2007/09/12

猪与猪肉 Versatile Meat of Pork



猪与猪肉

除了素食者、回教徒及猷太人不吃猪肉之外,猪肉是全世界最普遍的肉品之一。中国是猪肉的最大消费国,此外,生产的猪肉产品占全世界生产总和46%以上。最近当地的猪只患上蓝耳病导致猪只产量大减,价格节节上扬。德国猪脚世界闻名,多年前在歌德广场前一家猪脚专卖店,一人一只猪脚的大餐令我们毕生难忘。印尼回教徒占大多数,然而在峇厘岛,兴都教徒占90%,这里的烧猪当街摆卖。生活在柬埔寨暹粒洞里萨湖的船民与水上猪寮让我们为这里的卫生条件担忧。

本地区的养猪业风波不断,养猪场管制越来越严格,范围缩减至只允许在四个州的指定地区养猪,最近马六甲巴也明光以外的养猪场被令关闭更闹得沸沸扬扬。数年前到瓜拉登嘉楼采访,看到在这个回教徒占大多数的城市,猪肉竟然可以当街摆卖,这出乎我们意料之外。一位友人曾经说过:「华人是吃猪肉的民族,餐桌上不能一日无肉。」虽然在讲究保健的今天许多人已经不吃肉,然而这句话却是许多人的心声。

曾经在沙巴州住过一段时日,一天傍晚经过卡达山族的村庄,夕阳照射下一只刚生产不久的母猪拖着笨重的身体不慌不忙地越过马路,一群小猪争先恐后跟在后头。大小猪只和其他家禽一般饲养在屋子周围,没有围栏自由自在地走动。不远处一群小孩赤着上身在玩游戏,妇女抱着孩子在高脚茅屋前喂奶。我们为这温馨的景象停下车子,直至太阳下山。

余庚财与谢宋美

Meaty Topic

This versatile meat of pork has excellent flavour and is commonly eaten throughout the world. Vegetarians avoid all meat and pork taking is forbidden among Muslims and Jewish people. Yet, it still plays a major role in many cuisines. China is the world’s largest consumer and producer of pork. It provides about 46% of the worldwide demand. A recent spate of diseases has turned prices up. Pork is getting pricier too as this is likely to surge in conjunction with coming festivals. When we toured Germany some years ago, we had a memorable feast of consuming a pig’s knuckle each. The country is very famous for this kind of food. As we look at other countries like Indonesia which is nominally a Muslim nation yet there is actually an amazing diversity of religions. At least 90% of the population in Bali are Hindus and very often, small roasted pigs are on sale everywhere and used as food offerings. We have seen how pigs are housed on boats plying the Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia. Pigs are hardy animals and do not need a large area of land on which to graze. As the pig has long been an important source of food in communities throughout Asia, settlers will always raise it for their meat despite the living conditions.
Recently the issue of relocating pigs has been a hot topic and led to some commotion as pig breeders have failed to maintain good husbandry practices. The enforcement authorities and state government in Malacca has issued another deadline to these farmers to relocate the extra number of pigs. Well, pig farming is more of an environmental matter as even in religious state like Terengganu, we have seen how pork is openly displayed for sale. The Chinese consume a lot of this meat and has been their favourite meat for uncounted centuries.

On a visit to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah some time ago, we saw a mother pig leading her young brood to cross a road. They walked leisurely and at the village, both big and small pigs together with other domesticated birds were having their own fun. Young shirtless boys had fun with their form of competition and mothers sat around the verendah. Many were seen breastfeeding their babies. It was sunset time and it was glorious to discover their culture quality and the essence of the communities as it has its own distinctive lifestyle.

We just sat back as sunset made a good picture and memories are made of these simple, happy hours.


Richard Er & Catherine Chia

Y3K Recipes

优生优孕




東方中醫藥進修學院院長
彭國民中医师
☆ 廈門仁德醫院醫學顧問
☆ 南京中醫藥大學國際教育學院馬來西亞招生主任
☆ 雪隆留華中醫師公會會長
☆ 香港華夏國際中醫學院客座教授
☆ 江西中醫學院馬來西亞教學點主任
☆ 廈門中醫藥促進會副會長(海外)



中医优孕与优生
一个健康、聪明的孩子是每一对夫妇、每一个家庭的愿望。这就是医 学里所说的优生。这也是国家和民族繁荣昌盛之所在。

优生的前题是优孕。优孕是一个全新的生育新理念。在精子和卵子结合那一刻前的3个月,甚至6个月,就开始了孕育准备,因此生命的孕育不仅只是10个月。夫妇能在优身、优时、优境的最佳状态下,让最健康最富活力的精子和卵子结合,父母双方的精良基因如容貌、智慧、个性、健康就能传给下一代。


优生的目标不仅为胎儿诞生时的身体健康,还包括通过各种孕育行为,对新生儿日后的端正品行、事业有成、幸福生活的长远期望。配偶的选择、胎养、胎教、交合禁忌,以及受胎时日等方面是优生的孕育行为。


中医认为不同的人有不同的体质,对胎儿有不同的影响。因此准备怀孕的夫妻若能经由中医师调整体质,使身体阴阳平衡,不仅提高受孕品质,更为胎儿提供优良的生长环境,孕育出的胎儿更加健康,因为当父母的智力与健康都处于最佳状态,所孕育的子女,其脑力与体力也都更将优秀。
根据世界卫生组织(WHO)报告指出,一对有正常性生活的夫妻,一般受孕机率为90%,当然,受孕率会跟着年龄的增加而减退。20~30岁是生育力最强的时机,大部分这年龄层的妇女,是不需要特别的调理。至于需要调理体质的妇女,若是体虚气弱、禀赋不良,中药调理是一举数得的善策。

