啤律大树下新华（早夜市）肉骨茶

RESTORAN XIN WAH

QP 27, Queen’s Park Retail Centre,

Jalan Shelley, Off Jalan Peel,

55100 Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 019-267 1037 (Ooi Bee Fah)

新华肉骨茶
文：谢宋美

喜欢找吃的吉隆坡人对啤律绝对不陌生，这条位于蕉赖与敦拉萨路之间的老街有多家老字号的食店，食物水平保持一贯水平与价钱公道是留住食客一再回来的主因。

十多年前在半山芭富都广场上班，早餐总喜欢在啤律尾一家没挂招牌的大排档吃瓦煲肉骨茶。喜欢这里的环境有大树遮阴又没围墙，在自然风吹送下用早餐，心情特别舒畅。后来这里被市议会拆毁，我们顿失一个享用早餐的好地方。过一段时日在蕉赖路一间汽车装饰店内看到一个不显眼的招牌「新华肉骨茶」，原来这对辛勤的夫妻在这里东山再起（第19期56页报导）。虽然环境不比以前，老顾客陆续回来，食物除了肉骨茶之外，种类增加了，我们常带朋友来用餐。

去年新华肉骨茶搬到啤律的新商业区皇后园营业。 这里环境优美，多家名牌商店入驻，整个商业区以单层商店为多。新华得天独厚，管理层让出这个新区的双层商店角头单位给他们，同时将其中一条路封了让他们摆满桌椅营业。虽然是新区，由于在啤律大路边，这里大树成行非常凉爽，久别大树下用餐的环境再次回来。

味道甘甜的瓦煲肉骨茶依然是主要特色，五花肉弹牙，排骨的熟度恰到好处，滚烫的肉骨茶上堆着一撮芫荽解腻。此外，姜酒猪肝及猪腰、姜茸蒸鱼、清炒蕃薯叶、黄酒菜园鸡都是我们所喜欢的菜色。老板娘告诉我们：「搬来这里之后，每天早、午、晚用餐时间都满座。」无可置疑，新华带旺这个新区！

Famous K.L. Bat-Kut-Teh Spot
By Catherine Chia

Many good street food stalls, coffee shops, restaurants and food courts are found along Jalan Peel. This road is dominated by the Chinese enclave but there are a spread of Malay food stalls and a sprinkling of Indian eateries. This area could not be more diverse and similarly with the varieties of food found.

I liked the food found at Xin Wah and it has come a long way since I first ate at their little stall several years ago when I worked in Pudu Plaza. Early mornings left me with little choice for breakfast and it was always food at this little hawker’s place along Peel Road for claypot bak-kut-teh. The stall had a huge tree as shade and the whole place was free of perimeter. Gentle breeze in the mornings can be so refreshing as you eat in a casual atmosphere. Well, with everything added in, it gave the place its own distinct character. But soon enough, the stall was dismantled by City Hall. They relocated further down the street. It was stationed next to a car accessories shop along Batu 2½, Jalan Cheras. It was known as Restoran San Wah then and soon became a one-stop centre for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Their menu expanded and so did their patrons. We have introduced this place to reader before (Y3K issue 19, page 56) and brought many friends to savour their food.

Now the restaurant has moved once more and is now a mainstay at Queen’s Park Retail Centre, a complex off Peel Road which has a fair bit of Shopping under one roof. The management gave Restoran Xin Wah (change of spelling) utmost support. They reserved the corner section of the double level lot for them and even cordoned a small section of a private road to allow the placing of extra tables and chairs. Many old-timers just like to have their meals under the trees. As branches interwined, leafy canopies are created giving a rustic feel. Don’t you like to hear the rustle of leaves (they don’t normally end in the soup stock). The breeze has lured us here many times for meals.

This renowned K.L. style bak-kut-teh is far from ordinary, if you ask me. Claypot stock has a very appealing taste. Belly pork comes with a firm bite, spare-ribs are softened nicely without the meat falling off. The hot boiling stock has a simple garnish of coriander leaves. We liked a few of their signature dishes like ginger wine with pig’s liver and kidneys, ginger paste steamed fish, simple stir-fried sweet potato leaves, rice wine village chicken. They have other noted specials like braised whole pig’s trotter, white steamed village chicken. The restaurant here is bigger than those in modern food courts and lady boss is all smiles as she told us that business is now better than ever. Thanks to them, a hive of activity goes round the complex.