Sea Cucumbers

Marine kingdom of sea cucumbers

In the oceanic waters of Maldives, Mauritius, Sri Lanka, Fiji, Philippines, Indonesia, Seychelles and Africa, there lies a great wealth of sea cucumbers. Under natural history, they are classified as the Echinoderms group. Biologists believed there are countless other species yet to be defined. Generally, sea cucumbers like to breed in clean, uncontaminated waters filled with corals. Normally embedded in a depth of 40-60 feet sandy grounds, they at times do perch on top of sea-bed rocks, forming a friendly colony with sea urchins and starfishes.

Environmentalists treasure these sea creatures as it helps in the natural evolution cycle of the Earth. Plants grow in the sea and produces oxygen to make the air breathable. Sea cucumbers nurtured on these drifting algae plants as it provides the right food for them. The marine plankton and the plant plankton co-habitat with one another. Thus,over many generations, a chain of evolution forms.

Throughout its life cycle, both sexes of sea cucumbers have good reproductive years. During the spawning season, sperms released are likely to fertilized with eggs breed. After the hatching period, larvae evolve and begin to develop slowly. Small larvae may be food to the bigger fishes, crustaceans, prawns, molluscs, octopuses who prey on them.

A matured sea cucumber has its own biological defensive weapon. When provoked, it is prompted to thrust out its internal organs but returns quickly to its normal self when left alone. They are normally harvested at a depth of 40-60 feet but sometimes it gets down to 100 feet deep. After the harvest, they are brought up to shores. The cleaning process begins but it does differ slightly in the processing for each variety caught.

Tips:
1) Sea cucumbers are quite fat-free and possess good proteins. This is a much sought after dried seafood delicacy. Hokkiens (a dialect group of the Chinese) will definitely cook this ingredient as festive food.
2) In Cantonese, it is known as Hoi Sum. It incorporates a pun with a symbolic rhyme of Happy hearts. This is reasonable enough why sea cucumbers make good gift packs during Chinese New Year.

A first-hand knowledge of:

(A) Steps taken in cleaning teat fish for export(chee poh sum in Cantonese):
Use sea water to soak it for eight hours. Change sea water constantly, till it is clean. Bring sea water or plain water to a boil. Add in a couple of sea cucumbers to boil for 45 minutes. Repeat with the rest of sea cucumbers. Turn off the heat and let it cool naturally. Slice open at a length of two-three cm and clean off entrails. Repeat the boiling step all over again to do a thorough job.
After the cooling process, pierce a sharp, bamboo skewer through the body. This helps to retain its shape. Flip over to rest it on its tummy side. Put it out into the sun to dry. Later, roast it in the oven for a while to ensure even drying. Remove the skewer and to retain a shape, bind it with a string each. Place it under the scorching sun to dry again. Untie the string, sort out the grades and it is ready for export.

(B) Processing sand fish
Clean off all entrails. Drain dry on bamboo racks. Boil and let it cool naturally. Bury it in the sand for 15-18 hours. Bring it out and give it a good scrub. Boil again, cool thoroughly and a final step, sun it once more. Only properly dried sea cucumbers can have a good storage life. This is then marketed to the middleman who would resell it for culinary and medicinal purposes.


The cleaning process of sea cucumbers:

Sea cucumbers, disregarding sizes and colours, possess the same nutrients. They contain loads of protein and are low in fats and cholesterol. Being nicknamed as Ginseng of the sea, it is believed to have some curative remedies. The jelly-like fibrous, spongy substance are considered to be good for hypertension and is an aphrodisiac in the Chinese health benefit language.

A few points are printed here to help you to select a prime buy. The sea cucumbers must be really dried, knock it against a table's surface. Listen to the strong sound, the heavier the echo, the better it is. Well dried sea cucumbers have a good storage life. The spiky chee sum can easily be recognised. Teat fish or chee poh sum is sturdy built and has two little spikes at the sides. Some are not too obvious and at times it can be mistaken for another variety, which bears a close resemblence.

Sand fish has a rounder appearance and has horizontal lines across. This is the most common type for household purchases. It needs a trained eye to choose the varieties and a non-unscrupulous dealer to help you.

When you need to cook sea cucumbers, prepare the tedious task, days ahead. Give it a wash, soak it in a basin of tap water for one day. On the second day, boil a pot of water. Turn off the heat, immerse in the sea cucumbers and cover up the pot. Soak for the whole day. On the third day, split open the stomach, remove all entrails, scrub it inside out, very clean with a brush. Boil another pot of water. Turn off heat and immerse cucumbers in again till it is soft enough. Remember the water must be boiling hot before you turn off the heat, the pot and water must be free of oil. As a matter of fact, you never soak dried seafood of any kind in water that has even a drop of oil. The sea cucumbers should have doubled its size now. To remove the fishy odour, place slices of old ginger, stalks of spring onion and some Chinese cooking wine into a pot. You either use a stock or plain water to cook it for 15-30 minutes. After this process, it should be ready for its pairing-off with other ingredients. Sea cucumbers are virtually tasteless on its own. It absorbs the flavour from stock of the dishes. It can withstand long terms of cooking like braising, double-boiling, simmering or it can be stir-fried with sauces ranging from savoury, sweet, sourish or spicy.

