Y3K RECIPES 第37期目录(2007年7-8月出版)

2 烹饪工作坊 Cooking Workshops
28 甘大厨4大粉王 Lovely Noodles by Kam Kitchen
33 面食药膳 Herbal Noodles
44 好吃秘诀不外传只与Y3K读者分享 Learning New Flavour Can Be Fun Sharing Food Pleasures with Y3K Readers
50 顶尖销售高手诚心服务赢人心 Success within Her Reach
57 烹饪比赛 切磋厨艺 提高厨艺 Discovering Hidden Talent Worth Their Salt
73 颂记牛肉丸 Robust Aromas of All Things Beefy
74 中华巷酿豆腐 Down Madras Lane Back AlleyGood Eat of Yeong Taufoo
74 发记西刀鱼丸粉 A boast of good fishballs and fish-paste skin wanton
75 新九如牛肉粉Beef Balls Heaven
76 廚房風水要項 Feng Shui In The Kitchen

9 Glamorous Food 名厨美食

☆ 炒白粿干Fried White Rice Sticks

10 Catherine's Kitchen 谢宋美私房菜

☆ 淋面 Lam Meen
☆ Mee Rebus Ala K. L. Style
☆ 砂拉越茄汁粿条Sarawak's Renowned Tomato Sauce Kwayteow
☆ 炒薯粉Fried Tapioca Noodles Hokkien Dish

14 The Master's Touch 大师授艺

☆ 荞麦冷面 Soba Chilled
☆ 面线汤 Mee Suah in Soup
☆ 鱼滑冬粉汤 Fish Cakes Glass Noodles Dish
☆ 意粉配辛辣酱 Spicy Spaghetti In Red Sauce Concocted With A New Twirl
☆ 意大利粉配鱼汤 Spaghetti Soup

20 Lady Oracle 名师风范

☆ 泰式凉拌冬粉Glass Noodle Salad Thai-style
☆ 客家炒粿条Hakka Fried Kwayteow
☆ 辣炒银针粉Spicy Taste Pin Noodles
☆ 福建炒面Braised Hokkien Mee
☆ 葱油香菇面Aromatic Mushroom Noodle
☆ 广式炒米粉Rice Vermicelli Fried Cantonese-style
☆ 黑椒乌冬面Black Pepper Udon
☆ 潮州蒸米粉Steamed Rice Vermicelli Teochew-style

28 四大粉王Have Noodles Will Dine

☆ 猪脚筋炒冬粉Special Pig's Tendons Fried With Glass Noodles
☆ XO鱼头米粉 Extravagant Fish-head Beehoon
☆ 苦瓜河粉Bittergourd Horfun
☆ 甘香福建面Trendy Kam Heong Hokkien Mee

33 现代大长今 HERBAL WAY TO HEALTH

☆ 山药乳酪义大利面Huai Shan Cheese & Pasta
☆ 意大利蕃茄磨菇面 Healthy Italian Pasta with Tomato & Button Mushrooms
☆ 南瓜营养面 Pumpkin Noodles
☆ 昆布海鲜面Kombu Seafood Noodles
☆ 红豆十全大补面Red Beans Fortifying
☆ 补肾乌发养生面Wholesome Noodles
☆ 四季玉米茯苓健脾干捞面 French Beans Sweetcorn Fu Ling Noodles
☆ 赤小豆罗勒（九层塔）水煮草药面 Red Gram Bean Noodle & Basil Stock
☆ 山药馄饨配玉竹粉葛汤Wai Shan Wanton Paired With Herbal Soup
☆ 蜜制南瓜子Honey & Pumpkin Seeds

44 好吃秘诀Generous Portions of Lip-Smacking Dishes

☆ 水粿 Steamed Kuih In A Bowl
☆ 焖炒冬粉Braised Glass Noodles
☆ 冬菇鸡脚 Special Sauce Braised Mushroom & Chicken Feet
☆ 海鲜意大利面 Seafood Spaghetti
☆ 蜜汁鸡Yummy Fried Saucy Chicken

51 喜悦的滋味 Food Bliss

☆ 无水焗羊角豆 Unique Ladies Fingers
☆ 黑椒鸡翅膀 Black Pepper Chicken Wings
☆ 脆口炸虾球 Crispy Crescent Prawns
☆ 补眼汤 Soup for Good Vision
☆ 鸳鸯鱼 Scrumptious Grouper
☆ 红烧元蹄 Red-braised Pig抯 Knuckle

57 厨艺大比拼 Cooking Competition

☆ 古早味排骨酸 Sweet & Sour Spare-ribs
☆ 印式香辣鸡Indian Flavoured Spicy Chicken
☆ 花开富贵 Flowers Bloom Forth
☆ 鱼芋相伴 Fish-head and Taro Dish
☆ 凤凰出塞 Chicken with Spices and Toasted Coconut
☆ 印度式咖哩鱼Fish Curry Indian-style
☆ 腐竹焖排骨Beancurd Sticks Braised with Spare-ribs
☆ 家乡焖花肉 Braised Belly Pork Hometown-style
☆ 印度式咖哩鸡Chicken Curry Lemak Indian-Style
☆ 花枝招展 Spicy Flavoured Chicken

68 面包飘香 Can You Resist These Baked Thrats

☆ 水蜜桃丹麦卷 Sweety Peach Croissant Twists
☆ 香料火腿丹麦面包 Spices & Ham Danish Bread Rolls
☆ 杂果丹麦面包 Mixed Fruits Danish Buns
☆ 绿茶丹麦面包 Green Tea Lotus Paste Danish Buns

廚房風水要項

罗木勇大师

自從開始在Y3K撰寫廚房風水至今，接獲許多讀者電話詢問，似乎很多人都開始關注廚房風水，但對於陳設多年的廚房又不知如何著手，要重新整頓又須考慮各方面問題，太大費周章了。因此，我根據大家的提問，在這則完結篇中，歸納出廚房風水吉凶宜忌的五項重點，以便Y3K讀者參考。

總括我的經驗，還是要提醒讀者，風水即是自然科學原理，廚房風水佈置以科學實用為基礎，風水學探究為依據，以朝全家大小身、心、靈健康的目標邁進。

廚房風水須注意的五大重點如下：

一)忘風但要通風:風水講求藏風聚氣，尤其是爐灶更是忘風，但是廚房則是要通風。
(I)風水學認為爐灶正對門口，以及灶後有窗口都不吉利。若依據科學理論分析，主要是擔心爐灶被門路的風，或者窗外的風吹襲；因為煤氣爐或石油氣爐萬一遭風吹滅，便會有泄漏煤氣或石油的風險，釀成大禍。早年用柴炭煮食，大風一吹，火屑四散，則易引起火患。
(II)廚房要通風
廚房是煮食的地方，烹飪時油煙、氣味都會四處迷漫，而未煮熟的食物殘渣也易腐爛發出臭味，導致細菌繁生。因此，通風在於廚房是非常重要的條件。通風的廚房不宜設在一個封閉的空間，也不可將廚房擺設在房屋的中間，都是不吉利的。

二)火水不容:根據風水學，廚房爐灶火氣旺，因此屬「火」，火水相沖，所以切忌與屬「水」的相關物擺設一起，會影響健康。
(I)廚房中洗碗盆、雪櫃、或洗衣機都是性屬「水」，所以爐灶不宜介在這些物件中間。
(II)爐灶不可設在溝渠上。
(III)北方屬水旺之方位，水能剋火，因此爐灶不宜設在北位。

三)廚房不宜靠近睡房:廚房是烹飪的地方，屬於燥火且油煙多的地方，根據風水學，油煙吸太多會損害健康；而用現在科學角度，睡房太靠近廚房則悶熱，散熱也慢，人因此易受干擾，心浮氣燥，精神不振，無法在自己的房中尋得安寧。
(I)爐灶不宜直沖睡房門
(II)爐灶不宜靠近睡房

四)爐灶宜坐凶向吉:「坐凶向吉」是廚房風水安置爐灶的四字 真言。所謂「坐凶向吉」，即爐灶設在凶位，但爐口或是火門（或稱開關）則向吉方。

五)廚房宜清潔明亮:廚房衛生是關乎全家健康的重要關鍵，因 此廚房風水最避忌雜物阻塞，導致空間狹窄、光線昏暗、凌亂潮濕不堪。在科學角度，這樣的地方便易造成蚊虫鼠蟻滋生，各類疾病細菌繁殖的溫床，對全家衛生構成威脅。廚房是火與水用量最大的地方，又得儲存各色各味的乾糧配料，要保持環境乾爽清潔又明亮，絕對不容易。因此，作為廚房的巧婦，在各方面設計都得要花番心思，才能一勞永逸解決問題。
（I）廚房設計宜通風且乾爽--對於現代寸土寸金的房屋設計而言，似乎是強人所難的要求。但是現在化的用具則可彌補缺憾，例如適當的採用抽風機或抽油煙機，便可以保持處理油煙問題，及使廚房空氣流通。
(II)廚房瓷磚採用得宜--瓷磚選色得當可以使廚房反射得明亮。因此選擇廚房瓷磚除個人喜好外，還得風水、健康和安全需求。瓷磚顏色宜明亮，可以將狹窄的廚房照得寬闊且明亮，可以減少蚊虫滋生。但明亮的瓷磚則表面不能太光滑，以免太滑足而帶來安全問題。此外磚的面積宜屬適中，因得小的方格瓷磚會有多接縫，是油煙累積的地方，不易清洗，而太大片的瓷磚則易滑足。
(III)定時整理廚櫃--當然現在的屋子大部份都有安裝廚櫃，所以不必我費舌多加強調，但是如果廚櫃儲存太多雜物，卻不常整理，同樣也會成為蟑螂、不明昆虫的溫床，導致廚房出現許多異味，乾糧用料和碗碟也不清楚，也會影響全家健康。

因此，在結束廚房風水系列報導前，我要強調的是，任何注重廚房風水的人，首先得盡人事的維持一個清潔乾淨的烹飪場所，然後再對風水中重要避忌的要項稍加注意，必要時作些方位整頓，基本上便可確保一家大小的健康，進而有足夠的精力追求各人心願，遂達萬事如願，心想事成的目標。

甘大厨4大粉王 Our Favourite Noodles

和我们一起到西藏旅游的团友蔡先生与太太对吃很讲究，味觉相当敏锐。一次聚餐中，他向我们推荐：「蕉赖六里村的甘大厨，甘香福建面一流！」

为了一探虚实，我们找一天到这间名字令人留下深刻印象的餐馆宵夜。原本想一试甘香福建面，结果被餐牌的苦瓜河粉所吸引。炒过而味道不太苦的苦瓜与拉过油的河粉是绝配，加上所用的调味料很讲究，用餐完毕后，我们给予这道面食高评价。

这间餐馆由兄妹俩合作经营，哥哥甘平光拥有十多年的厨艺经验，对选材用料一丝不苟；负责楼面的妹妹甘媄凤态度亲切，让人留下好印象。除了甘香福建面及苦瓜河粉之外，最受欢迎的面食非XO鱼头米粉莫属。真材实料加上一流厨艺，令生客变熟客，口碑相传之下成为这里的招牌面食。另外一道猪脚筋炒冬粉不会油腻，再一次证明甘大厨不是浪得虚名！

We got aquainted with Mr. K.C.Choi and wife recently as we travelled together to Tibet. This couple has good tastebuds and always enjoy reviewing tasty food. One of their strong recommendation is the Kam Kitchen, an eatery located in Kg. Cheras Baru, Kuala Lumpur. Accordingly, the version of Hokkien mee done here is splendid.