高龄、流过产、卵巢功能不良妇女孕前须调理体质。


妇女过了30岁,就倾向高龄产妇,尤其是35岁之后,正常妇女的卵巢功能衰退得更快。但如果无法提早生育,就要注意不要有人为的破坏,最严重的是堕胎或流产,对生理结构及内分泌系统,有可能造成万劫不复的机会。中医将小产与流产后的妇女,视同生过宝宝的体弱妇女,正常产妇坐月子要1个月,小产妇女则要百日, 或至少3个月。


当女人的卵巢功能衰退很快,或素来卵巢功能不良者,一定要避免月经期间使用机械检查子宫;万一不得已,甚至必须作人工流产手术时,一定要找合格的医师,否则很容易将子宫内膜推向输卵管和腹腔中,造成原本就已体虚气弱,手术后再加上气滞血瘀的体况,雪上加霜,导致不孕症的机会大增,就很可能会发生子宫内膜异位症。


严重者会间接罹患巧克力囊肿、子宫肌瘤等,中医以行血去瘀为主、补养气血为补,中药处方与针针灸、推拿都一样秉持此原则。此族群怀孕前,若能调理是很聪慧的。


此外,不当的性行为使下体感染的机会加大,而体质较差的妇女,即使性行为正当,但在不良环境下,也会伤及怀孕功能,如洗温泉、泡热水澡、洗三温暖、酗酒、抽烟、长期暴露于幅射线,以及在有毒化学药品环境下工作,常见白带异常增多,就有可能演变成子宫发炎,甚至整个骨盆腔都发炎,还有可能影响脑下垂体及卵巢的正常分泌功能。


以上状况发生越多的妇女,越须做好孕前优生,这不只是保障自己的生命健康,对孩子也是一种优养。因此,西医通常不建议未曾生育过的女性使用子宫内避孕器,因为如此很可能造成骨盆腔感染,及子宫颈闭锁不全,甚至造成不孕。


中医促孕药膳很多, 可根据个别情况选用。以下介绍一道美味又助孕的药膳。陈皮鸡翅助孕汤:材料:陈皮4.5克,茯苓12克,甘草3克,红枣6粒,鸡翅10只,盐适量。做法: 1.锅内烧开热水,放入鸡翅烫过,捞起以冷水冲净,沥干水分。 2.陈皮以小布袋包好,放入锅内,再将茯苓,甘草,红枣过水洗净加入,并加入5杯水及鸡翅,煮沸后改小火再煮约30分钟,加盐调味即可。本药膳适用于因痰气太旺盛而造成的偏胖型女性,改善子宫后倾和腹部闷胀,有益于受孕。

另外中成药如中将汤、白凤丸、生化汤、桃仁四物汤、四物汤、八珍汤、逍遥散、当归建中汤、安中散、温经汤、归脾汤、清心莲子饮等,都是孕前优生调养的好药方。当然要对症下药,若能配合早睡早起,早上做充分有氧运动,更能让母亲健美、宝宝健康。


東方中醫藥進修學院
L-02-06, Jalan PPK 1,
Taman Kinrara Section 3 Town Centre,
47100 Puchong, Selangor.
Tel: 03-7982 4562

丹绒士拔养猪场 A Visit to a PIG FARM in Tanjong Sepat



丹绒士拔养猪场

文:谢宋美/李佩霜





早 一阵子某些猪农使用长肉剂的新闻不断引起轩然大波,消费者不敢食用猪肉导致肉贩生意下跌,养猪场一间间被迫关闭,无良的猪农惨害同业损失重大。目前政府规定全马仅四个州属可以合法养猪,分别为马六甲、霹雳、槟城和雪兰莪。在政府监督之下,长肉剂已经消声匿迹。

为了让广大读者了解猪肉的来源,在顾问施文康师傅的穿针引线之下,我们到雪兰莪丹绒士拔余宏兴先生的养猪场采访。

第一次参观猪农场,一下车就臭气扑鼻,很想放弃继续往前走的念头,但是既来之则安之,不久就习惯了那难闻的味道。

余先生今年三十余岁,却有二十多年养猪经验,他说:「一只健康的猪当然吃量要营养均衡,以玉米、黄豆渣、麦皮、麦糠混合饲料喂养。每只猪的食量都经过规划,不能让它们吃得太多或吃得太少。一只产后的母猪配以5公斤饲料;待产的母猪配以2公斤半饲料;普通的大猪食量是2.2公斤饲料;小猪就随意,但是为了不让小猪过肥还得控制它们的食量。」

他向我们详细讲解养猪过程:「每只公猪配10只母猪,首先会让公猪趴在人工授精架上抽取精液,经过化验之后才注入适合怀孕的母猪子宫内。」当被问是否一针就能见到其效果呢?余先生说:「这就要看看本身的技术,通常一次即能成功;若无效第二天再注入第二支针。」

余先生带领我们亲眼目睹母猪生产的过程一面解释:「母猪怀孕期介于112-116天,一头母猪能在两年内怀胎五至六次,每次平均生产9只猪宝宝,整个过程需耗两小时半。」余先生也告诉我们:「母猪的年龄越大,所生下的宝宝体质越差,所以超过两年的母猪不适合受精。」至于如何处理不再受孕的母猪?余先生表示说会把该母猪送到宰猪场解决。如果遇到母猪难产等事时,他们会剖开母猪的肚将猪宝宝取出。

刚出生的猪宝宝会有条长长的脐带,身上还粘着胎盘,待一天干了会慢慢的脱落。养猪并非一朝一夕的事,要不断的观察小猪的状态,若发现小猪病了或是有不适,他们就会把小猪移到特制的加护猪栏观察状况。小猪出生三十天后就必须离开母猪,打一支预防猪瘟的疫苗后送到保育室,让它们在那慢慢的成长。猪栏的面积介于14x16尺或16x18尺之间,每个猪栏可容纳8-9只体重大约有130-140公斤成长的猪只。最后,猪只售出之后必须将猪栏以白灰消毒,做足防范措施。

一个设备齐全的养猪场怎能忽略环境污染问题?余先生的养猪场对于排污系统绝不马虎,过滤系统把排泄物分开,猪粪做成有机肥,污水经过六个净化池,过滤清洁后才排入大海。


A Visit to a PIG FARM in Tanjong Sepat
By Catherine Chia & Lee Pei Shuang

Some months ago, an issue on the excessive use of beta agonist hogged the media daily. This is a banned growth hormone used by some unscrupulous breeders on pigs. Counter-measures were taken against them and those affected farms were placed on a month long quarantine. Bad reputation sparked off fears among many meat consumers. Many breeders suffered losses and some had to close shop for good. The government has declared pig rearing in only four states, namely- Malacca, Perak, Penang and Selangor and the matter of banned growth hormones will continue to be under surveillance. This has appeared to bring a halt to such activity.