At any rate, try cooking our recipes printed. The enthusiastic home cook will surely be able to dish up something wonderful for this festival. Happy cooking.

Selected Recipes:

(1) DRAGON BOAT SEA CUCUMBER

Ingredients:
1 piece chee poh sum
10 stalks Shanghai flat cabbages/ siew pak choy
10 pieces fresh scallops
100g small prawns
100g black dried mushrooms (soaked, sliced)
100g braised peanuts (canned type)
300g pork (minced)
4 slices ginger
5 stalks spring onion
1 litre superior stock
Seasoning:
2 tbsp Maggi concentrated chicken stock
1 tbsp oyster sauce
1/2 tbsp sugar
1 tsp chicken granules powder
A little pepper
Some dark soy sauce
For thickening: mix together
1 tsp tapioca flour
1 tbsp water
Method:
1. Put sea cucumber, ginger, spring onions, superior stock and seasoning to braise for 1 hour. Place it on a plate. Keep aside.
2. Blanch siew pak choy with a little oil, salt. Drain and surround the plate with it.
3. Fry mushrooms, peanuts, small prawns and minced pork. Pour in the gravy from no.(1). Cook till it is semi-dry. Thicken the gravy and pour over no.(1) which has been garnished with the blanched vegetable. Serve hot.


(2) FOOKCHOW MERRIMENT SEA CUCUMBERS

Ingredients:
1 piece sand fish
200g big prawns meat
200g tomatoes (diced)
50g old ginger (sliced)
50g garlic (minced)
50g red chillies (minced)
4 tbsp tomato sauce
Marinade for prawns: a little each
Salt, sugar, pepper powder, tapioca flour
Seasoning:
2 tbsp black good quality vinegar
2 tbsp Thai chilli sauce
1 tsp sugar
1 tbsp light soy sauce
A little pepper
A little water
For thickening: mix together
1 tsp tapioca flour
A little water
Method:
1. Heat wok, add in 2 tbsp oil. Saut?garlic, chilly and ginger. Add in tomatoes, tomato sauce and sea cucumber. Stir-fry till aromatic and add in a little water. Simmer over low heat for 1 hour till flavour develops.
2. In the meantime, mash the prawn meat with the blade of a cleaver. Add in marinade and beat till a paste forms.
3. Stuff no.(2) into the cooked sea cucumber which has been brushed with a layer of tapioca flour. Steam the stuffed sea cucumber for 10 minutes on high heat. Remove from heat and cut it into pieces.
4. Bring the seasoning to a boil. Thicken gravy and pour over no.(3).


(3) SEA CUCUMBERS LOADED WITH WEALTH

Ingredients:
10 pieces small sand fish
10 French beans (cut into sections)
10g dried sole fish (diced)
100g crab meat (see tips)
20g cured ham (diced)
500ml superior stock
Seasoning:
1 tbsp Maggi concentrated chicken stock
1/2 tbsp oyster sauce
1 tsp chicken granules powder
1 tbsp light soy sauce
A little pepper
For thickening: mix together
1/2 tbsp tapioca flour
A little water
Method:
1. Deep-fry both crab meat and ham.
2. In wok, add in 3 tbsp oil and saut?dried sole fish. Add in the sea cucumbers.
3. Add in seasoning, superior stock and cook over low heat till sea cucumbers absorb in the flavours.
4. Taste and adjust seasoning. Thicken gravy and add in no.(1).
5. Blanch French beans with a little oil and salt to keep its green colour. Garnish the plate with it.
Tips: Steam crabs and flake off the meat. You can buy processed type from shops or supermarkets.


(4) TRADITIONAL SEA CUCUMBERS, EMPRESS STYLE

Ingredients:
10 pieces chee poh sum (disregarding sizes)
10 black dried mushrooms (soaked soft, cut a cross in the centre)
1 dried cuttlefish (soaked, shredded)
5 pips garlic (peel skins)
1 cinnamon stick/ kayu manis
1 star anise/ bunga lawang
10 honey peas
500ml superior stock
Seasoning:
1 tbsp Maggi concentrated chicken stock
1 tbsp oyster sauce
1/2 tsp chicken granules powder
A little pepper
For thickening: mix together
1 tsp tapioca flour
A little water
Method:
1. Heat wok, add in 4 tbsp oil. On high heat, saut?cinnamon bark, star anise and garlic pieces. Add in chee poh sum, mushrooms, dried cuttlefish, and stir-fry well.
2. Add in superior stock, seasoning and bring it to a boil. Simmer over low heat for 1/2 hour. Taste and adjust seasoning. Thicken the gravy and dish up.
3. Blanch honey peas with a little oil and salt to keep its green colour. Garnish the plate with it. Serve hot.