On the day that we visited this eatery, we thought of trying only the suggested noodle but in the end, we eventually got attracted to the other signature dish of Bittergourd Horfun. The gourd was in no way bitter and paired well with the fermented black beans and noodles. There is no compromise in terms of flavour, quality, truly a delicious eating experience.

This Kam family got involved with the world of cooking some years ago as big brother Ben has many years of experience handling the wok. He is noted to be rather choosy on the selection of ingredients. Sister is Alvina, who supervises the front division and takes a personal interest in their patron's needs. She has a rather cheerful personality which adds a plus charm to the otherwise plain environment. Apart from the Hokkien Noodles and Bittergourd Horfun, there was an exciting find of a real good Fish-head Noodle. We enjoyed a fourth dish of Pig's Tendons Friend with Glass Noodles. Rich in flavour but not in oil, it was tasty indeed. Where else can you get good food, good service without having to pay steep prices? What more, Ben is always ready to serve novel dishes.

KAM KITCHEN
No.6, Jalan 18, Kampung Cheras Baru, 56100 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 012-2905623, 016-2855958
Business hours: 11am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-11pm
Closes on 2nd & 4th Monday of the month.

廈門風味宴

峇株巴辖是柔佛州第二大都市，早期以针织业闻名。这里有三多：挂牌公司多、神庙多、餐馆多。

本地两位知名富豪绿野集团老板李金友及成功集团老板陈志远均在此出身。峇株巴辖目前有十七间挂牌公司及多间符合挂牌资格而尚未上市的机构，可以说这里是柔佛州商业活动最活跃的一个市。

这个地区大大小小有注册的神庙共有四百多间，没注册的不计其数。

峇株巴辖大街小巷均可看到各类餐馆、小食中心、街边小食、糕点专卖店等。

这里的华人以福建人为多，吃当然以福建菜比较受欢迎。在当地创业已经廿二年的「海洋酒楼」是一间响铛铛的名酒楼。由七月廿一日至八月一日，该酒楼特地邀请来自厦门的大师级名厨到此呈献厨艺，一连举办七场厦门风味晚宴，以让本地食家一尝地道厦门菜。

根据该酒楼市场董事经理余诗杰透露：「这次的目的在于餐饮文化交流、旅游、考察及互访。晚宴不忘慈善，所筹募到的义款将会捐献给本地华团组织及教育团体。」

我们出席七月廿一日首场晚宴，宴开二十席。晚宴共有十道菜肴，我们最欣赏其中以“银丝烩金钮”为名的一道菜。上桌时，以眼判断好似粗米粉炒三丝，卖相平平无奇。送入口中咬嚼，弹性绝对不是一般粗米粉所有，反而有点像吉胆岛著名的鱼面，弹口兼带淡淡的海鲜香味。面条、西芹丝、金针菇及辣椒丝与淡淡的调味相互配搭，形成一道不夸张却很可口的小食。

晚宴进行至中途，司仪邀请来自中国厦门的骆柄福大师上台为食客讲解当晚的菜肴所用材料，原来刚刚所吃的白面条是墨斗面。大师说：「将墨斗净肉搅烂之后加入盐、味精、蛋白及生粉拌匀，继续不断打至成泥状，色泽光亮及有弹性。将墨斗泥挤压成条状，放入温水中以慢火煮至熟即可备用。在炒之前，以滚水川烫，再与西芹丝、金针菇及红辣椒丝以中火快速翻炒，上碟前加入简单调味料及芡汁炒匀即可。」

如果对来自厦门大师的厨艺感兴趣，包括今晚还有五场晚宴等着你去品尝，你将会是最佳评审。

加影叉烧饭

加影是沙爹城，许多人为了一尝这里的沙爹远道而来，我们则是冲着这里的叉烧饭常到。

本地饭档的午餐，除了经济杂饭及海南鸡饭大受欢迎之外，烧腊饭是另一选择。烧腊店一般售卖的种类不多，叉烧、烧鸡、烧肉、烧鸭比较普遍，有些还卖烧排骨及烧鹅。数年前一位住在加影的朋友陈太向我们推荐：『加影的吃除了出名沙爹之外就是烧腊饭，别无其他选择。』

加影车多位少，中午时间，这个与大巴刹隔着一条河的两排单层小商店泊满汽车。小小的商业区内有熟食店、理发店、书报店、杂货店等。我们常光顾的烧腊店『叻计』就在中央的其中一个单位，与巴刹遥遥相对。这是一间不起眼的小饭档，玻璃橱窗后挂着几只烧鸡、烧鸭与数块烧肉，叉烧则放在一个大饭锅内，里面以烧烤时流出的油及酱汁浸着。大多数时间，留着小胡子外号“半只鸡”的老板双手不停地忙着斩鸡切肉，连头都不得空抬起。陈太说：『迟点来什么都没有，很快卖完。』

我们最喜欢这里的叉烧，去了皮的五花肉肥中带瘦，肥瘦比例介于三七。一条条深红色的叉烧外层烧得够脆却不焦，油亮结实，卖像很有吸引力。肥肉部分的大部分肥油已经烧出，肥肉弹性十足；瘦肉部分则烧得够结实却还保持湿润及有肉味，不会干涩，肉质幼滑一咬即断而不会黏满牙缝，我们对其烧烤功夫给予高分。叉烧酱当然也是重要因素，将甜而不腻的叉烧酱淋在叉烧肉及油饭一起享用，甚至青瓜都特别脆口。

虽然中午的太阳晒在锌板屋顶比较热，然而在店后依河而坐，一把十八寸的大风扇不停猛吹之下享用加影味道第一的叉烧饭，即使流了一身汗也甘愿。

Slip Into The Boot Of Europe - Italy (by Jenny)

Eeks… I’m going Italy!

Italy has always been on my mind since my first visit to Europe. Though very much tempted by the world renowned fine gourmet, branded luxuries and breathtaking sceneries, I always gave a pass on visiting this wonderful country each time I was in the vicinity. Why you may ask? My near phobia of the infamous hordes of professional pick pockets milling through the tourist districts, that’s why! The throwing of ‘babies’ in your lap while they snatched your purse, the use of chewing gum to pick your wallet while you were busy fending off harassment from another… you named it… I have heard of way too many horror stories to garner up enough courage to venture into this land on my own.

But alas, my long-time travel mates (my beloved sister and brother-in-law) finally managed to convince me that the temptation and allure of this beloved country is just too enduring to let go just because of these little blemishes. And so, prep with whatever anti-theft gadgets we can get our hands on and a bagful sense of street smart, to Italy we march!


Ma ma mia… I’m in Italy!

After a long 11 hours flight, I finally arrived. Apprehensive, I walked into the arms of Italy; Rome to be exact, the capital of the country. Looking beyond the doors of Fiumicino Airport, the sights that welcomed me is actually quite pleasant. Hmmm… this country may not be so bad afterall…

Roma

With a little jostling, we finally loaded our luggage into the coach and got ourselves organised. Soon, we are on our way to our first stop, the famous Colosseum.
The Colosseum was originally called the Flavian Amphitheatre after its builders, the emperors Vespasian and Titus, both of the Flavian family. Construction began around 70 AD and was completed in 80 AD. It seats more than 50,000 spectators. Its opening was celebrated with 100 days of games in which thousands of animals and gladiators were killed.
Though the amphitheatre has lost most of its past glory with time, with two-thirds of it badly damaged by fires, earthquakes and plundering (Did you know that The cathedrals of St Peter and St John Lateran, the Palazzo Venezia and the Tiber's river defences, for example, all exploited the Colosseum as a convenient quarry!), restoration work is nevertheless in progress.

I am not too much of a Colosseum fan, reminds me too much of the ancient Roman’s barbaric and violent ways. Instead the ice-cream stand nearby caught my eyes! Yum yum, my first attempt at Italy ‘cuisine’. True enough, the ice creams live up to expectation, creamy, soft and not too sweet… in short, yummy!

With my sweet tooth satisfied, we move on through the now bustling traffic to our next stop, the Vatican City.

Vatican, the smallest but one of the richest Catholic states in the world. One will never forget the sight of the St. Peter Basilica. Its light blue dome glittering under the sunlight... such compelling grandeur that I am lost for words.

We quickly joined a long queue to pass through security scan to enter the interior of the St. Peter’s Basilica, a catholic church. If you are zealous and fit enough, please do climb the 323 steps of stairs to reach the roof of the Basilica. You will be rewarded at the top with picturesque bird’s eye view of the St. Peter’s Square, with the Egyptian Obelisk at the centre that resembles a sharp needle pointing towards the sky.