As our issue 38 covers the theme of pork eating, we decided to visit a pig farm, to understand the subject of pig breeding better. Chef Sia Boon Kang introduced us to a breeder known as Mr. Yu Hong Heng, who owns a pig farm in the district of Tanjong Sepat.

As we stepped out of the car, a strong stench welcomed us. It was such a powerful odour which penetrated the air but after a while, as we got used to the overall environment, the odour became less obvious.

Mr. Yu is in his mid-thirties but packs in 20 over years of experience working on the farm. He gave us a vision on how pigs are raised. Accordingly, a healthy pig needs a balanced diet of corn kernels, soy beans residue, oats, mixed cereal feed to attain good growth. Every pig will have a different food ration as the needs are not similar. A female pig which has just given birth would need an eat of five kilos, a female pig due to be in labour soon can only be fed with two and-a-half kilos of food. Normal adult pigs are fed with 2.2 kilos ration but piglets are free to eat any amount. But it is not an ideal picture if the piglets put on too much weight at a young stage so there needs to be a control somehow.

It is interesting to note that an adult male pig can go through only 10 series of artificial semen extraction during its tiptop lifespan. The spermatozoon are kept in a laboratory to check for any abnormalities before being induced into the uterus of the female pigs. Only a single sperm is needed to fertilize each egg produced by the female. This artificial insemination method holds high rate of success but if it fails for one reason or another, the procedure is done a second time.

It was a lucky day as Mr. Yu led us to visit a mother pig nestled in ‘confinement’. A female pig’s pregnancy lasts a full trimester of 112 to 116 days. In a span of 24 months, she can conceive about five to six times. Each birth brings a litter of nine piglets. The whole process of a normal birth takes two and-a half hours. As every birth can be unique and in case of complication, the breeder or Mr. Yu is in his mid-thirties but packs in 20 over years of experience working on the farm. He gave us a vision on how pigs are raised. Accordingly, a healthy pig needs a balanced diet of corn kernels, soy beans residue, oats, mixed cereal feed to attain good growth.

It is interesting to note that an adult male pig can go through only 10 series of artificial semen extraction during its tiptop lifespan. The spermatozoon are kept in a laboratory to check for any abnormalities before being induced into the uterus of the female pigs. Only a single sperm is needed to fertilize each egg produced by the female. This artificial insemination method holds high rate of success but if it fails for one reason or another, the procedure is done a second time.
It was a lucky day as Mr. Yu led us to visit a mother pig nestled in ‘confinement’. A female pig’s pregnancy lasts a full trimester of 112 to 116 days. In a span of 24 months, she can conceive about five to six times. Each birth brings a litter of nine piglets. The whole process of a normal birth takes two and-a half hours. As every birth can be unique and in case of complication, the breeder or farmhand helps the mother pig with a ‘Caesarean section’.

Even female pigs can have their heydays as they must be SYT (sweet young things). At two years old, they have passed their prime. Female pigs who have lived beyond the watershed period may still be capable of conceiving but their offspring are not very desirable healthwise. Hence, they need not go through artificial insemination anymore but ends up in the abattoir. This meat is often sold under a different category.

Newborn piglets have long umbilical cords and placentas. It sheds off by itself after a day. Young piglets need some intensive attention and any piglet found not to be in a picture of health would be separated for observation, to help contain any disease outbreak. Piglets leave their mother after a weaning period of 30 days. Generally, each piglet is given a booster injection to help them ward off infection.

They must be cared for painstakingly, taking all possible precautionary measures until they are less vulnerable to any health attacks. Any piglet on health alert would be housed in special care units. Grown pigs are lodged in enclosures measuring 14’X16’ or 16’X18’. Each space can hold eight to nine fully grown pigs, all weighing between 130 to 140 kilos each. After the pigs are disposed off to the abattoirs, the enclosures are disinfected with white lime as sanitation arrangements can be very important.

This farm has a waste management system unlike others. Pigs’ excrement are turned into organic compost or fertilizer and other waste material are desludged. It goes through a six steps filtering process series, thereby churning cleaner water into the big sea.

One may not become an expert on livestock knowledge overnight but the visit is certainly an eye-opener and anything worth learning.

大东虾面(食得福茶室内)

Da Dong Prawn Noodles @ Food ‘R’ Us Coffee Shop

396, East Coast Road, Singapore.

(Junction Of East Coast Road and Teluk Kuran Road).