(5) TREASURE ISLAND'S GLORY

Ingredients:
1/2 portion of a pig's fore-trotter (chop into pieces)
1/2 rice bowl oil
600g pre-soaked sea cucumbers
2 whole bulbs of garlic (leave skins on)
A little minced garlic
1 tbsp sugar
1 litre water
2 tbsps Chinese cooking wine
Seasoning:
2 tbsps soy sauce
1 tsp salt
A little pepper
Method:
1. Parboil pig's trotter pieces for five minutes. This is to remove the oil and scums. Dish up and drain dry.
2. In luke warm oil, stir-fry sea cucumber pieces. Remove and drain away excess oil.
3. Heat clean wok, add in 1/2 rice bowl oil and caramel the sugar till a light golden colour is achieved. Do this process on a very low heat. When the sugar solution is bubbly, put in no.(1). Stir well over a high heat.
4. Add in minced garlic, seasoning and water. Simmer over medium heat for 1 hour.
5. Add in the whole garlic bulbs and sea cucumbers. Top with extra water if necessary. After 1/2 hour, check ingredients for tenderness and gravy should be rather thick in consistency.
6. Finally, drizzle in the Chinese cooking wine and dish up contents.


(6) SEA CUCUMBERS EMBRACED WITH GEMS

Ingredients:
1 dozen goose webbed feet (chop off claws)
1 kg pre-soaked/ cleaned, good quality sea cucumbers (sand fish)
1 whole floret of broccoli
3 slices cekor (sar keong)
1 tbsp Szechuan peppercorns
4 star anise/ bunga lawang
1 piece cinnamon bark/ kayu manis
A pot of water
1/2 bowl oil (see method, step 3)
1 tbsp sugar
Seasoning:
1 tbsp oyster sauce
A little salt
A little MSG/ Aji-no-moto
A little dark soy sauce
1 tbsp fragrant oil (see tips 3)
For thickening: mix well
1 tbsp tapioca flour or cornflour
1 tbsp water
Method:
1. Make a bouquet garni. Use a small piece of cheesecloth, put in cekor, peppercorns, star anise, cinnamon bark and tie it with a string. Place this small bag of flavouring in a pot of water and boil on high heat for 1/2 hour. Add in a little salt and rock sugar to taste. Pour boiled solution into a big soup bowl, keep aside to cool.
2. Parboil goose webbed feet, remove and rinse it in cold water. Remove and drain.
3. Heat up 1/2 bowl oil, add in 1 tbsp sugar and stir over low heat till it turns bubbly and is a golden hue. Add in goose webbed feet and stir well. Remove and put into no.(1). Place all into a pot and boil over high heat for 2 hours or more till the feet are tender enough for the palate.
4. Heat oil and stir fry sea cucumbers. Add in Chinese cooking wine, then seasoning. Simmer over low heat for 1/2 hour till sea cucumbers are edible.
5. Add in no.(3), thickening and doused with two tbsp fragrant oil.

Tips:
1. To caramel sugar, the oil must not be too hot and you must not burn the sugar.
2. You may replace goose webbed feet with normal chicken feet. The preparation is the same.
3. To make fragrant oil: Put 50g minced garlic, 50g minced shallots, a whole plant of Chinese coriander including the roots into 500ml of oil in a wok.Cook over low heat till it is bubbly and golden in colour.

Abalones

A Brief History

Abalones are harvested in many regions around the world, the seas around Mexico has the best ones. Abalones are also found in the waters around Australia, along USA's Pacific Coast,the Arabian Gulf and of course, the sea around Japan.

However, only Japan can boast a special variety of abalones that can be cured without compromising its distinctive aroma - a delicacy much sought after the gourmets around the world. Abalones from other regions are usually sold canned or fresh. The sea around Japan where abalones are harvested is pollution-free. This is one of the reasons for the good quality.

What is special about Japanese dry abalones?

To begin with, the semi-opaque dried abalones are distinguished by its special smooth flavour and rich aroma. When sliced open, it has the colour of salted duck egg yolks with a slight tint of gold.

In terms of shapes and sizes, the Canadian abalones are closest to the Japan variety. In fact, a group of Japanese abalone masters went to Canada with the intention to produce dried abalones with the Canadian variety. But, after several months of experimentations, they returned to Japan with disappointment. They are now more convinced that Japanese dried abalones are unique.

Generally, the string of bays dotting the Iwate and Aomori prefectures produces the most famous abalones. The finest abalones are found in a strip of water known as Three Trees in Miyako. But it is not easy to harvest abalones here. The reasons are the great depth and older abalones are wiser. They have learnt to avoid suction tubes by hiding deep down. As they tend to evade the hunters for a long time, they are often larger than normal.

Controlled Harvesting

Recently, the Japanese government enacted special laws for harvesting abalones. Fishermen must use a periscope and special suction tube to catch abalones. They are not allowed to dive into the creature's habitat. Fishermen are only allowed to catch fully grown abalones. Undersized ones should remain untouched.

Abalone fishermen work throughout the day. Only 10 per cent of the catch is used for making dried abalones. The rest are canned or made into abalone sashimi or tepanyaki. Recent times in Japan, Abalone sashimi has become very popular as a highly nutritious delicacy. Until recently, the Japanese did not know that such delicacy could be made from dried abalones. Now they have learnt the secrets from Chinese chefs. The production of dried abalones is bound to increase.

A Master's touch

In Japan, three families are renowned for the production of dried abalones.Each family has a master who is both the director and producer of the show. To produce perfectly dried abalones, their experiences and expertise are crucial.

First, skilled women workers carefully separated the flesh from the shell, this process demands utmost skill because damaged abalones will be rejected. Being so, unskilled workers will never be employed.The technique of separating abalones from the shell is not as easy as it seems, the innards of the abalones,a delicacy, must also be extracted. This surgeons will definitely lose their jobs after a few blunders.