Rome is literally littered with water fountains. The fountains which once served as water sources to the locals are simply too numerous to be counted. But THE ONE that all tourists will make an effort to visit will be the Trevi Fountain. The Trevi Fountain (Italian: Fontana di Trevi) is the largest — standing 25.9 meters (85 feet) high and 19.8 meters (65 feet) wide . It is the most ambitious of the Baroque fountains of Rome.
The Trevi fountain is elegantly decorated with intricate live-size marble sculptures. The centre piece being that of Neptune riding a chariot drawn by two (sea) horses. The famous Chinese Author San Mao once remarked the irony resemblance between Neptune and her late husband, Kher Si. Being a professional and renowned diver, it was a big sarcasm that Kher Si died in the embrace of the ocean while catching fish.

As the local folklore goes, it is lucky to throw coins with one's right hand over one's left shoulder into the Trevi fountain. The legend of the coin throwing is actually that if you throw one coin, you are ensured a return to Rome; two coins to get married; and three to get divorced! Like a true blooded tourist, how can I let go of such a good ‘lobang’, I tossed a coin into the fountain and kept my fingers crossed…

Around Trevi Fountain, the streets are flanked by coffee houses and luxury goods shops. A nice place to laze the afternoon away, but beware, the indulgement comes with a hefty price tag too. Come prepared with a well-lined pocket.

Pisa

It was raining when we reached Pisa. Three white buildings stood quietly in the Field of Miracles, resembling three pieces of toys miraculously created and placed by God for the appreciation and enjoyment of mankind. The baptistery was first to be constructed, followed by the cathedral and lastly the landmark of Pisa, the leaning tower. A mistake turns good; the architect should rest in peace if he knew that the uncalled for tilting of the tower has brought great fame and wealth to the country. As tour agencies cliché sales pitch goes, you have not toured Italy if you did not see the leaning tower of Pisa. Taking a photo with the pose of trying to push the tower back straight has interestingly become a favourite, widely copied among the photographers and visitors. But come to think of it, why push it back when it is famous because of its tilt? Anyway, as long as everyone is enjoying themselves, who is complaining right?

Alas, while everyone is busy playing Hercules, ‘pushing’ the Pisa Tower back in shape, this was the only place that I failed to take a photo. Not because of the rain, or the horde of umbrella sellers, my mood was as tilted as the tower because my sister and brother-in-law were under the weather. We took shelter in a coffee bar, contemplating flying home when we reach Florence, our next stop. Fortunately both got well after taking the medicines prescribed by a young lady doctor. A little blemish to our otherwise enjoyable experience so far, best forgotten.

Florence

Florence, home of the renaissance. A city of elegance, fine art and class. One can’t help but feel a bit more cultured while you busked in this beautiful city. Here, you will find the renowned art pieces of 2 grandmasters - Michelangelo and Leonardo Da Vinci. The Statue of David is the most commonly known masterpiece of Michelangelo. Like most tourists, I can’t help but to focus more on the lower body of the statue instead of his lively eyes. Not that I am being cheeky, but you can’t help but gasp in awe how real life David is! Michelangelo is a rare talent, with an eye for details. A true grandmaster who in his younger days spend nights in the mortuary to study the human anatomy, every vein every muscle, in great details. You can’t help but marvel at his skills and seriousness towards art.

Makan time! Tried the renowned Florentine Steak. But to my disappointment, the T-bone steak was so dry and hard that it could have chipped my teeth anytime!


Venice

Among all the cities that I have visited, Venice is the most unique of them all. She is special in many aspects. This city sits on a shallow lagoon, made up of many islands connected by bridges. According to the local guide, there are about 400 bridges on all the islands add up. Here, roads are replaced by canals.

A must to do here will be to take the Gondola ride. Most people claim that the Gondola ride along the canals is romantic. But it appeared to be a tad too artificial to me. The gondolas are highly commercialised, used mainly by tourists. Romance suffers an instant death as you step out of the Gondola as you will be greeted by a man with an outstretched hat, waiting for tips. But I have to admit that the sight of gondolas sailing through bridges, especially at the famous Bridge of Sigh is unforgettable and magically beautiful.

Have you ever worn a mask to a fancy ball? Imagine Romeo and Juliet, and the famous masquerade party whereby the star-crossed lovers met, bet you’ll know what the fuss is all about. During the carnival season each February, Venice will turn into a big party ground whereby almost all Venetians (and tourists of course) will don masks and party hard. The carnival atmosphere during this time is simply intoxicating, I was told by the local guide.

Though I missed the masquerade, one can still easily admire the unique Venetian masks in the many display windows here. Unlike our Chinese wayang masks, the Venetian mask is usually of a duller, more sober colour tone, elegantly decorated with feathers and simmers. Though I always feel that there is a somewhat tinge of sadness in each of them. I wonder why…

In any case, I am lost in my world of shopping. Those who find the masks too heavy and delicate to carry home can settle for a much lighter alternative of buying the mask ear rings or mask fridge magnets. Venetian glass is another signature of Venice, with Murano glass leading the pact. The colours in Venetian glass exude a whimsical feel, and are usually very, very colourful. The glass ornate range from classic to modern designs. Like all things in Italy, these beautiful glasses do not come cheap. However, be warned that if you do wish to buy some as souvenir, please do not procrastinate as you will not be able to find them easily once out of Venice.

Milan

Milan, land of Prada, Gucci and Ferragamo, a paradise for shopaholics like me! Well, as I always say, you are not a woman if you don’t shop. Here, you can be a living testament to the phrase ‘shop till you drop’, and if I may add, ‘or shop till you are broke’! The wide arrays of luxury goods here are simply too much to resist. Bags, shoes, clothes; whatever you can imagine/wish to have! I suddenly feel sorry for the men who are paying the bills. Well, someone has to pay, and didn’t they say that women are to be protected and pampered? Milan is definitely THE PLACE to be pampered in!

Italian cuisine - Pasta Mania

Talk about Italian cuisine and the all so familiar spaghetti will pop into mind.

The Italians love their pasta. And amply, they have come up with all sorts of shapes and sizes and textures to make this Italian staple more interesting and appetising. Pasta is often served as starter on the Italian menu. The Italians usually prepared them in a simple but delicious way, from the usual tomato base sauce (note, the Italians usually cooked the sauce from fresh tomato rather than our plop out of can tomato puree), to cream sauce, wine sauce or just simply toss in olive oil with some herbs. For the big eaters, it is wise to finish all the pasta because the main course is usually of a smaller portion. But no worries, you will not go hungry if you are still unsatisfied after all that. There is always abundance of bread served as appetisers on the table for you. Despite the hefty size of the locals, they prefer a healthier alternative of dipping the bread in olive oil to applying butter/margarine on the bread. To me, dipping the bread in oil is welcomed as the oil will help to soften the bread’s texture, which otherwise requires very strong teeth to munch!

Ciao Italy

My whirlwind tour ended way too soon. Just as I was easing up and getting into the feel of Italy, it is time for home. The trip is as enjoyable as I can hope it will be. In the short 10 day, I am fortunate to catch a glimpse of the many facets of this lovely country, the highbrow shopping districts, the avant garde cultural cities, the raw majestic remains of the Roman empire, and last but not least, the peaceful but endearing country side. Love them all! I do hope to visit this country again in the near future (still keeping my fingers crossed for that coin I have invested in Trevi fountain) and this time, I will get a picture of the leaning tower! Wait a minute, did I mentioned about those professional pickpockets I was gripping about in the beginning? Well, thanks to our lucky stars, we have been most blessed not to have any encounters with them, but merely to see them in action at a safe distant. All in all, the trip has been memorable, the beautiful sights, the wonderful company. Won’t you help me keep your fingers cross for my little wish lying at the bottom of Trevi fountain?

As saying goes, Rome was not built in one day. So don’t try to discover all of Italy within 10 days of tour!

古晋小吃

每天早上，陈记面饭小食馆对面的“春园茶室”是一间有两间店面宽度的双层独立式老店，店前停满车辆。有数个售卖粉面的摊档，每一个档口的小贩皆忙着烫面。店内虽然座位相当多，然而却难以找到空位。

我们最喜欢这里的辣沙，售价由三令吉起，加料另计。两个大钢桶煮得滚滚冒烟，其中一个作为烫粉面用的清水，另一个则是椰浆咖哩汤底。一碗米粉或面条份量不多，烫熟后再淋上咖哩汤底，汤底表面浮着浅浅的红油，味道相当清淡而不油腻，辣味及酸味不太重，是砂拉越独有代表性小食。碗内四尾鲜虾烫得熟度恰到好处，尤其是上面洒少许芫荽苗，非常清香，这些芫荽苗令我们异常怀念。

如果不喜欢酸辣的面食，这里还有其他面食的选择，有猪肉粉及砂拉越干盘面。干盘面也是砂州的著名面食，好像本地的干捞云吞面一般，只是面的颜色是净色，没加入黑酱油，如果喜欢辣味，可以将一小碟辣椒酱加入拌匀，面条弹口，百吃不厌。除了面食之外，还有薄饼及烤面包，薄饼的皮薄馅多汁，真才实料不取巧；面包烤香后从中一分为二，再搽上咖椰及牛油，外脆内松，烤面包的安蒂则忙得从没停过手。

晚上宵夜不妨到古晋露天巴刹，也称铁塔巴刹，因为巴刹屋顶有一座铁塔而得这名。这里有数间卖“烧米”的小摊档，而其中一间营业接近半个世纪，专烧米闻名的老字号点心店“新光兴”生意非常好。烧米外形像烧卖，唯内馅以马鲛鱼肉、猪肉及沙葛取代烧卖所采用的鲜虾及猪肉，味道偏甜。

在古晋想找古早味点心，来这里试一试吧！

再谈烹饪评审

年尾我们原本忙得不可开交，康城开幕当天我们还是在百忙之中抽空出席，因为负责筹备“创意汤丸”比赛的 Christine 告诉我已经约好另外两位评审一起讨论有关评审细节。结果当整个开幕仪式结束后还不见这两个评审出现，不等了，离开时十一点多。

比赛当天讲好一点半讨论，耍“大牌”的评审竟然下午两点多才出现，藉口竟然是塞车，这种理由未免太烂了吧！这两个大牌评审私自定下评审准则：口味50分、香味20分、颜色与呈现20分、清洁度10分，合共100分。这些标准我没异议，问题是分配制度。每个评审皆评口味，其他三种评分则一个评审只评一种，理由是以示公平，出发点是好，然而她们已在私底下一个选香味，另一个选颜色与呈现，根本不懂得尊重别人，不论对参赛者或评审都不公平。