Tel: (02) 9479 7181(Jason Lim)

Business hours: 7am-3pm

Closed on Mondays


大东虾面 汤美虾甜
文:谢宋美


新加坡美食家陈笃汉先生最喜欢吃的早餐是新加坡大虾面,我们约好隔天早上八点见面。七点半越过新柔长堤,在关口处看到数以千计电单车骑士排得密密麻麻地等待通关到邻国谋生,蔚为大观。早上BKE及PIE高速公路通行无阻,我们却走错路,陈先生的一个朋友谢福权赶快过来带路,到达餐馆时已经迟了半个小时。

新加坡虾面与槟城虾面(福建面)都是大受欢迎的面食,各有支持者。槟城虾面以虾头及绞碎的虾壳为煲汤材料,虾壳受热后释放出的红色素将汤底变成红色,提高食欲。新加坡大虾面则是以猪骨及虾熬成,汤底颜色呈浅褐色。

陈先生所推荐的这间"大东虾面"虽然不是新加坡最热门的一家,然而东主林金坤却有三十多年的经验,很有水准。他熟练地将面条与豆芽放入热水烫熟后,加入预先处理好的大虾及排骨,淋上鲜甜的汤底后将碗内的汤倒回锅内,再次淋上汤,最后撒上猪油渣及炸葱头。汤底无比鲜甜,我们尝了之后赞不绝口,鲜虾一样鲜甜及肉骨够软够味,猪油渣有锦上添花之妙,难怪陈先生如此大力推荐。

林金坤向我们介绍:「这里有肉骨虾面、虾面、猪尾面及粉肠,除了面之外,还有粗及普通米粉供选择。」到新加坡寻美食,可别错过大东虾面!

Very Shiok Prawn Mee
By Catherine Chia


Our food guide, Mr. Tan Tok Han has always liked having a bowl of this prawn mee for breakfast as he travels often to East Coast Road for his morning fix. Though we have arranged to meet at eight in the morning but due to some oversight, we were caught along the causeway jam into Singapore. It was 7.30a.m and the lanes were packed with thousands of motorbikes, all getting ready to start work in the republic. Though the road signs shared the BKE and PIE symbols, we took a wrong turn and had to contact Mr. Tan who sent his friend Sheng to our rescue. We had to apologize as Mr. Tan had waited for us over half-an-hour.

This Singapore-style of prawn mee is slightly different from her Penang cousin. In Penang, the noodles are known as prawn mee, Hokkien mee or mee yoke. They use fried prawn shells and heads in the stock. Thus the stock has a reddish tone but the Singaporean version is pale in comparison. The stock is derived from a boil of pig’s bones and prawns but taste is good too!
Though this eatery may not be the best in this island but owner Jason Lim has been around for 30 years and the noodle dish has become something of a routine food for regulars and die-hard fans.

We enjoyed the prawn noodles as Jason scalded the noodles and beansprouts to a perfect bite. Big prawns and pre-cooked spare-ribs were topped on the noodles. Soup ladled into the bowls was something full of wholesome goodness and natural sweetness. It was a beauty to have a garnish of crisp pig’s lard cubs and shallots. These actually gave the dish an additional crunch. I tasted the superbly fresh prawns and tender ribs meat. No wonder Mr. Tan has become so addictive to this noodle dish.

Another good eat here should be the pig’s tail noodle dish. You have a choice of yellow mee, coarse or normal beehoon. Add this address to your book of good eats.

一品香经典厨房
Yi Pin Xiang Exquisite Kitchen
89 Pasir Panjang Road
Singapore 118511
Tel: (65) 6479 3078


御厨黄清标 巧手烤酥方
文:谢宋美

晚餐与陈笃汉先生约好在纽顿圈小贩中心停车场会合,在他带路之下,我们到巴西班让的“一品香经典厨房”享用晚餐。这家餐馆的东主来头不小,是新加坡三大名厨之一黄清标大师。餐馆的墙壁以报章及杂志报道剪贴装璜,道尽黄大师的辉煌战绩。黄大师也是一名饮食专栏作者,其著作《名厨饮食看人生》收录66篇他的作品。
擅长湖南四川菜的黄大师亲自为我们准备了八道菜,他向我们介绍:「烤酥方味道比北京烤鸭还好。每块饼须用四张豆腐衣,中间夹上开洋及火腿,最后以烤面皮给饼套上就好。」讲来轻松不过,要做得好却很考功夫。

南乳红麴骨肉够香醇是下饭的好搭档、芝麻蒜香鸡肥而不腻、川宫保虾丁够弹牙,在享用三道富饶的菜肴后,砂锅杏菜苗汤令人舒畅。接着端上来的是以大蒜及豆豉配搭的彭家豆腐及剁椒蒸鱼头,豆腐香滑可口,以红辣椒等多种配料蒸熟的鱼头卖相不错及味道恰到好处,火喉拿捏准确无误是关键。最后一道台式韭菜花炒鱿鱼丝配一碗热腾腾的蕃薯粥,为这一顿丰富而不油腻的晚餐写下休止符。
黄大师这几道菜看似稀松平常,却是他多年累积的经验结晶。当问及这间餐馆所走的价位路线时,黄大师强调希望能够以大众化价格推出正统美食,以食会友。喜欢寻找美食的你又怎能错过一尝大师级名厨的拿手好菜?

黄清标大师出生于台湾,今年55岁的黄大师是世界餐饮联合会副会长、新加坡老饕协会主席及国际评委,曾获亚洲烹饪大赛金牌、世界奥林匹克厨艺大赛金牌、新加坡厨艺界最高荣誉奖等殊荣。1980年受聘于同乐机构协办湘园酒楼6年。1986年转受聘于世界文华东方酒店集团新加坡东方酒店行政总厨,并兼任东南亚东方集团属下巡回厨务指导15年。

Royal Chef Huang Ching Biao
Known For Good Compilation Of Recipes
By Catherine Chia

We had arranged to meet around Newton Circus Food Court for Mr. Tan Tok Han to show us another good restaurant in the Pasir Panjang area. Yi Pin Xiang Exquisite Kitchen is owned by Chef Huang Ching Biao, one of the three most famous chefs in the republic. Articles from the media raving about his glorious days were decorated all over the walls. Chef Huang has written a lot on food and 66 pages of his writing has been compiled into a special feature book. He specializes in Hunan and Si Chuan cooking.

The eight dishes for dinner comprised of " Beancurd Crust with Chinese Crepes" which were actually rolls similar to the crepes served with Peking Duck. The centres were filled with crisped foo chook and ham. These were lightly baked to crisp the exterior. Though the process looked simple, it needed skill to present the perfect touch.