Once the abalones are removed from its shell, they are immersed in salt water for two days. After that they have to be thoroughly boiled. Then spun in a revolving cylinder to remove all impurities. The process takes about an hour. An abalone factory is always steamy hot, so hygiene is very important. Therefore, women workers wear special headgear and plastic overalls.

These skilled workers now move the abalones from the boiling water onto a huge strainer, the sized of a single bed. They do not touch the abalones with their bare hands, and instead use large wooden spatulas. Once cooled, the abalones are place on a bamboo stand.

Then, the bamboo stand is placed over a large charcoal oven. The clay brick oven normally holds only 3-4 pieces of charcoal internally. The slow heat evaporates the moisture in the abalones without damaging the stand. This requires careful control of intense heat. When the abalones are about 80 percent dry, they are sewn together with large needles and thin strings from one end to the other. A string of abalones usually consists of 10 golden yellow pieces. These strands are then strung on bamboo sticks, which are fixed vertically on wooden squares. Hundreds and thousands of abalones hoisted in these frames make a spectacular sight. They are thus sun-dried for about a month, as the abalones turn reddish. Excessive sunlight will damage the abalones.

A small quantity of the Japanese harvest is exported to Hong Kong as dried abalones, the rest are for the domestic market in Japan.

King of Abalones - Yueng Koon Yat

Everyone calls him Ah Yat. His early years was spent as a mere kitchen trainee and was later promoted to a waiter position. In 1974, this enterprising self taught chef started a joint venture seafood outlet, Forum Restaurant, with friends but the project turned sour. Eventually with his dedicated passion, he began a new journey.

He spent a huge fortune to experiment and master the skills in dried abalones preparation. Finally years later, in 1983, he successfully created his signature dish Tong Sum Abalones.

In 1986, Ah Yat participated in a China Culinary Exchange Fair presenting his creation of Tong Sum Abalones. There is a classic quote from China's ex-leader, Deng Xiao Peng, "Since China's revolution, these are the best abalones I have tasted." This instantly brought stardom to Ah Yat.
In 1992, he was invited to be a member of Club Des Chefs Des Chefs (Chief Chefs Club-C.C.C.), a world prestige culinary association. Many world leaders were impressed with his memorable abalone dishes. He has been ranked as a world status food ambassador. Ah Yat was awarded the C.C.C. gold medal in 1996. In Year 2000, he was honoured once again another even higher level world award for his gourmet dishes.

Here, Ah Yat imparts his knowledge to our readers. Dried abalones should be pre-cooked in a claypot over a charcoal stove for at least two days. Stir it constantly and add extra stock when necessary. Try not to overpower the natural flavour with seasonings. Most people like to add in Yunan ham but this is not advisable as the abalones tend to turn saltish and the wonderful taste is eliminated.

Bringing with him more than 50 years of food involvement,he now owns a chain of restaurants in Asia. Two of them are in Malaysia; one is located in Kuala Lumpur's Swiss Garden Hotel and the other in Genting's First World Hotel.

Since the opening of Forum Restaurant in Kuala Lumpur last July, there is always a queue out there with guests waiting patiently for their turns to savour the palate pleasing Ah Yat Abalone. We truly believe that his food creation will create a worldwide trend. Entertain at a higher level, go Ah Yat tonight!


Abalones Dealer In Malaysia

The Chinese Culture is very much entrenched in their food, especially celebrating special occasions like the reunion dinner - the open day of New Year, which is the second day of Lunar New Year - Low Shang on the seventh day - The Hokkien New Year on the ninth day - Chap Go Mei on the fifteenth day. The Chinese custom emphasizes heavily on serving good food during happy occasions.

In Fact, the demand for Chinese dried seafood tends to increase tremendously as the Lunar New Year approaches. Dried seafood such as abalones, sharksfin, sea cucumbers, scallops and dried oysters were for the elite in the olden days, according to Hiah (Gan) Siek Kee, Managing Director of Kwang Yeow Heng, one of the leading shops selling Chinese dried food. However, there is a change in the contemporary trend whereby restaurants promote abalones dishes as their signature dish. Among the popular dishes are the Monk Jumps Over The Wall, Sharksfin set meal and dried abalones set meal. These dishes are becoming more popular and common.

Besides the abalones' excquisite taste, what is the reason that causes its popularity?

Abalones are categorized as a type of soft-shelled creature. They are mainly found in the seas of Japan, South Africa, Mexico, Australia and New Zealand. An abalone contains lots of protein and vitamin A. It helps to improve the kidneys' condition and one's eyesight. If Chinese herbs are combined together, it brings lots of good health.

The Alisan brand abalones are found in the seas of Mexico. The processed abalones maintain a springy texture, which is most suitable to be eaten raw or to go along with chilli sauce or oyster sauce.

The Skylight brand abalones are found in the seas of Australia and New Zealand. The abalone hunters usually capture these creatures during the night time and processed them into canned abalones within five hours, before 10 a.m. These canned abalones are famous for its unique sweetness and smooth texture.

Hiah in his 70s has a word of advice that abalones should not be eaten on empty stomachs as this will eliminates its goodness. Abalones are able to revive one's energy level too.