我们从事饮食杂志五年多以来，据实报导是我们的原则。除了采访国内外大小餐馆及小食档之外，每期皆专访不少专业烹饪导师及特约厨艺专家，自己也会呈现数道食谱。虽然尝尽各类食物却不敢自称美食家，自认对口味的认知肯定相当中肯。对于评分标准我采用一种比较公平的中线评分法，50分由25分评起，口味包括味道、口感、用料搭配等，比较好的加分，比较差的则扣分，这种评分法即使面对数百名参赛者都没问题。

汤丸熟不透、超硬、味道超咸及超甜的竟然被另两位评审打四十多分接近满分，是她们的味蕊出问题，还是……？既然对方一直倚老卖老，我也不客气地问她们基于什么理由给这么高分，这两个“大牌”快快拉开话题。

这次的重点是创意，最可笑的是“大牌”台湾婆评审对创意的定义不明确，主次不分的离题成品也当创意！

烹饪评审

在半山芭邵氏大厦的余仁生康城最近开幕并推行一系列活动，其中一项与马华妇女组联合主办的“创意汤丸”比赛吸引廿三名参赛者参与。在主办当局盛情邀请之下，我担任当天的评审之一。

廿三名参赛者当中女性占二十名，男性只有三名，其中最年轻的男性参赛者只有十三岁。令人佩服的是其中一位女参赛者带了三个孩子来，最小的孩子只有数个月大。比赛时间只有半个小时，参赛者虽然不是专业厨师却各出奇招，希望在这次比赛中突围。除了一般圆形的汤丸还有心型汤丸；甜的口味之外还有咸的及酸辣口味。颜色除了糯米原色之外更是五颜六色，但值得欣慰的是鲜少采用色素，大多是采用瓜果的天然颜色。馅料及汤底更让参赛者发挥想象空间，大部分采用天然中药材入味。许多参赛者对摆设也下足工夫，盘碗及装饰一丝不苟以求达至尽善尽美的地步，这种参赛精神值得赞扬。

在我们三个评审讨论之际，其中一个只有英文名的台湾婆 Lois Lee 说：“这些参赛者是业余的，我们不必太认真。口味五十分，我们由四十分开始打分。”这么荒唐的评审方法是我担任多次评审以来第一次听到，廿多位参赛者分数在四十至五十分之间，那口味差的与口味好的之间如何得以区别？还有离题的呢？

另外更加好笑的是原本三位评审各自评完之后应该将分数交由计分员计算评审结果，台湾婆与另外一个姓林却自称许阿姨的评审竟然联成一线要我将分数唸给她们听，甚至要我将分数改掉以符合她们的要求。一点规则都不懂，简直岂有此理！

评审应该各有观点，如果倚老卖老以为年纪老就有权威，除了贻笑大方，可怜了无辜的参赛者！

日式自助餐

去年年尾一位来自新加坡的食家读者陈笃汉带领四十名代表到JW MARRIOT酒店参与“世界金门大会”，向我们推荐设于三楼的日本餐馆“上阁屋”。陈先生告诉我们：“食物种类有两百多种选择只收RM88++，很值得吃！”

平安夜带了孩子到这里用晚餐，先在门口付费。这间餐馆平时用餐时间无限制，周末及假日则只限于两个小时。领了桌号89号，侍者带领我们穿过好像迷宫般的餐厅。范围好大，顾客好多！

这是日本餐馆吗？简直是国际美食超级市场。除了日本餐之外，还有中餐、韩食、西餐、印度餐等。料理食物的地方分为饮品区、寿司及刺身区、点心及火锅区、煎炸区、烧烤区、中式煮炒区及甜品区七个开放式厨房。

我们先以寿司打底，数名厨师在这开放式厨房忙着现场制做各类食物，可以看到所用的材料很新鲜。接着刺声以海鲜居多，生蚝、鲜带子、鱼虾蟹等任你拿，喜欢吃生蚝的人，在这里已可拿回所付代价。

特别向你推荐的是点心部的纸火锅帝皇蟹，中餐部的上汤象拔蚌及上汤七星斑，西餐部的芝士焗生蚝，煎炸区的炸南瓜及芋头。

恩不佬的家乡 - Kapit

两年前到诗巫，在喜来登酒楼初次听到“恩不佬”却没机会一睹其庐山真面目，餐馆老板说这种鱼有钱都未必吃得到，在拉让江上游的原产地加帛补获即被木山老板买完。去年在美里终于亲眼目睹一条这号称最贵的淡水鱼，只是已经冰冻多时。

这回重临诗巫，特地安排多一天时间要Vickie带我们到“恩不佬”的家乡--加帛，一了我们两年多的夙愿。Vickie联络她住在当地的朋友阿顺充当导游，提醒我们别抱太大的希望，因为这种鱼已经濒临绝种。

凌晨五点起身，步行五分钟到达码头，乘坐快艇在这条马来西亚最长的河流拉让江逆流而上。黄澄澄的江面辽阔而平静，江岸两旁不时可以看到依班人的长屋，花了三个小时到达加帛。

上岸与阿顺会合之后，我们抱着一丝希望到巴刹寻觅恩不佬的芳踪，鱼档有土族摆卖捕获的巴汀及白须公，正感失望之际突然看到不远之处一条少见的鱼摆在摊位上，一问之下果然是我们此行目的恩不佬。

土族以网补获的恩不佬长约两尺，重达六点三公斤，每公斤售价三百三十令吉，这条鱼售价超过两千令吉，正等待识货又付得起的食家收购。两千块，我们舍不得！

在恩不佬的家乡摸一摸这尾大鱼，拍拍照后就心满意足了。

安哥林

在繁忙的城市里能够偷得半日闲，与三几好友坐下一杯咖啡在手闲话家常是一种奢侈；在购物中心走累了想要在这寸金尺土的都市找一间即保有传统风味，环境又舒服的咖啡店更加难以寻获。安哥林洞悉城市人这种即要传统又要舒服的心态下产生，结果带起一阵热潮，然而许多朋友慕名到珍珠白沙罗IKANO广场的安哥林品尝咖啡后抱怨：「不过如此，这里没有城市中最好的咖啡，不明白为何生意却如此好。」

一天为了寻找旅游资料的书籍而到这座广场的大众书局，将车泊在下层后由电梯缓缓而上，购物中心底层看到这间即新潮又传统的咖啡店。店铺采用许多柔和灯光配搭鲜艳橙色的设计，极有吸引力；最吸引人的是一张以传统咖啡壶为主题的大灯箱占据大半片外墙，以新颖手法推销传统味道虏获购物者的心。

冲咖啡头手是一位穿着圆领白色塔标T衫的中年汉子，传统味道十足。点了咖啡、面包及乌达后，我们坐在店门口走廊坚实的木板凳上，前后左右坐满顾客，三大民族济济一堂，白领阶级、贵妇师奶、阿伯安哥都有。

咖啡香气由传统青花瓷杯内飘出，吸一口热气腾腾的咖啡，让它在口里转一圈后吞下，传统咖啡味让脑海中不期然忆起童年陪父亲到咖啡店喝咖啡的情境，我想一杯咖啡能够勾起怀旧情怀的力量就是安哥林让顾客一再光顾及自然为他做宣传的魅力所在吧？！传统白面包不是炭烧，外层烘得不够松脆，胜在海南咖椰够香醇，加上两粒半生熟鸡蛋就是简单的一餐。

除了咖啡与面包，以香蕉叶包裹的娘惹式乌达味道相当道地，安哥林推出的套餐吸引许多上班族光顾，椰浆饭是马来西亚人的最爱，配搭马来厨师煮的咖哩鸡，餐桌上所见盘盘见底，味道应该不错吧！

最近在双威购物中心寻找冬装，意外地发现这里也有一间安哥林分店。食品种类无需太多，生意做开了，成功模式可以不断被复制，这是自创品牌魅力所在。

森州家乡美食

饮食顾问施文康大师上任后第一个任务是向我们推荐森美兰州各地美食，适逢该州中华大会堂25周年纪念，在中华中学举办一场「家乡美食添乡情、华团同心贺堂庆」纪念晚宴，邀请我国房屋及地方部部长拿督斯里黄家定主持开幕仪式及赠送锦旗于参加单位。

该筹委会主席刘志文表示：「这次美食晚宴获得本州25家餐馆参与其盛，并获得七县48个乡团、24个单位及个人鼎力支持，总共推出113道各具特色的美食佳肴供来宾品尝，间接协助政府推动美食旅游业。」

餐馆除了汝来隆盛佛跳墙推出福州菜之外，还有明佫、喜来登、好运、永香楼等多间大酒楼各自推出招牌菜。各乡团推出具家乡风味的美食，客家美食有梅菜猪肉、算盘子、酿豆腐等，福建家乡菜少
不了碱水糕、卤猪脚及肉丸，海南会馆推出羊肉汤，东安会馆推出少见的红甜糖不甩，…。地方性特色美食则有叻务（LABU）肥叔面粉糕（Y3K第8期）、知知港的狗仔鸭（Y3K第32期）及马仔橙（Y3K第23期）、瓜拉庇劳的焖水鱼（Y3K第13期）等。

猪杂汤

林若辉律师向我们推荐在Tun H.S. Lee路 RHB银行前的猪杂粥很好吃：「我的孩子只喜欢这里的猪杂粥。」他提醒我们晚上七点多才开档，十点即卖完。

平时晚上我们懒得出门，为了一尝这档猪杂粥，我们特地找一天到吉隆坡老街。到达时间九点多，白天热闹嚷嚷的街道没什么行人，偶尔有巴士在这里停泊外，车流量不多。在银行对面的老店全打烊，骑楼下五脚基有两个档口还在营业。我们兜了数圈都找不着泊车位，索性将车停在档口前的巴士站。