The next dish of " Red Fermented Rice Tofu Sauce Pork Loin Ribs" was a classic. " Roasted Spring Chicken With Fragrant Garlic Crumbs" had a nice crunch and it was a wonder the fat chicken did not taste the least greasy. We liked the crunchy prawns of the dish, " Si chuan Dried Chilli Prawns". Next came a beautiful soup known as " Supreme Broth Tender Amaranth", very simple but a deluxe drink. Another good presentation was this " Leek and Black Bean Tofu", the tofu was velvety smooth. We could taste superb wok flavour in this " Hunan Chilli Vinaigrette
Fish-head" as the skill showed through. The final dish included a Taiwanese style of " Chives Stir-fried with Dried Squids Shreds" which had a company of sweet potato porridge. Apart from
the tempting array of food, friendly and good service can be a bonus too.

Chef Huang knew the type of dishes he wanted to do. He is reproducing good food at a value eat, catering to the middle income group. Come and try Chef Huang’s own food style, you would see a culmination of the wealth of his food world being shared for those who appreciates such nice thought.

Chef Huang Ching Biao (Age: 55 years) was born in Taiwan.He has a string of awards internationally. In 1980, he worked with the Tung Lok Group for six years and then at another prestigious hotel, (Singapore) in 1986. The next 15 years was spent in being a kitchen consultant for a big corporation.

Quality Malay Food At PARIAMAN 狮城著名马来饭60年不变













WARONG NASI PARIAMAN

738, North Bridge Road,
Singapore 198706
(Near Sultan Mosque)
Tel: (65) 6292 2374






狮城著名马来饭60年不变
文:谢宋美

能够在新加坡经营马来餐接近六十年的历史,顾客来自各种族,午餐时间大排长龙,巴里阿曼这间不起眼的马来餐馆到底有何过人之处?

早上十一点,陈笃汉先生安排我们到新加坡的第一个午餐就是这间位于桥北路,靠近苏丹回教堂的小餐馆。说它是小餐馆并不带有贬低的意思,餐馆是一间角头战前建筑,店内空间相当狭窄,店前玻璃橱窗摆满食物,桌椅摆到走廊去。陈先生告诉我们:「这里十点开始营业,如果中午才来大排长龙最少须等15分钟,甚至没位子坐。」一点都不夸张,只见顾客从不间断。

十岁开始即随着父亲到这里用餐的陈先生是这里的常客,他向我们推荐:「这里最出名的是烤鸡。」巴里阿曼依然采用咸水木炭火烧烤鸡六十年不变。再淋上味道香醇可口的青咖哩或红咖哩,各有特色。鸡肉软硬适中,咖哩香无法盖掉烤鸡的独特炭香,这种古老香味使人回味无穷,我们给予高评价。

Quality Malay Food At PARIAMAN
By Catherine Chia

Pariaman is a simple eatery in Singapore known for a good taste of Nasi Padang as it has offered the same style of food for the past 60 years.

Mr. Tan Tok Han recommended us coming here for a taste of old-fashioned Malay food. It was around 11a.m when we saw the landmark- the Sultan Mosque. The eatery occupies the front portion of the shop. Glass cupboards here showcase many food products. Tables and chairs spilled into the corridor. They are open from 10a.m daily but lunch crowd can be extremely hard to handle. Mr. Tan told us, a waiting period of 15 minutes for a seat at that busy hour is quite usual.

He has been a strong supporter of this place as he used to tagged along with his father who loved this food. The taste has not changed and the roasted chicken is still cooked over a charcoal fire. A delicious gravy of both green and red curry are combined and drenched on top of the bird. One is whimsically won over by the unique taste. Of the meal itself, one can enjoy a satisfyingly dish in a certain old world charm.

A Gourmet Trip To Singapore 美食家带路 狮城寻美食














美食家带路 狮城寻美食
文:谢宋美



去年12月15日,世界金门日大会在吉隆坡万豪大酒店举办,新加坡金门会馆的总务陈笃汉先生带领数十位乡亲到此参与盛会,通过电话及电邮与我联络:「谢小姐,马六甲及吉隆坡有什么地方好吃?」一连介绍数个我们认为不错的食肆给陈先生,话还没讲完,他就说:「吃过了!」心想:遇到美食家了!见面之后,没有架子的陈先生给我们留下深刻的印象。



在新加坡,我们有很多读者,创刊至今还未正式报道当地美食,深感抱歉。虽然我们来自柔佛州,与新加坡只隔一条长堤,然而在吉隆坡落地生根已经接近廿年,对当地路线相当陌生,这次遇到一位对吃这么有研究的美食家,我们抱着姑且一试的心情厚着脸皮要求他介绍狮城美食,平易近人的陈先生竟然一口答应,让我们喜出望外。



趁八月二十日学校假期,我们带着长得比我们高的孩子到邻国,与陈先生约好早上十点半在莱佛士酒店会面。在司机带领之下,我们随着陈先生的车到达桥北路一家马来餐厅享用午餐。陈先生说:「如果太迟来排长龙,可能没位子坐。」陈先生自小经常随父亲到这家餐馆吃饭,食物水准没令我们失望。晚餐则安排到巴西班让一间新开的餐馆用餐,特别之处是这间餐馆由大师级御厨黄清标所有,黄大师亲自下厨,这是我们意想不到的收获。



隔天一早八点,陈先生带我们到加东吃大虾面,鲜甜的汤底令我们一尝难忘。享用过早餐,我们到陈先生位于樟宜的工厂参观,晚上则到他家里拍摄六道食物。



陈先生在百忙中抽空带我们品尝新加坡闻名美食,这几间食肆果然都很有水准,值得向读者推荐。我们很感谢陈先生这两天的安排,尤其是安排到他的家拍摄数道佳肴与共餐,同时接受我们的访问,分享他的成功经验,让我们对一个大企业家的胸怀大志、时间安排、管理及待人处世之道等有所了解。我们对陈先生的厨艺尤其佩服,六年时间能够培养出这么优异的烹饪技巧,再次证明陈先生不但是一名美食家还是一名实践家。