LEISURE HOLIDAY IN BEIJING

Unwind At China's Northern Provinces
Beijing/ Chende/ Tianjin

22-7-2004 (Thursday)
It was nine in the morning when we boarded a Malaysian Airlines flight to our dream getaway, Beijing. Our group totalled seventeen and out of this number, eleven of them are from the restaurant hospitality trade. Only four members are not connected to us but we embraced them as our new found friends. Welcome to our world on a quest for culinary adventure.

Six hours later, we were thrilled to land at Beijing International Airport. I looked forward to viewing the capital of China, a place teemed with history. Beijing occupies an area of 16,800 sq. km and houses a population, currently at 16 million. This is quite close to our total population in Peninsular Malaysia. We share a same time zone but gosh, the sky is bright as early as four a.m and does not get dark till eight in the evenings. They have the four seasons and this month of July is the summer. The weather is quite identical to ours, hot and humid. With school holidays around, the whole city is thick with tourists.

Gingko trees are planted everywhere as the slight of it is as common as our tropical coconut trees being grown extensively in the rural areas. As China is going to host the Olympic Games 2008, the whole place in Beijing gets an extended air of activity. Planning such a worldwide sports event is in itself a major undertaking. Wooden structures are erected at many venues, a stark contrast with the beautiful historic buildings alongside.

23-7-2004 (Friday)
Today is reputed to be the focal point of this tour as we are going to see one of the Eight Wonders of the World. The Great Wall Of China is really great as the total length spans some 6,500 km and was the only visible man-made structure seen by the astronauts who viewed Earth after they set foot on the moon 35 years ago. According to our tour guide Lim, he reckons one would need 500 days to pace the full length of the wall. How about that?

The next significant stop was at the huge royal tombs where late emperors of the Ming dynasty were buried. One of the massive and sprawling imperial tomb was opened for public viewing. It was 18 meters underground and temperature reading dropped to 20 degree celcius as exterior temperature was around 32 degree celcius. There was no spooky feeling as one feel the cool air forcing its way out.

Travelling works up an appetite so we tried the famous Mongolian Hotpot similar to our steamboat. The Mongols introduced their taste of dairy produce, mutton. This is the main ingredient for the firepot. At Tong Lai Shun Restaurant, a Muslim restaurant of over 100 years, it served halal food. The mutton topside meat has beautiful marbled fats and sliced paper-thin. You blanch the meat in a central firepot filled with boiling stock. Eat the cooked meat dipped in a special sauce. It has no gamy taste and the sauce is prepared with a combination of seven ingredients. Comprising sesame peanut sauce, pureed chives' juice, chilli oil, Chinese cooking wine, cooked prawns' oil, fermented white beancurd and soy sauce. Minced Chinese coriander and minced white sections of spring onions can be added if desired. A selection of sliced chicken meat and beef are available too. After this wonderful meal, we had a ride around the city. I noticed many restaurants had signboards which bore a very similar name to the original eatery of Mongolian Hotpot. Can be rather tricky for tourists to work out the true-blue.

24-7-2004 (Saturday)
The climb of many steps leading to the first point of the Great Wall Of China had taken its toll on a fair number of our members, who generally do not do much physical exercises. Today, we may have to struggle and keep pace with ten thousand scores of people who have lined up at the gate entrance to Tian An Men (The Gate Of The Heavenly Peace) for a glimpse of Chairman Mao's Memoriam Museum. Coupled with a weekend and school holidays, the crowd jostled for space with a sea of umbrellas to shelter off the sweltering heat.

It was an amazing afternoon as we walked across the street to view The Forbidden City. This is definitely something not to be missed as this extraordinary huge palace used to be the official residence of former late emperors, queens, concubines and the royal households. It was also the country's administration centre. Official occupancy began during the Ming dynasty and Qing dynasty. It has housed a total of 24 late emperors for a span of 500 years. The total built-up land area is 720,000 sq. meters, has 890 different chambers and a total of 9,000 bedrooms. The inner courts are bared of big trees, mainly because too many birds may perched on tree branches and chirpped noisily besides the disadvantage of being hideaways for assasins. A beautiful Kunming Lake and Longevity Hill formed the serene background. It was the ideal recreation garden for past royals. The United Nationals Educational Scientific And Cultural Organization had obtained an order for China to preserve this splendour as a heritage for the world to see and know the country's rich history and culture. Impressed with the beauty, we were all thankful to have viewed the magnificent building.

In the early evening, we set out for a place to savour tea. Tour guide Lim, ventured to the back portion of the shop where one can order Shanxi noodles but did not look special as it was rather similar to our Malaysian panmeen. Main difference lies in tapioca flour was added to the dough, to give it a springy touch. The cook's skill in slicing the dough was incredible. His left hand moulded a dough and placed it on his left shoulder. His right hand deftly wield a special-designed knife to shred at the dough with amazing speed. Fine, lengthy noodles flew their way into a pot of boiling water nearby, never missing a single strand. Scalded noodles are drained and mixed with a braised stock, garnished with some condiments like Chinese celery, chilli oil and taupan sauce (bean sauce).