小贩过来问：「两碗？」我们反问：「猪杂粥？」

「猪杂粥去旅行，休息一个礼拜！我们卖猪杂汤。」白跑一趟，即来之则安之，就来两碗猪杂汤，另加两碗小饭吧！

猪肚、大肠、猪舌、三层肉、猪红、咸菜、姜丝将一个大碗装得满满地。咸菜汤一直滚着，淋入猪杂内保持清澈，第一口汤感觉酸中带咸，味道恰到好处，很开胃。对大肠味道敏感的老公在汤中感觉到大肠味，但在还能接受的范围内，结果连不碰大肠的他连大肠都不放过。猪杂都预先烫熟，够软却依然有咬劲，虽没吃到猪杂粥，却没令我们失望。

和老板闲聊，他透露：「我们四档在这里卖了三十多年，卖牛肉面的颂记搬到同排店内营业，猪杂粥就在我隔邻，还有另外一档卖虾面。」听他这么介绍，可见他们在同一地点营业皆能相安无事，让我忆起在中华巷的经验，小贩各自为政划清界限，食客不能误坐枱椅，否则会不客气被赶的自私行为，简直是两个极端。

这里虽然没有舒适的环境，但是在昏暗的五脚基吃街边小食，是另一种有钱买不到的怀旧享受。

文德甲巴丁鱼粥

由吉隆坡到文德甲约60公里，只须大约两个小时的车程，印象中这里是以伐木及农业为主的山城。廿多年前的文德甲与今天的文德甲市区变化不大，只是多了一些商店，老字号的商店及会馆依然那么熟悉。

与大众银行及马来亚银行为邻的文德甲美食中心是本地人用餐的好去处，十多个小贩摊档，售卖的食物种类不下六十种供选择。除了大众化的面食及糕点之外，烧鱼、肉骨茶、炒饭等应有尽有。最吸引我们的是各种家乡味十足的名堂命名的小食档，叫了一碗福建肉羹，一大碗米粉足够两个人吃的份量，拌数片以薯粉包裹烫熟的瘦肉、芹菜、青葱、红萝卜丝、香菇。第一口的感觉是麻油味很重，肉片幼滑及所选用的米粉弹性佳，只卖RM3.50。另一道推荐小食是巴丁鱼粥。众所周知，彭亨河盛产巴丁鱼，文德甲距离彭亨河不过十公里，要尝各种河鱼不成问题，然而以巴丁鱼煮粥却相当少见。糜烂滚烫的广东粥内放入切丁的新鲜巴丁鱼，拌上姜丝、炸油葱、芹菜及青葱，味道不输白鲳，每碗RM5。

另外一间值得推荐的小食店就在唯一的百货商店后。下午闷热的天气踏入龙乡阁，看门面以为是一间品茶的茶馆，然而进入店内还没看清环境就被一股臭烟味熏得受不了，在吉隆坡冷气餐馆严禁吸烟，在这里却不受限制。沿着古老的雕花旋转铁梯上二楼，幸亏烟味无法升到这里。店内摆了不少艺术品，顾客中有不少是一双双拍拖的马来青年。在这里品茶用餐，价格大众化，只是别对食物的要求太高，不失为一个消磨时间或与朋友聚会的好地方。

沙登酿豆腐

最近公司加入两位来自而连突的“大蔡”与“小蔡”两姐妹，觉得这样叫她们比较亲切。应征时了解她们对出版业没有经验，胜在态度诚恳又乐于接受意见。

杂志截稿日期已过，工作却还有大半未完成，出去吃饭都在赶时间。《东方日报》的专栏的截稿日期已过，助编少敏不断催稿，抽空与“大小蔡”一起到沙登找吃，她们常到这里的新村吃火锅。车在新村兜了数圈又来到刚介绍过第三区的“沈野味”，正冲这家野味店的三叉路泊满大小车辆，不远处另一家村屋挤满人，老公说：「就这一家吧！」

锌板屋热气逼人，前面厨房占了大半边，另一边摆放十张大小形状不一的餐桌，每张桌子都坐满人。屋内另外摆了五张桌子，我们脱了鞋子进屋，站在一旁等待空位。

家庭式经营的客家酿豆腐，父母与女儿在这里经营了二十年。没有招牌，由于店主有四位貌美的女儿帮手，熟客都给它取了一个名字—“四千金酿豆腐”。各种新鲜酿好的鱼丸、豆腐等由屋后厨房捧到屋前炸。即使是午餐顶峰时段，出菜速度很快，点好菜不到五分钟饭菜就送到。以烧猪骨煲的花生汤火喉十足，白豆腐够嫩滑、炸过的酿红辣椒种子清理干净味道不辣、以姜汁及调味腌的纸包鸡看样子很腻却不腻。

东西新鲜、出菜快、环境亲切，或许这些是吸引人之处吧！

龙趸粥

龙趸是一种巨型石斑鱼，一般常见的石斑鱼约八百克至两公斤重，而一条龙趸起码三十多公斤，重量是一条石斑鱼的廿倍以上。深海渔民偶然捕获龙趸都能够成为新闻，将龙趸卖给餐馆售价可观。在某些地方，龙趸是受保护鱼类。目前，在吉胆岛养殖成功的龙趸鱼需要花四年的时间才能出售，其风险不可说不小，吃龙趸不再是一种可遇不可求的机遇。养殖龙趸鱼价钱比起深海龙趸低得多，然而还是相当的高。

龙趸由于价格高昂体积庞大，在大酒楼都未必有卖。吉隆坡甲洞靠近TESCO，工业区附近新店铺的“旺记”虽然才开张不久，却已是声名远播，许多嗅觉灵敏的食客有办法找到这间藏身在工业区的餐馆。老板许松林说：「我们最强调材料新鲜及口味清淡，顾客除了本地人之外，还有来自日本、香港及欧美等地的顾客。」

龙趸最珍贵之处在于其厚达五毫米的鱼皮，含有丰富的胶质，弹性没想象中那么强，柔软得来带有少许黏性，这种口感迷倒许多喜欢吃鱼的人，最适于中老年人进食。切成薄片雪白的鱼肉稍微粗糙却相当鲜甜。

本籍潮州，在渔村长大的许老板大胆创意，将难得一试的龙趸鱼煮粥，即使是一个人来都能够享用，将贵族鱼平民化，每碗卖RM18.90。以高汤作为汤底，煮滚后加入稀饭及切片的龙趸，上桌前撒些芫荽，清淡无比。另外一道大受欢迎的“药材龙趸汤”以杞子、当归及党参煲龙趸鱼肉、龙趸鱼头或龙趸鱼边任选，味道像炖水鱼汤，清补而不燥，小盅RM40，供十人享用的大盅售价RM80。

问起生意如何？许松林告诉我们：「一天可卖两三条龙趸。」

《日日有食神》拍摄大马美食

2004年9月及11月，香港食神梁文韬带了两个香港美食团到本地多间大酒楼品尝本地招牌菜，对大马美食念念不忘。七月中，韬哥由香港带来一支TVB摄影队旧地重游拍摄大马美食，将本地美食介绍给香港观众。

自小住在渔港的梁文韬尝尽天下鲜味，不但懂得吃，也懂得分析。他所主持的其中一个电视饮食节目“日日有食神”，收视率极高。这一回一行6人的小队伍悄悄到东马沙巴及中马各地品尝美食之后，在隆盛酒楼老板施文康带领之下到南马寻找大自然生态美食。

文康告诉我们：「韬哥冒险精神及好奇心很重，我们与摄影队伍六个人抬着走他进入森林小径，简直上气不接下气。这次森林探险发生一件有惊无险的事件，其中一段是韬哥在舢板上垂钓及煮食，一个不小心失去平衡，‘噗嗵’一声跌下河中，吓得我们几个人毫不考虑即刻跳下河里救他。」

可以想象，腰围不只42寸的梁文韬掉入河里的惊险镜头，幸亏在他们几个泳术不俗的英雄又抬又扛之下，终于把他给推上船内，度过难关。虽然发生意外，信心却未摇动，敬业乐业地继续将整个过程拍完。

7月28日最后一天，在汝来隆盛佛跳墙酒家取景，除了邀请数家报社采访之外，食神指明一定要邀请Y3K杂志。席间，食神说：「香港旅客对大马旅行餐有段难以忘怀的怕，不论到南马、中马或北马，每一餐桌上一定会有一道金凤鱼/红非洲鱼，如影随形餐餐如是，他们为这条鱼取名“千里追踪鱼”。这次到大马主要拍摄自然生态美食，将本地值得推荐的美食推荐给香港人。大马有很多好吃的河鱼如水马骝、白鲶鱼、巴丁文中以及诗巫的“忘不了”鱼。当然，隆盛的佛跳墙及酒糟东坡肉最教人难忘！」

代表厨王协会亚洲负责人的梁文韬同时强调：「一般人认为厨艺最重要的观念是错误的！我认为好的美食，新鲜食材占40%、好的酱料30%、思想及创意15%，而厨艺只占15%。」

脑中装满食经，口中滔滔不绝如数家珍，这就是食神梁文韬。

峇株吃一回 - Batu Pahat

到峇株巴辖，联络上当地的地头蛇阿国及阿源这两位海景酒楼大厨师，他们在百忙之中抽空陪我们，充当美食大使为我们介绍该地一些著名小食。

早上八点随他们到一个住宅区内享用肉骨茶，阿源说：「这里的肉骨茶味道不错，曾经上过报。」心想上过报并不等于好吃，何况整间店铺冷冷清清只得我们一台顾客；然而这两位爱吃的大厨师知道我们此来目的，不至于介绍一间没代表性的食物吧？

送上桌的药材汤在瓦煲内沸腾，散发出一阵淡淡的清香，材料除了排骨、猪肚、猪肠、花肉之外，一般上另外煮的猪腰及猪肝也被加入在内。肉骨茶的味道虽然不错，我却比较喜欢另外一道薑酒炒猪腰。处理猪腰清洗过程绝不能偷工减料，必须彻底将白膜清除，否则烹调工夫再好也难以将残留在内的臭味消除，令人难以入口。以麻油将薑丝爆香后加入切块的猪腰，用猛火快炒至七分熟，加入盐、糖、黑酱油及蚝油调味，上碟前赞入黄酒，打一层薄薄的芡汁使各种味道黏在外层光滑的猪腰上。上桌的猪腰熟度恰到好处，香脆可口，黄酒的香醇将脆口的猪腰衬托得恰到好处，令人回味。