On A Singapore Mini Food Quest
By Catherine Chia



Mr. Tan Tok Han is the Dean Of General Affairs of the Singapore Kim Mui Hoey Kuan. I had my pioneer meeting with him when he and fellow men came to attend an annual meeting of global clan members at Hotel JW Marriot in Kuala Lumpur last December 15. Over a telephone conversation, he wanted to know the best eats in Kuala Lumpur and Malacca. But alas, he has been to each place I tried to recommend. Now, that is one true food gourmet. He is one of our Y3K readers who really tries out all suggested places for food. I met him face to face and found him very pleasant. Belonging to the upper class society does not make him snobbish as he is without a trace of arrogance.



Y3K’s debut issue first hit the streets of Singapore six years ago and readership has been on the steady rise. But till today, we have yet gone in search of Singapore’s best eats or done any in-depth features about their food. My husband and I are from Johor but after residing in Kuala Lumpur for 20 years, we are at a lost when it comes to what’s good across the causeway. I thought of an option. The best-laid plan would be to invite our Singapore reader cum foodie expert, Mr. Tan Tok Han to be our guide around the island. He obliged very willingly and I am very grateful for his help.



Our children tagged along for this trip as they were on a short holiday from study sessions. The appointment was fixed for August 20 at 10:30a.m. He chose an easy landmark, Raffles Hotel. After the meet up, we followed his car driven by his driver to North Bridge Road for lunch at a Malay eatery. That was one busy place as locals flocked there for good food.



Mr.Tan grew up eating food served here as his father simply loved that place. It was definitely an experience for us, trying out a rich Malay meal. Dinner was arranged at a newly opened restaurant in Pasir Panjang. This establishment is owned by the famous chef, Mr. Huang Ching Biao. It is a Chinese restaurant offering some of the best cuisine around town. On the spur of the moment, the boss decided to show us his deft hand with the wok. What an excellent meal we had.



Early next morning at eight a.m., Mr. Tan took us to Katong for breakfast. We had the famous Big Prawn Noodles In Soup. The stock was extremely sweet and I could now understand why locals are willing to travel the length and breadth of this tiny island to satisfy their appetites with this noodle dish. Later that morning, we visited his factory in Changi area and was his home guests for that evening.



He demonstrated his flair in cooking and presented six dishes. All recipes shown has a touch of his homeland grace as being a Kim Mui (this is a sub clan of the Fujian community). We thanked him for playing food guide for the two wonderful days, hosting dinner, sharing home recipes with Y3K readers. Another round of thanks for his generosity in teaching us about company administration, human relationship factors. Many of his life’s events has helped shaped his business and contributed to his achievements. Definitely a businessman with a difference as he is always on the move for foodie trips and yet excels in cooking, a skill picked up six years ago. As a successful entrepreneur, he has his own sense of individual style.

海友兴包点
Hai Yew Heng
405, Jalan Pasar,
42800 Tg. Sepat,
Kuala Langat, Selangor Darul Ehsan.

预定电话:012-272 9009,03-3197 4144
营业时间Opens:中午一时至傍晚六时
假期营业时间Public Holidays:早上十时开始



海友兴包点吃出感觉来
“相约呷个包,喝杯咖啡”,这句话说得一点也没错。雪州丹绒士拔是一个以农业及渔业为主的小村庄,也是一个休闲及美食的好去处。许多游客不惜千里迢迢组团前来,只为一尝手工海南包。
海友兴包点是一家拥有四十多年历史的包店。早期由公公打下基础,后来再由爸爸李亚吉接手,现在却由儿子李振德打理。数十年如一日的小店铺充满乡村风味,这里的手工包依然保持往昔口味,尤其是包皮与港式的包相比起来别有特色。