According to Lim, cooks of olden days were shaved bald and wore white caps to perform this feat. The doughs were placed on their heads then. This art calls for terrific skills.
Evening was free of activities so Mrs. Sia Say Tee, her daughter Boon Chin, daughter-in-law Chai Ching, son-in-law Mr. Chu Tiong An, Richard & I decided to enjoy a trishaw ride. We employed three trishaws to roam around. Finally, we barged into a Shanxi restaurant for supper. The Northern cuisine is noted for its spicy noodles, floral-coiled noodles, saucy pig's ears, saucy pig's trotter, spicy eight wonders sauce, Chinese escargots, skewered mutton meat and a pot of good brewed tea. The coiled noodles was interesting as the noodle strips was placed in dimsum baskets to steam. The surface looked like a bee's nest and you pick up the strands to eat with a unique mushroom sauce. Condiments of pickled cucumbers, carrot strips and minced garlic made it all the better. Cost came to £88.00 or RM44.00. This is a terrific deal at an inexpensive price.

25-7-2004 (Sunday)
After a simple breakfast at the hotel, out coach driver took us to the southern edge to view The Temple of Heaven. The land area is outrageous, a total of 2.73 million sq. meters, probably tripled the size of 'The Forbidden City'. The origins of this place dates back to the time for sacred prayers performed by the former emperors since 1420. Yearly, they will pray for adequate rain for agricultural crops growth, bountiful harvests reaped and well-being for their royal families. After this, we had a Hutong (lane) tour on trishaws, viewed the a factory that produces Jing-Tai-Lan (Cloisonne Ware), The Confucian Temple and The Big Bell Temple where the copper bells are reckoned to be the largest in the world.

Dinner was served at a Sichuan restaurant, not far from our resident hotel. The food is authentic as it had the strong spices and was mouth-burning. Hot taste is associated with Sichuan cooking as their Mapo Taufu, Twice-cooked Pork had us breaking out in sweats. Another dish named 'Fish Cooked In Water' sounded simple enough. The cook heated up some oil to stir-fry Sichuan peppercorns, dried chillies and spring onion till aromatic. In goes the beansauce, Sichuan peppercorn powder and fiery hot small peppers. Water was added in for flavours to fused together. Live fish was sliced into pieces and cooked in the above concoction. The cooked fish slices were removed and placed in a big bowl. Hot oil was drizzled in and Chinese celery was scattered on top. The waitress removed all surplus chillies and peppercorns before serving it to us. Fish was sweet and smooth textured, it must have been a good beansauce as it smelled fragrant. But the spicy degree had deaden our tastebuds momentary. This preponderance of hot, spicy food has its roots in history as geographical factor of Sichuan is bonded by mountain ranges and the climate is cold.

26-7-2004 (Monday)
It rained in the middle of the night and cleared the hot air. With a wet morning, all roads were choked with traffic. At midday, we were whisked to this Archery Watchtower over the Qian Gate. This gate was right in front of Tian An Men as it was built on good fengshui area. An hour later, we proceeded to a lecture hall. A fengshui master gave us some insights on good omen. Naturally, we all bought some decorative pieces as it may nurture good blessings.

Unquestionably the most famous Beijing roast duck restaurant is Quanjude. With 140 years of survival, it must bear some good testimony of truth. Chef Huang Yong Qi has worked here for 20 years and over. We listened to his theory of a good roast. The duck's (a special breed) cavity is filled with water before putting it to roast. A special piece of fruity tree wood is embedded in the stomach cavity to seal the opening. It goes through a colouring process before being roasted in wood-fired ovens. This is no ordinary wood but comes from the date trees as it produces a special aroma. Water retained in the ducks helps to maintain the moist meat whilst the exterior is roasted to a crisp with succulent taste. In Beijing, there are an uncountable number of shops selling this delicacy but only Quanjude reigns supreme.

At 2.30p.m, we left Beijing city to Chengde, a city 250 km away. This was a popular retreat for the royals to hunt and the famous Summer Villa is situated here. Due to the rainy weather, our four hours journey had prolonged to seven hours. At 9.30p.m, we finally reached the destination. Dinner was some game meat but we preferred the spud dish. It was potatoes shredded and deep-fried.

Next, it was immersed into a golden thick syrup. You picked up a piece of the sugar coated potato and soaked it in icy cold water. The sugar coagulates instantly into a sweet mass but taste was superb.

27-7-2004 (Tuesday)
The market near the hotel was a hive of activity at early six in the morning. The morning air was cool and crisp, we decided to peek at what they have to offer for early birds. At the end of the street was a little shop that had stacks of fried pancakes filled with either chives, cabbages or gherkins. The unassuming eatery served this delicious pancake with a vinegared dip, something to soothe away the heatiness. It is best to eat it with millet, green beans porridge or barley, millet porridge. Pretty refreshing to have a bowl of hot porridge in the early morning, probably, this is what draws the crowds.

Chengde local tour guide, Ms Zhang took us to view the Summer Villa, a former retreat for the royals from the extreme heat. What a sheer-coincidence, the fliming industry people were making a film here. We watched some film-shooting before ascending to our next destination, the Putuozongcheng Temple. As Ms Zhang led the way up, our group diminished in size. Not everyone is able to walk the length and breadth of 27 storeys high places. A quick lunch was eaten before we headed back to Beijing by coach.