用过早餐我们回到海景酒楼，这两位在厨房里做惯大酒席的大厨师为我们表演数道受欢迎的小菜，包括新加坡游客最爱的啰惹鸡。浅尝各道食物之后已经接近中午，阿源需要准备晚上的酒席，留下阿国陪伴我们。不让时间留白，我们即刻出发到附近一间友族开设，却大受华裔欢迎的亚里亚叁鱼头专卖店。以大锅煮酸酸辣辣的亚叁汁，淋在一个个巴掌般大的鱼头上，午餐时间挤满顾客，八成是华人。鱼头煮得太熟，亚叁汁味道平平无奇，生意却排第一，这是命水吧！

阿国向我们介绍：「每逢假日峇株比平日热闹，吸引许多由外地来拜神的旅客，其中一间在海边的大伯公廟最出名。」

在市区沿着河岸前往海边途中，我们在一个简陋的小码头停车，原来一艘出公海两天的拖网渔船刚回来，一箩箩、一桶桶各类海鲜被吊至岸上，是个大丰收。由公海捕获的鱼类不下数十种，码头工人熟练地将各类海产分类、过磅、记录后放入冰桶，乱中有序。这次的渔获有不少长相奇特的深海鱼，让我们大开眼界，大约一寸的小墨鱼晶莹可爱。捕获两条少见的文鲨，其中一条马上被一个闻风而至的老饕买下；另外一条长约六尺的文鲨则是船主留下自己享用。

取道米那务固路续程前往海边，沿途所见除了甘榜木屋之外，神庙可谓五步一间，多不胜数。距离峇株市区六哩路程的石文丁是一个小渔村，车子开到一间神庙前已到路的尽头。我们在阿国带领下穿过村屋，步行大约一百米来到这间拥有百多年历史，面向大海最热门的大伯公庙。庙并不大，经过无数次扩充及美化之下已变成本区一个重要的景点。两个鱼池共养七尾长约六尺的巨龙鱼，这些鱼是赌徒眼中的财神爷，信徒相信这些鱼游过来让你摸一摸，横财滚滚而来。阿国蹲在一个大鱼池前，口中不停叫：「巨龙来！巨龙来！」巨龙鱼果然乖乖游过来让阿国摸。

来到渔村，免不了吃海鲜。这里一间以「船屋」为名的海鲜店由年轻的东主担当厨师，印尼华侨太太负责楼面。夫妇俩在渔村由一间小店开始，生意越做越好后搬迁到这间建在沼泽上的新店。这里除了海鲜新鲜及煮法简单之外，调味及火候控制恰到好处是关键。我们每人吃一条十足新鲜约三百克重的潮州蒸鲳鱼、弹牙的酸辣大明虾及一咬即烂的竹滩炒小辣椒。摸过巨龙鱼到这里一面吹海风看海景，一面享用海鲜，你肯定会留下一个难忘的回忆。

由石文丁渔村出来，我们到米那务固海边参观十五世纪由暹罗军队在石堆中凿出的一口井，这也是峇株巴辖名字的由来。经过五百年，人事已非，留下的只是历史。往峇株市区的回程看到路边一间三层楼高的燕屋，亚国告诉我们这是一间投资养燕失败所留下的建筑，看到这栋被废置的建筑，养燕存在的风险不言而喻。

回到市区，我们到从事糕点专卖廿多年的「新新」，名气响至新加坡，当地电视台特地到这里拍摄报导。由于隔两天就是农历六月十九观音诞，店内除了平时售卖的五颜六色各种糕点之外，一托托新鲜出炉的寿桃排列整齐等待顾客前来选购。

亚国说：「喜欢炖品的人绝对不能错过峇株这间炖品店。」两间单层店屋打通的水记炖品已经营业二十多年，深受讲究养生的华人喜爱，一天卖出三百多盅各类炖品，其中大部分是熟客。陈德贵告诉我们：「炖品共有六种，包括药材炖黑鸡、甘榜鸡、排骨、水鱼、田鸡及十全炖番鸭，其中最吃香的要算水鱼汤。」一碗炖汤配一碗芋头饭，令许多熟客欲罢不能，定时报到。

时间是傍晚六点多，阿源忙完了酒席，即刻陪伴我们到一间傍晚才开档的炸年糕档口，这也是阿源这位大厨师大力推荐的峇株小吃。在此摆档二十年，额头高高的郭福城站在一个大搪瓷盆前，盆里金黄色的油烧至滚烫。只见他将两片切得薄薄的芋头夹着一块年糕，放入已经调味的面糊内沾至通透，再夹起放入滚油中炸约四分钟至金黄色。炸年糕外皮酥脆，味道咸中带香，夹杂芋头的清香及年糕的清甜，是喜欢煎炸小食者的最爱。

我们再越过马路到对面小食档，档主陈细连夸口：「我这里的六味清汤敢说第一，许多在外地工作回乡的年轻人对此非常怀念。」六味清汤的特色是味道不太甜、用料齐全、火候十足，此外他的豆沙饼非常香脆，可见其对待顾客的诚意。

渡过紧凑的一天，在不到十二个小时内吃了许多餐，车上多了一大箱海鲜及许多小吃，这就是出外靠朋友的收获吧！

邦咯岛 - Pulau Pangkor

开斋节几天假期，到那里度假？去邦咯岛吧！

印象中的邦咯岛除了江鱼仔、鱿鱼及沙爹鱼之外，水上娱乐活动多姿多彩，是一个抛开烦恼，让阳光与海水洗涤身心的度假胜地。

如果时间许可，自己驾车由吉隆坡出发，取道南北大道至美罗，在“品珍”吃一碗云吞面及闻名的芋角。继续往安顺方向出发，到达时不妨进入安顺市区拍摄百年斜塔才继续行程。由安顺到福州人居多的士兆远大约20分钟车程，沿途可以看到不少以店屋改装的燕屋及稻田芭。由士兆远到红土坎大约十分钟，这里也是我国的海军基地，海上停了不少军舰。将车停在新建的多层停车场，步行三分钟即可到达码头，一路上有许多售卖船票、沙滩配备及海产食品的商贩向你招生意，度假味道越来越浓厚。

乘搭渡轮来回收费RM10，十五分钟到达邦咯岛新码头，许多粉红色的客货车在出口处等待游客光临，这些都是岛上的德士。码头边就是邦咯岛市区，你可以在这里购买各类土产。交通工具除了德士之外，可以租小汽车、电单车或脚踏车代步，游遍整个邦咯岛。累了？随兴坐在椰子树下吹海风，看着夕阳缓缓西下，渔船随着海浪拍打而起起落落，弄潮的人还舍不得离开沙滩继续嬉闹，你也会被感染得身上每个细胞都会笑！

夜幕低垂，找个地方落脚歇息，岛上高级酒店不多，平价旅舍则多不胜数。这里除了美丽的沙滩让喜欢水上活动的人尽情玩乐之外，渔产非常丰富。晚餐时间到了，如果喜欢吃海鲜，这里有多间海鲜楼供选择。海风吹送下，在华联学校对面的“椰林”原野式海鲜餐馆内用餐没有压迫感，你可以选择海鲜火锅或者让厨师为你推荐的招牌菜如炸粿条、辣沙蒸白鲷、酥炸鳗鱼、甘香炒花蟹，材料新鲜加上厨师富有创意的煮法，让人胃口大开。

早晨的空气与吉隆坡的乌烟瘴气相比之下异常清新，让人头脑清醒。自小在这里长大的吴鹏雁充当导游，带我们到街上品尝各种充满古早味的早餐。他说：「这些童年拌着我长大的小食，至今味道依然保持一致。」

首先，我们到市区街边一对年长的夫妻以及一个中年汉推着三轮车打包虾米猪肠粉，吴先生强调：「他们在岛上卖了五十年的虾米猪肠粉。」然后到附近的一家以“面线面”著名，制做手工面三十多年的“陈金溢面家”参观制面过程。过后到离开市区约三公里的旧码头“吉灵丸”，吴先生特地在街边一间卖辣沙的小档前停下买了两碗面，我们一人捧着一碗面穿街过巷到旧码头前，到一间没有照牌的咖啡店用早餐。

早晨一杯香醇的咖啡是许多老顾客不可或缺的日常习惯，吴先生告诉我们说：「这里的咖啡最香。」喝了一口咖啡之后，我们急不及待打开打包的虾米猪肠粉，没有一般猪肠粉的弹性及幼滑，胜在每一口都可感觉到米浆磨成的米香味，别处肯定找不着。辣沙所用的濑粉好像没上色的面条，好在没弹性，证明没加入额外的化学品。一包包以香蕉叶及报纸包装的椰浆饭、烤得外干内软的鸳鸯面包（咖椰及牛油）、新鲜的北马乌达都令人垂涎三尺，一个早餐吃得我们非常满足。

在邦咯岛漫步不必担心掠夺匪、没有飞车党、也看不到变态佬。每逢庆典，在外发展的岛民不忘回乡与家人团聚或探望老朋友。当这里唯一的华小需要资助，不顾得失的校友毅然扛起责任，任劳任怨出钱出力办活动。小小的邦咯岛除了风光明媚、美食处处之外，最难得的是充满人情味。

故乡寻古味之（二）--士多利乌达

乌达是娘惹小食之一，除了在娘惹餐厅可以享用到这味小食，本地某些大排档、美食中心（食物不一定美味）及路边摊也可看见售卖乌达的小贩。

一般上乌达是以西刀鱼或马鲛鱼作为主要材料，将鱼肉打烂后参入浓椰浆、鸡蛋、发疯柑叶及调味料，再加入打烂炒香的香料如葱头、蒜头、黄姜、蓝姜、香茅、红辣椒及石古仔拌匀。北马乌达以香蕉叶包裹，里面置一片山佬叶后包成长方形或锥形后蒸熟，份量较大，可以供两人以上食用；而南马乌达则以少许乌达料置于两片椰叶之间包裹成荷包状后，放在火炭炉上烧烤至熟，一个人可以吃超过十枝以上，这种乌达在麻坡最为普遍。

