2009/10/23

到巴冬看候鸟吃亚参辣椒鱼 See Migratory Birds Try Parit Jawa's Ikan Assam Pedas


巴冬位于柔佛州麻坡市区以南约15公里The little town of Parit Jawa in Johor lies approximately 15 km south of Muar.


巴冬海口渔村 Entrance to Parit Jawa Pantai Leka

渔村入口处 Welcome to this fishing place


村民捕鱼为生 Everyone seeks a living in fishing

年尾涨潮时,海水会淹上岸 Every year end, waters splash up ashore during high tide

小秃鹳(候鸟) Lesser Adjutant (migratory bird)

制做鱼笼的村民 Villagers making fish traps

谢宋美、黄美淋、刘绍荣及ALAN
Catherine with the restaurant bosses and Alan

亚参辣椒鱼Ikan Assam Pedas dish


传统潮州菜“旺鱼” Traditional Teochew "Wang He"

乌达乌达 Otak-otak, the famous snack

“蚝煎蛋”是传统潮州小食 Or-chien is a Teochew snack

煎龙舌Fried sole fish

苏冬虾臭豆 Sotong and Prawn Fried With Petai

到巴冬看候鸟吃亚参辣椒鱼

巴冬位于柔佛州麻坡市区以南约15公里,巴冬海口渔村离开巴冬市区约一公里。这渔村虽然很小,然而却因为这里是柔佛州三个候鸟栖息地之一,每年到这里过冬的候鸟吸引不少爱鸟一族到这里观赏及拍摄它们的生态,小秃鹳是他们的焦点,每逢海水退潮时,这些小秃鹳在沼泽中觅食,小螃蟹、小鱼、水蛇等都是它们的食物。

除了观赏候鸟,巴冬另一闻名之处在于“亚参辣椒鱼”,这里以“亚参辣椒鱼”作号召的餐馆不少于十间(不包括友族经营的餐馆及摊档)。

ALAN向我们推荐一家历史悠久(1980年开始),号称当时首创“亚参辣椒鱼”的“海景亚参鱼餐室”。目前由第二代传人刘绍荣负责。味道酸中带辣的“亚参辣椒鱼”大多以红鲷或马友鱼作为主料,以白饭配搭最适合,让嗜辣的食客欲罢不能。除了“亚参辣椒鱼”之外,喜欢辣的食客绝对不能错过乌达乌达这种麻坡最受欢迎的小食,以及令你回味的苏冬虾臭豆。不辣的食物有“蚝煎蛋”传统潮州小食,“煎龙舌”等。

老板特地拿出一道“不卖”的传统潮州菜“旺鱼”。他说:「处理这道菜需要三天。将鱼、三层肉、菜脯、辣椒干、小辣椒、亚参、蒜头及参末一起放入锅中再加水,开大火煮滚后转小火焖三至四个小时,熄火盖着焖两个小时,再重复步骤六次才完成。」

这道菜没有卖像,然而鱼肉口感好像罐头鲮鱼般,没有入口即化,独特的香味在口中爆开。三层肉入口即化,蒜头则吸收了鱼与肉的精华。这道特色准备时间长,老板一般只是煮了让自己解馋,有时则会拿出招待长客。如果到这里用餐,别忘了问看有“旺鱼”吗!


See Migratory Birds Try Parit Jawa's Ikan Assam Pedas
The little town of Parit Jawa in Johor lies approximately 15 km south of Muar. We explored the coastal part known as Parit Jawa Pantai Leka situated one km away from town. Well, the latest product in the tourism map here is the range of migratory birds making yearly homage as they escape the harsh cold winters of home. Each season sees many species of birds. Incidentally, three spots in Johor have become their environmental sanctuary and all being the ideal places for bird watchers.

You can't deny the beauty of the lesser adjutant as these birds clot the shallow waters during low tide, wading in to seek food. Baby crab, small fishes or even sea snakes make a fanciful meal for them. But regulars to this area claimed that another attraction should be the famous dish of "Ikan Assam Pedas".

All over, we counted nothing less tan 10 shops selling the same dish. The number excludes eating shops and stalls managed by Muslims. Alan Chong of Wonder Way recommended us to try this dish at certain restaurant nearby. Strait View Restoran which started its operation in 1980 must be the pioneer here serving this dish. Now this place is run by the second generation of the family by Lau Sio Yong.

Ikan Assam Pedas came with a real sourish and spicy taste. Main ingredient is a choice of either a red snapper or macke ral (kurau) and obviously the gravy goes well with white rice. Another snack unique to the community is the Johor "Otak-otak". Other simple dishes of "Sotong and Prawn Fried With Petai" or the non-spicy snack "Or-chien" were both tasty. Another simple snack plate of traditional Teochew food "Fried Sole Fish" made its way to our table.

Mr.Lau offered us his special dish cooked and reserved for family members, extras may be sold to regular patrons. It can be classified as a heritage Teochew food as this fare cannot be easily found anywhere. Cooking "Wang He" is a time-consuming process as the total preparation and cooking time needed three days. Let me take you through the process. Fish, belly pork, choy poh, dried chillies, cili padi, assam pulp and garlic were combined into a pot filled with water. Contents were cooked over high heat till it reached a boiling point. At this stage, the heat will be lowered and contents continued to be braised for another three to four hours. The heat will be turned off but the pot remained covered for another two hours. The whole tedious process will be repeated six times more.

While I tasted the dish, it cannot be called spectacular but rather as something unusual. Fish tasted similar to canned dace (leng yee), not very soft in texture but the aroma filled my mouth. Belly pork has come to a melting degree but it was the garlic that won my heart. It soaked up all the fish and meat flavours.

If you fancy something out of the ordinary, ask the Laus. We will try it again, next time perhaps...!


海景亚参鱼餐室 STRAITVIEW RESTORAN
PKA 52-A, Parit Jawa Pantai, 84150 Parit Jawa, Muar, Johor.
Tel: 06-987 5388
Close on Mondays (except public holidays)