Enjoyed the evening stroll to Wangfujing Street, this place is jammed with unique stuff. 88 food stalls rivalled for attention and we can’t believed what food was put up for consumption. Deep-fried scorpions, maggots, sea-urchins, blacken smelly taufoo, fried tripes and mutton offals' soups were just some of the food-ware. This is a fear factor challenge as we tried a little of each. The taste was a different story as it was crunchy and quite a delight. Another shop sold wantan soup and baked biscuits. Nothing special as the taste was very ordinary.

28-7-2004 (Wednesday)
Very early this morning, we left the hotel to view the underground city of Beijing. A maze-like structure that has a spider web network layout, deemed longer in length than 'The Great Wall Of China'. This is a man-made place and only a small portion is kept opened for public viewing. We journeyed on to Tianjin, a city, two hours ride away. At a legendary pau shop, we tasted the superb paus. You dipped them in vinegar or chilli oil and the fillings in the paus are either meat or seafood. Long queues are a common slight here.

Tianjin is a place breaming with fine jade ornaments, antiques, cheongsam clothings, tea leaves, tea brewing sets. You can find anything associated with Chinese handicraft at this culture street right in the city hub. It was enjoyable as every item was dirt cheap.


29-7-2004 (Thursday)
Did some last minute shopping for clothes at the famous 'Women Street'. It was a hurry-burry shopping as we had to proceed to the airport. Had lunch at a restaurant with a wacky name. The name of this place makes imagination soar as it is known as 'The Jin San Yuan Pazhulian'. They sell a brew of 33 herbal ingredients and the cooked pig's head is infused in for taste to develop. Later, the head is removed and sliced into pieces. A wrapper made from cornflour is used to wrap the sliced meat, spring onion and beansprouts. After folding the wrapper into a neat fold, dip it into a special sauce before eating. Quite unusual a dish as it is tasty.

Eight days a trip is too short for us to cover such a vast city. We had only been introduced to the tip of the iceberg of Chinese cuisine. What we have sampled may only be a fraction of the glory of the cuisine as good cooking has always been an intergral part of Chinese culture.

北京/承德/天津逍遥行
2004年7月22日（星期四）
上午九时，以愉快的心情搭乘马航，直飞一个我们向往已久的古都，中国的首都北京。同行还有十一位餐饮业朋友，另加两对各自报名的团友共十七位。

坐了６个小时的飞机，终於到达北京国际机场。北京有１万６千８百平方公里，人口一千六百万，与我国人口接近。没有时差，只不过夏天昼长夜短，早上４点多天已亮，而晚上８点天才黑。北京气候有四季之分，七月是夏天，和我国气温大同小异，而当地正放暑假，是旅游旺季。这里到处都可看到银杏树（白果树），所以白果对北京人就像我们的椰子一般普遍。历史悠久的古老建筑到处可见；与为了迎接２００８年奥运会而到处大兴土木的现代设施，形成强烈对比。

2004年7月23日（星期五）
第二天进入行程首个景点，游览世界八大奇观之一，全长６千５００公里的万里长城。导游小林说：“跑完万里长城需五百多天。”由月球往地球看，万里长城是唯一被认的建筑物。过後，参观明朝地下宫殿，皇帝十三陵之一的定陵，所谓‘陵’就是皇帝的坟墓。这是目前唯一被发现及开放供参观的皇陵，深十八米的地下宫殿冬暖夏 凉，当天温度三十二度，陵内气温大约二十度，湿度奇高，凉风一阵阵由内往外吹。

来到北京，我们当然不忘一尝这里的著名美食。傍晚，我们到一间具有百多年历史，著名的‘东来顺’享用涮羊肉。东来顺是一间穆斯林餐馆，没卖猪肉。肥瘦相间的羊腿肉以机械切得薄如纸，夹一把羊肉片放入炭烧铜火锅内涮一涮即熟透，将熟透的羊肉片放入沾酱。羊肉特别鲜嫩，毫无膻味，沾上混合的沾酱入口芳香，非常可口。沾酱是以七种酱料混合而成，计有芝麻花生酱、韭菜花汁、辣椒油、绍兴酒、虾油、腐乳及生抽，再加点芫荽碎及葱白碎混匀。除了羊肉片之外，还有鸡肉片及牛肉片可选择。

上车之后，我们沿途看到西来顺，兰来顺，北来顺，又一顺，XX顺，无数采用‘顺’字做招牌的涮羊肉餐馆，这些餐馆大概都沾到些光吧！

2004年7月24日（星期六）
行动方便是到中国旅游条件之一。经过一天爬万里长城及参观帝皇陵後，平时鲜少运动的团友开始喊脚酸。隔天一早，导游小林带领我们到世界最大的天安门广场参观，适逢星期六及当地学校假期，只见数以千计的人潮撑着阳伞在天安门广场前大排长龙，排队两个小时以进入毛泽东主席纪念馆。

由天安门广场步行进入隧道越过马路，穿过红色城墙进入紫禁城。 紫禁城现称故宫，位于北京市中心，是过去皇帝及后妃生活起居和处理朝政之处，华丽的宫殿先後有明、清两朝24位皇帝在此居住，统治中国近500年。紫禁城占地72万平方米，各式宫殿890座，房屋9千多所。宫内看不到大树，据说不允许有小鸟在树上吱喳乱叫及避免刺客藏身。故宫后门紧接颐和园，在1998年被联合国教科文化组织列为世界文化遗产，被称为中国众多古典园林之首，内有多棵数百年古树、昆明湖及万寿山，是古时候候皇家休闲的花园。