在新山有一间我们光顾了超过二十年的乌达专卖店，三十年前在直不佬路交通警察局前开始营业，1986年搬迁到交通警察局后士多利路一间单层角落店屋至今。看着他由小孩子开始即在店内帮父亲捧茶烧乌达，目前已经超过三十岁的第二代老板莊伟山告诉我们：『鱼肉乌达卖40仙，鱼头乌达50仙，一天可以售卖数千枝，顾客三大民族都有。』

每次回到新山，早餐一定想起这里的乌达。喜欢这里的乌达是因为将现烧现卖，烤得有点焦的椰叶打开一刹那，看到涨鼓鼓的乌达冒起一阵淡淡的蒸气，一股带有椰叶的清香新鲜乌达味引得口水不听使唤往外直流。烤得熟度恰到好处的乌达与一般椰叶乌达不同之处是：一般上的乌达包得扁扁，烘烤时水份大多被蒸发；能够让我们念念不忘的乌达吸引力在于只有一般乌达长度的一半，然而厚度却有一倍，烤熟时还能保持其湿润度。乌达与炒米暹是早餐的最佳配搭，两枝乌达配一口米暹，吃完一盘米暹时桌上椰叶已堆成一座小山，每桌如是。

莊伟山提醒：『星期二休息，早上六点卖到中午十二点。』迟来者只好望门兴叹。

故乡寻古味之（一）--士古来鸭肉

离开新山到吉隆坡定居转眼已经十六年，一年难得回故乡数次，然而对她的思念并不因此而变淡，尤其怀念她的小食。

趁这趟学校假期，我们一家四口回乡度假，探访久别的双方父母亲。离开大道收费站转入旧路，距离新山市区大约还有十六公里是士古来，一个逐渐繁荣的小镇，这个地方因鸭肉而闻名。

1971年开始，「士古来鸭肉」创办人佘绍恒在士古来新村开始售卖潮州卤鸭，许多人远道而来只为一尝这里的卤鸭，生意越来越好。1992年买下并迁到位于马星花园现址的两间并联双层角头商店，虽然地点偏僻及隔邻陆续跟风开了几间卖鸭肉的餐馆，然而老顾客依然不离不弃到这里捧场，生意更胜往年。

创业三十多年后的今天，老板依然采用创业时的配方及传统工序，确保现在所卖的鸭肉与以前的水准一致。选用的鸭子鸭龄、饲料及饲养场地，卤料、火候及时间掌握都是关键。鸭子肉质结实而不肥腻，一点骚味都没有，非常难得。老板刀工一流，将卤得淡褐色的鸭子取骨后切得厚薄一致，整齐地摆在铺上青瓜的盘上，再淋上少许卤汁，古老味十足。将一片薄薄的鸭肉沾上带点酸味的自制辣椒酱送入口中，鸭肉鲜润多汁，甚至老人家都咬得烂。

一碟卤鸭、一碗卤味清汤、配上淋了少许卤汁的饭、面或粿条，四个人用餐不过廿多零吉。不会因你是生脸孔而乘机抬高价钱，以诚待客也是这间餐馆得以声名远播的因素之一吧！

尝卤鸭时不仅钩起我们的回忆，以前来这里吃卤鸭，还处于拍拖时期，现在再到这里吃卤鸭，则多了一对青春期的儿女陪伴。期待下一回同一地点，三代同堂叙述当年情。

吴哥窟古文明再现 - ANGKOR WAT

Carrier - Air Asia operates from the new airport in Siem Reap.

Tonle Sap

Swift paddling at Tonle Sap lake in a basin as this little child poses for money from tourists.


A mother paddles the sampan with a child on one hand. Note the floating pigs’ sty.


A bumboat laden with grocery stuff for sale.


Can you imagine a floating chapel.


A common sight on the streets of Siem Reap.


Local transport like the motorised ‘tut-tut’, with a row of seats down each side are the usual mean of getting around.

The Market

Ikan haruan/snakehead fish alongside small fishes embedded with roe.


Ticket to visit the sites.

BAYON

Six to a group is the ideal number for travelling along this stretch of the country.

This is the south gate, the wall that encloses Angkor Thom.


South Gate of Angkor City



The Bayon built 800 years ago has many famous carvings on the outer wall.


Vivid scenes of life in the 12th century of Cambodia are carved on the wall of The Bayon.


Smiling face of Avalokitesvara, identified as a god in Hindu cosmology.




Rebuilding the damaged structures and trying to restore them to their former grandeur.





Angkor Wat

Crossing a moat to reach the spectacular monument of Angkor Wat.






Biggest gallery of carved reliefs ever inspired and conceived by the human mind.


Ascend the steps to the central sanctuary.


Standing on the top level of the central sanctuary, you see interlinked galleries.




Scenes of country life

Banteay Srei (967A.D.)



A ‘lucky’ child who gets to stretch after lazing around.


A club formed by these amputees,all victims of landmines.


Pre Rup (961A.D.)



Ta Prohm

Main entrance to the temple.


Nature and manmade fabled temple have joined as one. Roots strengthen the facade.


Termites play a serious role in the invasion of the structures.


Tree roots enclosing a deity’s image.



Tomb Raider has filmed certain scenes here.


100 feet length roots of this huge tree has interwoven with the temple.

Window On Angkor Wat
26-07-2006 (Wednesday)
My travelling companions besides Richard were Jenny Liew and her relatives. Together, the six of us took a 10a.m. flight on budget carrier - Air Asia to reach the new airport of Siem Reap, meaning "Siamese Defeated" in Cambodia. It took only two hours of flying time. Local time showed 11a.m. which makes Cambodia time one hour behind Malaysia. Foreign currency of choice is the US dollars. I made a small change of US$20.00 (RM74) at the airport money exchange counter. In turn, I received only 72,000 Riel. Needless to say, you get a better rate in the local town as US$1(RM3.70) should fetch 4,000 Riel. Never mind, this is only for small expenses.

Cambodia was once closed to the outside world for two decades and only open contact after the civil war ended. The story of this country cannot be complete without mentioning the wonders of Angkor Wat, a most charming place to visit. UNESCO has listed it as a heritage site, which now assures the future of this temple of the lost city. This listing has drawn in many tourists and further helps to bring in tourism money.

During the months of December to April, it is a tourists season as temperature hovers around 20°C rather pleasant. From May to November, the monsoon brings heavy rains and high humidity. Koreans form the main hub of tourists arrival, followed by the Japanese. But Europeans and Americans come here the whole year round. Apparently, Malaysians rank twelfth in tourists' volume.

Jenny had pre-arranged on the internet with the local tour agency to show us around on a 4 days 3 nights trip at a cost of US$45 (RM166.50) per person excluding flight, hotel and meals.We were lucky to have an English speaking guide - Ang Rong Oum to meet us at the airport. He took us for lunch at Borey Savaan Restaurant in town. The menu is set in US dollars. A beer costs US$1.50 (RM5.50), a soft drink at US$1-$2. This is quite costly as a glass of carbonated drink come to RM4-RM8 as I revert to the calculator. Plain fried rice costs US$2.50(RM9.25) and Lap Lok - Black Peppercorn Beef With Sunny Side -up Egg And White Rice costs US$3.9 (RM14.50). All in all, the long division bill came to US$11.40(RM42.00) per couple for something very plain and fairly simple.

Tonle Sap Lake
Siem Reap is a pit -stop town as it is not far from Angkor city and Tonle Sap Lake, both linked to the Siem Reap River which has the richest source of freshwater fish. Our hotel was located in the city and after a quick set in, we left the hotel, to be introduced to the "Floating Village"at Tonle Sap Lake. The journey took 30 minutes along laid-back red earth tracks. What greeted us was a colourful sight of a floating village with a huge population of 4,000 families living on spartan houseboats, big and small. These boats packed the lake and waters are rather stagnant.

The lake houses all activities associated with daily living. It suprises me to see a floating chapel, school, a junkyard to repair boats, floating basketball court, fish -farms and even floating pigs' stys. Only drinking water is being sourced from the exterior market, all dishwashing chores, laundry washing and bathing rituals are conducted with the same water from this lake. This gave us an insight of a very glaring side of poverty here. They do not even have the basic rights against ill-health as it is extreme ugliness in areas of hygiene. The stagnant waters can tell a moving story.

It rained very heavily around 4.30p.m. but did little to drive away the hot spell. Most of the roads turned muddy as we travelled back to the hotel for a short rest. Dinner at 6.30p.m. was served at Tonle Sap Restaurant. An impressive buffet was laid-out at US$10(RM37)per person. Gracious to the end, a traditional dance performance was staged by some dancing artists.

27-07-2006 (Thursday) The Market
The sun shone ever so brightly at six in the morning. After a simple breakfast at the hotel, we rode a ‘tut -tut’ to view the market. Well, this place has nothing very interesting to offer. I saw an abundance of freshwater fish here. There are tons of ikan toman, ikan haruan(snakehead), eels and small fishes with lots of roe. Some food stalls scattered around sold ready -cooked food. The sugary stuff I bought tasted horrible as it was awfully sweet. Colourful silk scarves were on display in the morning market. It is rather weird that fresh pork stalls faces dry foodstuff stalls. Jars and jars of preserved fish roe were available but all of us were trifle cowards to try any.


27-07-2006 (Thursday) Angkor Thom/ Bayon
After the market visit, it was only 9.30a.m. We were to visit Angkor Thom - a city built 800 years ago. It houses the former royal palace and the temple of Bayon. A lot of restoration work has been done by the UNESCO team as they try to rebuild and restore damaged structures. Each visitor is charged a fee of US$20(RM74) per day as the money, if any, officially goes to help preserve and upkeep the monuments. There are four gates, namely East, South, West and North. We entered from the South gate through a moat and was greeted by bas-reliefs on both sides of the wall.

At the entrance to the inner court is an exquisitely carved four-faced deity sculpture. The ‘lost city’ has become such an attraction, popular with tourists worldwide as the famous carvings depicit vivid scenes of life in the 12th century and all have been well-preserved. In the centre of the city of Angkor Thom lies the temple of the Bayon. It has 49 towers projecting 100 over carved smiling face of Avalokitesvara, a god in Hindu cosmology. It is an extraodinary construction as the past Khmer king had utilised such great labour force to carry out these huge projects in order to glorify themselves and their kingdom. It is worth a visit as the charm has retained considerably well.


