2007/09/12

猪与猪肉 Versatile Meat of Pork



猪与猪肉

除了素食者、回教徒及猷太人不吃猪肉之外,猪肉是全世界最普遍的肉品之一。中国是猪肉的最大消费国,此外,生产的猪肉产品占全世界生产总和46%以上。最近当地的猪只患上蓝耳病导致猪只产量大减,价格节节上扬。德国猪脚世界闻名,多年前在歌德广场前一家猪脚专卖店,一人一只猪脚的大餐令我们毕生难忘。印尼回教徒占大多数,然而在峇厘岛,兴都教徒占90%,这里的烧猪当街摆卖。生活在柬埔寨暹粒洞里萨湖的船民与水上猪寮让我们为这里的卫生条件担忧。

本地区的养猪业风波不断,养猪场管制越来越严格,范围缩减至只允许在四个州的指定地区养猪,最近马六甲巴也明光以外的养猪场被令关闭更闹得沸沸扬扬。数年前到瓜拉登嘉楼采访,看到在这个回教徒占大多数的城市,猪肉竟然可以当街摆卖,这出乎我们意料之外。一位友人曾经说过:「华人是吃猪肉的民族,餐桌上不能一日无肉。」虽然在讲究保健的今天许多人已经不吃肉,然而这句话却是许多人的心声。

曾经在沙巴州住过一段时日,一天傍晚经过卡达山族的村庄,夕阳照射下一只刚生产不久的母猪拖着笨重的身体不慌不忙地越过马路,一群小猪争先恐后跟在后头。大小猪只和其他家禽一般饲养在屋子周围,没有围栏自由自在地走动。不远处一群小孩赤着上身在玩游戏,妇女抱着孩子在高脚茅屋前喂奶。我们为这温馨的景象停下车子,直至太阳下山。

余庚财与谢宋美

Meaty Topic

This versatile meat of pork has excellent flavour and is commonly eaten throughout the world. Vegetarians avoid all meat and pork taking is forbidden among Muslims and Jewish people. Yet, it still plays a major role in many cuisines. China is the world’s largest consumer and producer of pork. It provides about 46% of the worldwide demand. A recent spate of diseases has turned prices up. Pork is getting pricier too as this is likely to surge in conjunction with coming festivals. When we toured Germany some years ago, we had a memorable feast of consuming a pig’s knuckle each. The country is very famous for this kind of food. As we look at other countries like Indonesia which is nominally a Muslim nation yet there is actually an amazing diversity of religions. At least 90% of the population in Bali are Hindus and very often, small roasted pigs are on sale everywhere and used as food offerings. We have seen how pigs are housed on boats plying the Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia. Pigs are hardy animals and do not need a large area of land on which to graze. As the pig has long been an important source of food in communities throughout Asia, settlers will always raise it for their meat despite the living conditions.
Recently the issue of relocating pigs has been a hot topic and led to some commotion as pig breeders have failed to maintain good husbandry practices. The enforcement authorities and state government in Malacca has issued another deadline to these farmers to relocate the extra number of pigs. Well, pig farming is more of an environmental matter as even in religious state like Terengganu, we have seen how pork is openly displayed for sale. The Chinese consume a lot of this meat and has been their favourite meat for uncounted centuries.

On a visit to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah some time ago, we saw a mother pig leading her young brood to cross a road. They walked leisurely and at the village, both big and small pigs together with other domesticated birds were having their own fun. Young shirtless boys had fun with their form of competition and mothers sat around the verendah. Many were seen breastfeeding their babies. It was sunset time and it was glorious to discover their culture quality and the essence of the communities as it has its own distinctive lifestyle.

We just sat back as sunset made a good picture and memories are made of these simple, happy hours.


Richard Er & Catherine Chia

Y3K Recipes

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