李振德的贤内刘翠芳不劳不怨地与丈夫一起打拼,俩人分工合作把包店打理得有声有色,就连四个孩子也是好帮手。老板娘说:「包包子一点都不难,但是口感要做到最佳,秘诀在于包皮和馅料要做足功夫。」所以每种馅料都是由他们一手自制的,做馅料往往比包包子还要花上较长的时间。
海友兴包点共有六种口味:生肉包、梅菜包、豆沙包、加央包、花生包和菜包。李振德告诉我们:「每粒包的面团重量是70克,加上同等重量的馅料,蒸包子的时间大约是十至二十分钟之间。」手工海南包的特色是皮不会粘牙,有口感及有咬劲 。
生肉包主要的材料来自猪肉,但是并非每一部分的肉都能使用,所以在这方面他们可是蛮专业的喔!自制包点的过程都讲究口感,所以李老板都会选用后腿肉,并且还得去筋去油后切成薄片,再加入少许猪颈肉方可达到最佳的效果。
梅菜包主要的材料是咸梅菜及猪肉,目前是海友兴销量最好的包点,经常供不应求。
豆沙包的馅料非采用红豆,而是选用绿豆为材料,非常特别。将浸软的绿豆磨碎,加入白糖炒约一个小时至馅料又细又发亮,非常顺口而不腻。
加央包的馅更是独家特制,为了不让加央冷却后成团,他们可是经过了多次的挫折后研究而成,一次制做就是120粒鸡蛋,吃后回味无穷。
另一种花生包,花生够爽脆可口而不易散开。菜包的馅料以沙葛为主,李太太说:「沙葛不能切的太细,这样才有口感。」
六种口味各异的包点赢得口碑,你怎能错过海友兴包点呢?
Pau Powers In The Countryside
Much of Tanjong Sepat’s land is utilized on agriculture, especially for growing crops or rearing livestock. Its close proximity to the sea, Tanjong Sepat’s cuisine features a lot of seafood. The many restaurants here are most famous for serving delicious seafood specialty dished. But Tanjong Sepat has been keeping a secret for a long time now, there is a quaint shop known as Hai Yew Heng, most popular for its range of hand-made Hainan paus.
The name synonymous with this dimsum snack has been a family business for over 40 years. Grandpa started the business and handed it to his son, Lee Ah Kiet. Senior Lee then passed the baton to son - Lee Chin Teck, who is the present boss. This is an outlet with a sense of history and continuity and we certainly had some expectations of hand-made paus. Well, it certainly tasted good and had a robust touch compared to those dainty Hong Kong version, country lass versus town lass.
Mr. Lee Chin Teck’s wife known as Madam Liew Sweet Fong, oversee the outlet’s operations and their joint efforts has attracted good business. Tourists come in droves and many Kuala Lumpur town locals make a detour here to enjoy these good snack. Mrs. Lee commented that in order to produce best seller paus, the fermentation of the dough and the preparation of filling are equally important. These tedious tasks are both done by her daily.
Hai Yew Heng sells a range of six different types of paus with their prices listed above. Each dough weight 70 grams and the filling has the same weight too. Steaming takes 10 to 20 minutes, depending on which variety is being steamed. Hand-made paus are not sticky to the bite but tastes really good, a wholesome delight.
Sang yoke pau has a filling of pork. Generally, they use the upper part meat of the hindleg. It is rather cumbersome as sinews and fats must be removed before slicing the meat into fine pieces. Next, a mixture of minced meat from the neck part is added in to provide a good bite.
Mooi choy paus are fashioned from preserved mooi choy and sliced pieces of pork. This is their signature pau and demand always oust production.
The beanpaste paus are made with a filling from green beans instead of red beans. These beans are soaked, ground and stir-fried with sugar over low heat for one hour till a nice sheen appears. The end result is a paste with no heavy taste.
Home-made kaya is used as the filling for kaya paus. Each steam of kaya results in a beat of 120 eggs. This is a secret recipe modified to give a correct consistency. The kaya does not turn into a gooey mass when the paus are cold.
Peanut paus are up to the marks. Vegetarian paus has yambean as the main ingredient. Mrs. Lee explained that to get a good crunch, the yambean must not be sliced too fine. It looses the texture.

We were literally immersed in all the paus that afternoon. And who else wouldn’t?

啤律大树下新华(早夜市)肉骨茶
RESTORAN XIN WAH
QP 27, Queen’s Park Retail Centre,
Jalan Shelley, Off Jalan Peel,
55100 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 019-267 1037 (Ooi Bee Fah)


新华肉骨茶
文:谢宋美
喜欢找吃的吉隆坡人对啤律绝对不陌生,这条位于蕉赖与敦拉萨路之间的老街有多家老字号的食店,食物水平保持一贯水平与价钱公道是留住食客一再回来的主因。
十多年前在半山芭富都广场上班,早餐总喜欢在啤律尾一家没挂招牌的大排档吃瓦煲肉骨茶。喜欢这里的环境有大树遮阴又没围墙,在自然风吹送下用早餐,心情特别舒畅。后来这里被市议会拆毁,我们顿失一个享用早餐的好地方。过一段时日在蕉赖路一间汽车装饰店内看到一个不显眼的招牌「新华肉骨茶」,原来这对辛勤的夫妻在这里东山再起(第19期56页报导)。虽然环境不比以前,老顾客陆续回来,食物除了肉骨茶之外,种类增加了,我们常带朋友来用餐。
去年新华肉骨茶搬到啤律的新商业区皇后园营业。 这里环境优美,多家名牌商店入驻,整个商业区以单层商店为多。新华得天独厚,管理层让出这个新区的双层商店角头单位给他们,同时将其中一条路封了让他们摆满桌椅营业。虽然是新区,由于在啤律大路边,这里大树成行非常凉爽,久别大树下用餐的环境再次回来。
味道甘甜的瓦煲肉骨茶依然是主要特色,五花肉弹牙,排骨的熟度恰到好处,滚烫的肉骨茶上堆着一撮芫荽解腻。此外,姜酒猪肝及猪腰、姜茸蒸鱼、清炒蕃薯叶、黄酒菜园鸡都是我们所喜欢的菜色。老板娘告诉我们:「搬来这里之后,每天早、午、晚用餐时间都满座。」无可置疑,新华带旺这个新区!
Famous K.L. Bat-Kut-Teh Spot
By Catherine Chia
Many good street food stalls, coffee shops, restaurants and food courts are found along Jalan Peel. This road is dominated by the Chinese enclave but there are a spread of Malay food stalls and a sprinkling of Indian eateries. This area could not be more diverse and similarly with the varieties of food found.
I liked the food found at Xin Wah and it has come a long way since I first ate at their little stall several years ago when I worked in Pudu Plaza. Early mornings left me with little choice for breakfast and it was always food at this little hawker’s place along Peel Road for claypot bak-kut-teh. The stall had a huge tree as shade and the whole place was free of perimeter. Gentle breeze in the mornings can be so refreshing as you eat in a casual atmosphere. Well, with everything added in, it gave the place its own distinct character. But soon enough, the stall was dismantled by City Hall. They relocated further down the street. It was stationed next to a car accessories shop along Batu 2½, Jalan Cheras. It was known as Restoran San Wah then and soon became a one-stop centre for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Their menu expanded and so did their patrons. We have introduced this place to reader before (Y3K issue 19, page 56) and brought many friends to savour their food.
Now the restaurant has moved once more and is now a mainstay at Queen’s Park Retail Centre, a complex off Peel Road which has a fair bit of Shopping under one roof. The management gave Restoran Xin Wah (change of spelling) utmost support. They reserved the corner section of the double level lot for them and even cordoned a small section of a private road to allow the placing of extra tables and chairs. Many old-timers just like to have their meals under the trees. As branches interwined, leafy canopies are created giving a rustic feel. Don’t you like to hear the rustle of leaves (they don’t normally end in the soup stock). The breeze has lured us here many times for meals.
This renowned K.L. style bak-kut-teh is far from ordinary, if you ask me. Claypot stock has a very appealing taste. Belly pork comes with a firm bite, spare-ribs are softened nicely without the meat falling off. The hot boiling stock has a simple garnish of coriander leaves. We liked a few of their signature dishes like ginger wine with pig’s liver and kidneys, ginger paste steamed fish, simple stir-fried sweet potato leaves, rice wine village chicken. They have other noted specials like braised whole pig’s trotter, white steamed village chicken. The restaurant here is bigger than those in modern food courts and lady boss is all smiles as she told us that business is now better than ever. Thanks to them, a hive of activity goes round the complex.