27-07-2006(Thursday) Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat is the only temple that faces westward and at its finest in the late afternoon. About 2 Km away from Angkor city, it is encircled by a 190 metres wide moat with a stone pavement of 475 metres for crossing over. The central temple complex consists of five towers with two beautiful lotus ponds on both sides in front of the stupas. To reach the central sanctuary , you have to ascend 30 over steep terraces of stony steps. As reaching the top reviewing stand, you feel stunned by the fabled temples of Angkor, one of humanity’s most beautiful architectural achievements. This depicts how great the past monarchy and Khmer civilization had been during the 12th century.

28-07-2006(Friday)-Banteay Srei
About 40 Km from Siem Reap lies a beautiful former queen’s resident knows as Banteay Sreil. It was built much earlier in 967AD and the project is a scaled –down version of Angkor Wat. It is noteworthy that the majestic sculptures are still very fresh looking. The setting is a mystical experience as we hear music being played by a group of landmines victims. These buskers play under the trees hoping for some donation from tourists. You see many limbless people all over Cambodia as they are victims of landmines planted in rice fields and roads by the former Khmer Rouge guerrillas.

28-07-2006Friday--Ta Prohm
The three most magnificent temples of Angkor are the Bayon, Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm. We have visited the first two and today with a scorching sun on our backs, we shall see Ta Prohm, which used to be overgrown by the jungle. Part of the film , ‘Tomb Raider’ was set here and people became fascinated with what they saw on the movie screen. The trail leading to the temple site was cool unlike the soaring temperature outside. There was no buzz of a single mosquito and the dampness had caused all the solid rocks to be covered with green moss.

Many huge trees approximately 100 feet tall have roots sprawling all over the temple. Probably it helps the façade from falling apart as the roots weaved themselves all around the structure. It is impossible to take in the details of this site in a short visit but obviously conspicuous are structures invaded by termites. For the travellers with sufficient time to explore properly, Cambodia captivates the spirit as the visit has done good for my soul, education and pleasure. I felt re-energized after a short break as I prepare to leave for home tomorrow.

General Facts To Know :
1. Travel agencies in Siem Reap are all in their infant stage. Do not expect too much as they have not passed their teething problems, unlikely to bring tourists on good trips. There is still a long way to go before all complications can be sorted out as the industry is young.
2. Do not change too much local currency. US$1= 4,000 Riel. Just change US$20 for small transactions.
3. Tickets to visit all sites costs US$20 (RM74) per day. For a three days ticket, it is at US$40 (RM148) and a seven days ticket come to US$60 (RM222). Daily buffet starts from US$6-12 (RM22-44).
4. Keep aside US$25 for departure tax to be paid at the airport.
5. Bring along personal medication and panadol, anti-diarrhoea tablets, plasters, tiger balm medicated oil etc...
6. An umbrella comes in handy during the rainy spell.
7. You need good walking shoes and a pair of strong legs as all the sites are vast.
8. A local tour van can ferry only six persons together with guide and driver. Do not go in an assorted number where you cannot fit into one vehicle. Six in a group is the best number.


暹粒

26-07-2006（星期三）
早上十点，我们一行六人搭乘以廉价机票打响名声的亚洲航空(AirAsia)直飞柬埔寨(Cambodia)的一个小镇暹粒(SiemReap)。柬埔寨的时间比本地慢一个小时，花了两个小时的航程，到达暹粒当地时间早上十一点多。在机场以20美金换72000Reals(当地兑换率US$1=4,000Reals)。

或许你和我一样对暹粒这个名字感到很陌生，然而对吴哥窟(AngkorWat)应该有印象吧？吴哥窟是一个充满神秘感的千年历史古迹，暹粒河将这遗迹与现今朴素的暹粒镇串在一起。吴哥窟被联合国教科文组织(UNESCO)纳入为世界文化遗产之后，吸引许多游客到此观光。

十二月至四月是旅游旺季，干爽的气候介于20℃左右；五月至十一月是雨季，天气炎热而潮湿，下午通常会下雨。在这个多雨季节，韩国游客人数名列榜首，日本游客次之。全年游客人数整体上欧美游客最多，马来西亚游客人数在亚航的促销之下目前排名第十二。

Jenny通过电邮预先与当地旅行社安排好，四天三夜的导游加司机费用为每人US$45。一个懂得英语的导游『荣』Ang Rong Oum到机场接了我们之后，带我们到一间专为游客而设的『金京城大餐厅』(Borey Sovann Restaurant)用午餐。这里的环境比想象中干净，餐单价格一律以美金计算。啤酒US$1.50，汽水价格介于US$1-2之间，折合马币RM4-8，好贵！简单的炒饭US$2.50(RM10)，黑椒炒牛肉配荷包蛋及白饭US$3.90(RM16)。一顿简单午餐两人花费US$11.40(RM45)。

办妥入住酒店手续之后，我们开始在暹粒的首个行程，到东南亚最大的湖--『洞里萨湖』Tonle Sap参观水上人家的生活。客货车离开市区后越走越偏僻，车后扬起一阵阵红尘，路旁尽是简陋的茅屋。大约半小时车程到达目的地。四千户水上人家将屋子建在大大小小简陋的船上，湖水污浊却生机勃勃。除了住家之外，还有教堂、学校、修船厂、篮球场、养鱼场、鳄鱼场、甚至是养猪场。除了饮用水在外购买之外，洗碗、洗澡、洗衣服等所用的水竟然从这污浊不堪的湖水汲取，卫生程度令人担心。

下午四点半下了一场大雨却无法驱闷热的天气，路上充满泥泞，我们回酒店休息。傍晚六点半到达洞里萨河餐厅(Tonlesap Restaurant)享用丰富的自助式晚餐，每人花费US$10(RM40)。一面用餐，一面观赏穿着传统盛装的舞蹈员表演阿普莎拉戏剧(Apsara Dancing)，让我们对这里的传统文化有初步认识。

27-07-2006（星期四）--巴刹
早上六点天已大亮，我们在酒店用过简单早餐后，乘搭＂嘟嘟＂(Tut-Tut)到巴刹以了解这里的民间生活。热闹的巴刹和本地的巴刹情况大同小异，只是这里的淡水鱼产丰富，多个摊贩售卖活生生的多曼、生鱼、鳗鱼及不知名的多卵小鱼。熟食档前坐满顾客，甜品味道甜得令人难以入口，七彩缤纷的丝巾布料应有尽有，猪肉摊与杂货店相对，一罐罐以不同腌料腌制的鱼卵等待有心人的青睐，我们没勇气一试。

27-07-2006（星期四）--巴扬寺/吴哥城
九点半往吴哥城/大吴哥(Angkor Thom)出发，一天的入场券US$20。八百年前是吴哥王朝的宫殿及以大石建成的神庙，目前虽然已成废墟，联合国组织正为这些废墟展开整修。吴哥城分为东、南西、北门四个进口，我们由南门(South Gate)进入吴哥城，步行经过两旁尽是石雕的护城河，再穿过一座四面佛头的城门，我们进入这昔日的王城范围。不远处是吸引全世界游客到此的巴扬寺(Bayon)。栩栩如生的石壁雕刻依然保留得相当完整，将当时的热闹繁华情景一一呈现给现代人。最令人惊叹的是看到这里的四十九座尖塔上共一百多面佛陀的微笑与沉思，在佩服古人的伟大建筑精确之余，不觉被这些慈爱的笑容感染，心里有一丝丝的感动。

27-07-2006（星期四）--吴哥窟(Angkor Wat)
吴哥窟又称小吴哥，吴哥寺，距离吴哥城大约两公里。周围以190公尺的护城河围绕，步行在475米以石板铺设的通道，进入一座围绕主要寺塔的回廊，参观长800公尺，全世界最大的回廊浮雕。走出回廊，又是一条长长的石板路，通往中央寺塔。吴哥窟的主要寺塔共有五座，塔前左右各有一个方形莲花池塘。一重重的梯级将我们引导至这五座高塔前广场。仰望眼前高塔，必须手脚并用才能爬上这三十多级陡峭的石级。

到达吴哥窟最高处，四周景色尽入眼帘。对这12世纪的伟大建筑，我们又一次惊叹。

28-07-2006（星期五）--班蒂丝蕾(Banteay Srei)
距离暹粒四十公里的班蒂丝蕾又称为女皇宫，建于967年。与吴哥窟比较而言规模小得多，然而在红色砂岩上精细的雕功却没被时间摧残，依然表现出当时石匠的功力。一群地雷受害者组成的乐团在树下演奏以换取游客打赏。

28-07-2006（星期五）--塔普伦寺(Ta Prohm)
塔普伦寺因一套《盗墓者》＂Thomb Raider＂而闻名。上午的阳光非常猛烈，走在通往塔普伦寺的小径，周围被参天古木围绕却没有蚊子的踪迹，空气异常清新。散落满地的大石被厚厚的青苔包裹着，百尺高大树的气根与寺庙纠缠一起，已经分不清是大树支撑着寺庙使它不至于倒塌，或是寺庙顶着大树使它得以向上伸展。一些寺庙的地基被白蚁堆挖空倒塌，一些则被纵横交错的树根撑开。我们在这里又一次被这大自然与古代伟大建筑所形成的奇景给震慑着。

注意事项：
1）暹粒旅游业尚属起步阶段，基本设施尚未成熟，抱着游览历史古迹的心态则能够物超所值；打算购物或怕吃苦者最好别去。
2）兑换率为US$1=4,000Reals=RM4.00（大约），起程前在本地换成美金，到当地只需换少许柬币Real（约US$20）即可。
3）最大开支是游览古迹的入门票（1天US$20，三天US$40，7天US$60）及吃饭（一般自助餐US$6-12）。
4）记得一定要留US$25离境税，离开时在机场缴付。
5）医药设施落后，一定要携带药物如：头疼药、风痧丸、胶布、万金油等。
6）如在雨季则建议带雨伞或雨衣。
7）游览古迹大多数时间需要步行，锻炼好脚力。
8）六人一组是最佳组合，租一辆客货车（包括导游及司机）最划算。