一品香经典厨房

Yi Pin Xiang Exquisite Kitchen

89 Pasir Panjang Road

Singapore 118511

Tel: (65) 6479 3078

御厨黄清标 巧手烤酥方

文：谢宋美

晚餐与陈笃汉先生约好在纽顿圈小贩中心停车场会合，在他带路之下，我们到巴西班让的“一品香经典厨房”享用晚餐。这家餐馆的东主来头不小，是新加坡三大名厨之一黄清标大师。餐馆的墙壁以报章及杂志报道剪贴装璜，道尽黄大师的辉煌战绩。黄大师也是一名饮食专栏作者，其著作《名厨饮食看人生》收录66篇他的作品。

擅长湖南四川菜的黄大师亲自为我们准备了八道菜，他向我们介绍：「烤酥方味道比北京烤鸭还好。每块饼须用四张豆腐衣，中间夹上开洋及火腿，最后以烤面皮给饼套上就好。」讲来轻松不过，要做得好却很考功夫。

南乳红麴骨肉够香醇是下饭的好搭档、芝麻蒜香鸡肥而不腻、川宫保虾丁够弹牙,在享用三道富饶的菜肴后，砂锅杏菜苗汤令人舒畅。接着端上来的是以大蒜及豆豉配搭的彭家豆腐及剁椒蒸鱼头，豆腐香滑可口，以红辣椒等多种配料蒸熟的鱼头卖相不错及味道恰到好处，火喉拿捏准确无误是关键。最后一道台式韭菜花炒鱿鱼丝配一碗热腾腾的蕃薯粥，为这一顿丰富而不油腻的晚餐写下休止符。

黄大师这几道菜看似稀松平常，却是他多年累积的经验结晶。当问及这间餐馆所走的价位路线时，黄大师强调希望能够以大众化价格推出正统美食，以食会友。喜欢寻找美食的你又怎能错过一尝大师级名厨的拿手好菜？

黄清标大师出生于台湾，今年55岁的黄大师是世界餐饮联合会副会长、新加坡老饕协会主席及国际评委，曾获亚洲烹饪大赛金牌、世界奥林匹克厨艺大赛金牌、新加坡厨艺界最高荣誉奖等殊荣。1980年受聘于同乐机构协办湘园酒楼6年。1986年转受聘于世界文华东方酒店集团新加坡东方酒店行政总厨，并兼任东南亚东方集团属下巡回厨务指导15年。

Royal Chef Huang Ching Biao
Known For Good Compilation Of Recipes

By Catherine Chia

We had arranged to meet around Newton Circus Food Court for Mr. Tan Tok Han to show us another good restaurant in the Pasir Panjang area. Yi Pin Xiang Exquisite Kitchen is owned by Chef Huang Ching Biao, one of the three most famous chefs in the republic. Articles from the media raving about his glorious days were decorated all over the walls. Chef Huang has written a lot on food and 66 pages of his writing has been compiled into a special feature book. He specializes in Hunan and Si Chuan cooking.

The eight dishes for dinner comprised of " Beancurd Crust with Chinese Crepes" which were actually rolls similar to the crepes served with Peking Duck. The centres were filled with crisped foo chook and ham. These were lightly baked to crisp the exterior. Though the process looked simple, it needed skill to present the perfect touch.

The next dish of " Red Fermented Rice Tofu Sauce Pork Loin Ribs" was a classic. " Roasted Spring Chicken With Fragrant Garlic Crumbs" had a nice crunch and it was a wonder the fat chicken did not taste the least greasy. We liked the crunchy prawns of the dish, " Si chuan Dried Chilli Prawns". Next came a beautiful soup known as " Supreme Broth Tender Amaranth", very simple but a deluxe drink. Another good presentation was this " Leek and Black Bean Tofu", the tofu was velvety smooth. We could taste superb wok flavour in this " Hunan Chilli Vinaigrette
Fish-head" as the skill showed through. The final dish included a Taiwanese style of " Chives Stir-fried with Dried Squids Shreds" which had a company of sweet potato porridge. Apart from
the tempting array of food, friendly and good service can be a bonus too.

Chef Huang knew the type of dishes he wanted to do. He is reproducing good food at a value eat, catering to the middle income group. Come and try Chef Huang’s own food style, you would see a culmination of the wealth of his food world being shared for those who appreciates such nice thought.

Chef Huang Ching Biao (Age: 55 years) was born in Taiwan．He has a string of awards internationally. In 1980, he worked with the Tung Lok Group for six years and then at another prestigious hotel, (Singapore) in 1986. The next 15 years was spent in being a kitchen consultant for a big corporation.