Y3K Recipes issue no.38


(Sept. – Oct. 2007)

Title: Pork
Features:
60 Delicious Pork Recipes, Homely Dishes
Pork in Herbal Recipes
Bread Baking
Malaysian Buka Puasa Recipes
A Gourmet Trip To Singapore






Contents of recipes in Y3K no.38
Catherine’s Kitchen 谢宋美私房菜
☆ 咸蛋蒸猪肉 Salted Egg Steamed Pork
☆ 姜葱炒猪腰 Ginger & Spring Onions Fried With Pig's Kidneys
☆ 烧排骨 Roasted Spare-ribs
☆ 青咖哩猪肉 Green Curry With Pork

Y3K’s Choice 推荐食谱
☆ 家庭式脆皮烧肉 Home-made Crispy Skin Roast Pork



The Master’s Touch 大师授艺
☆ 娘惹酸菜 Assam Roast Pork Nyonya Cuisine
☆ 焖肉 Stewed Meat
☆ 娘惹香料炒猪肉 Bak Char Rumpah (Nyonya Cuisine)
☆ 干咖哩甲必丹排骨 Spare-ribs Dry Curry Kapitan
☆ 娘惹腐竹汤 Tek Garki Th'ng (Nyonya Cuisine of Foo Chook Soup)



Put Some Meat On Your Plate 无肉不欢
☆ 泰式柠檬肉片 Lemon Fragrance Pork Ala Thai-style
☆ 豉汁蒸排骨 Ribs Steamed with Fermented Black Beans
☆ 雪菜肉碎扒菜蔬 Preserved Vegetable & Minced Meat Braised
☆ 醋溜肉丸 Meatballs In Sourish Sauce
☆ 亚参猪肉片 Assam Pork Slices
☆ 酸甜风梨肉球 Pineapple Meat Balls & Tangy Sauce



A Table Of Meat Consumers 肉香传千里
☆ 芝麻排骨 Sesame Seeds Spare-ribs
☆ 金香猪脚 Kam Heong Pig’s Trotter
☆ 腐乳花腩煲 Foo Yee Belly Pork
☆ 鸳鸯肠 Yin Yang Offal



A Whiff Across 金门美食
☆ 炸虾饼 Shrimps Cake Galore
☆ 韩式人参鸡汤 Ginseng Chicken Soup Ala Korean
☆ 红烧排骨 Red-braised Rib
☆ 清蒸斗鲳 Simple Steamed Pomfret
☆ 金门蚝煎 Fried Oyster Pancake Kim Mui Style
☆ 金门面线 Kim Mui Mee Suah



Cook It Our Way 我们的食谱
☆ 开胃咸菜凤爪 Ham Choy With Chicken Feet
☆ 卤鸭 Braised Duck
☆ 南乳排骨 Braised Nam Yee Ribs
☆ 椰香焗鸡 Santan Braised Chicken
☆ 特式油饭 Fragrant Rice
☆ 蒸香蕉蛋糕 Steamed Banana Kuih



HERBAL WAY TO HEALTH 现代大长今
☆ 猪肝桂花肉 Aromatic Liver Dish
☆ 莲子芡实猪肉汤 Lotus Seeds, Foxnut Pork Soup
☆ 杏仁蒸猪肉 Sweet Almonds Steamed Pork
☆ 玉竹猪肉汤 Yoke Chook Pork Soup
☆ 冬菇猪肉汤 Shitake Mushrooms Pork Soup
☆ 紫菜猪肉汤 Seaweed Pork Soup
☆ 花生红枣猪蹄美肤汤 Groundnuts Dates Pig’s Trotter Soup
☆ 鸡骨草猪肉汤 Herbs & Lean Pork Soup
☆ 夏枯草排骨汤 Hah Khoo Choh Spare Ribs Soup
☆ 板栗猪肉汤 Fresh Chesnuts Pork Soup
☆ 无花果炖肉 Dried Figs Pork Soup
☆ 蚝豉肉汤 Oysters Pork Soup
☆ 莲子百合猪肉汤 Lotus Seeds, Lily Bulb & Pork Soup
☆ 黄精炖肉 Wang Jing Steamed Pork



Ramadhan Feast 斋戒月美食
☆ Kuih Kemboja
☆ 薄饼Popiah
☆ Nasi Beriani Tumpang
☆ Daging Beriani Kambing
☆ Assam Rebus Ikan Masin dengan Nenas
☆ 参峇榴梿虾 Sambal Tempoyak Udang
☆ Masak Lemak Tempoyak Pucuk Ubi
☆ Ayam Masak Assam
☆ Serunding Kelapa dengan Udang Kering
☆ Botok-botok Ikan



Can You Resist These Baked Thrats 面包飘香
☆ 芝士咸豆蓉面包 Cheese & Savoury Bean Paste Bread
☆ 墨西哥芋头面包 Mexican Taro Bread
☆ 如意卷红豆面包 Bean Paste Bread in a Cup
☆ 香咸奶黄面包 Savoury Custard Bread