傍晚在一间茶叶专卖店喝过茶後，小林安排我们到茶坊后座餐厅享用晚餐。其中一道刀削面，看似板面，不同点在搓面粉时加入薯粉使面团富弹性。只见厨师左手将擀至结实的面团放在左肩，右手以一把特制的削刀熟练地将面团削至细长，面条准确无误飞入沸腾的滚水内。不一会，烫到熟透的刀削面被捞起放入一大碗内，淋上卤汤再放些芹菜，吃时可配些辣椒油或豆板酱。小林说：“以前厨师剃光头，带上白帽後将面团放在头顶，双手如飞一刀刀熟练地削面，功夫一流。”

晚上自由活动，我们与施太、文君、采芹及朱先生分乘三辆人力三轮车到附近超市逛，过後误打误撞进入一间山西人开的餐馆吃宵夜，店名是‘一家人食府’。我们点了山西辣拌莜面、莜面卷、酱猪耳、酱猪手、辣酱八宝、 福寿螺、羊肉串及一壶上等龙井茶。莜面卷是一卷卷薄薄的面皮整齐地排在一个点心小蒸笼内蒸熟，由上面往下看好像蜂巢一般，卖相极佳。以筷子夹起一卷，沾上冬菇酱、酸醋青瓜、红萝卜丝及蒜米碎，味道很特别。这一餐只费88圆人民币，相等於马币44零吉，非常值得。

2004年7月25日（星期日）
北京游进入了第四天，在酒店用过简单早餐後，司机小杨将我们载到位於北京城南端的天坛公园。这个公园面积大约273万平方米，相等於故宫三倍大，是古代帝皇祭天、祈雨及祈求五谷丰收的圣洁之地。之後集体乘人力三轮车游览胡同、参观景泰蓝琉璃厂、去孔庙祭拜孔子、到大钟寺参观世界最大铜钟等。

晚餐，我们被安排到住宿酒店附近一间非为旅客而设的川菜馆用餐。这里的麻婆豆腐及回锅肉等麻辣菜令大家吃得满头大汗。我们另外点了一道‘水煮鱼’，厨师将花椒、辣椒乾及葱一起加入热油里大火炒香後，加入豆板酱、花椒粉、辣椒粉及小辣椒，再倒入水煮 滚，加入切片的活鱼煮熟後盛入大碗内，淋上滚烫的辣椒油，再撒点香菜即上桌。服务生将多余的辣椒干及花椒粒捞起，大家即大快朵颐。鱼肉鲜甜幼滑、豆板酱咸中带香、花椒令舌根麻痹、辣椒乾刺激食欲、加上香菜中和，整桌人大喊够绝！

2004年7月26日（星期一）
半夜下了一场大雨，早晨细雨绵绵，空气变得清新。路上多处积水，每条进入市区的公路皆严重堵车。第五天上午参观正阳门箭楼，它是故宫城墙正门，在天安门广场之前，也是风水之门。一个小时後，我们在此听国家级风水大师畅谈北京风水。入宝山岂能空手回，离开时手上多了数件风水宝物。

午餐到享誉140年，北京最著名的全聚德享用北京烤鸭。在职20多年的总厨王荣起金牌大师傅将鸭子灌满水後以果木封肚，上色後挂在枣木为燃料的火炉内烘烤至熟。王荣起师傅说：“枣木让烤熟的鸭子别有风味，灌水的作用是使鸭子烤好时外乾内湿。”烤鸭在北京到处比比皆是，到北京吃正宗烤鸭，指明全聚德。

下午2点半离开北京，往250公里外的承德出发，承德是古代皇帝打猎及避暑的地方。雨，依然在下，四个小时车程花了七个小时，到达目的地时已是晚上九点半。野味是这里的特色，满桌佳肴，我们独爱马铃薯（土豆）拔丝。将切块马铃薯炸熟，另将粗糖煮溶至金黄色，加入炸薯块捞匀上碟。将一块薯块浸入冷水中，黏黏的糖丝遇冷顿时凝结结实及脆口，味道超好。

2004年7月27日（星期二）
在承德的早晨6点天气凉爽，酒店旁的菜市场已经闹轰轰，我们信步到街尾一间小食店一尝地道的当地早点。这间小店现做现煎的煎饼有韭菜、包菜、菜瓜三种不同馅料。食用时点上黑醋，可以中和煎炸的火气；再配一碗大米绿豆粥及炸菜丝，或薏米大米粥，将整个胃装得暖烘烘。

地陪小张带着我们到避暑山庄游览，当地拍摄队伍正在取景，连续集还珠格格的烟雨楼及漱芳斋均在此。接着到小布达拉宫，高27层楼的阶级才能到顶，小张一路在前面领，跟在后头的团友却越跟越少。午餐后，我们打道回府到北京。

夜晚，漫步在北京市著名的王府井步行街。这里货品琳琅满目，吸引我们的是一排长长的东华门美食坊，88个小食档整齐地排开，挤满人潮。稀奇古怪的小食如炸蝎子，炸蚕蛹，炸海星，黑色的臭豆付，爆肚羊杂汤等挑战你的勇气。我们各种都试一些，味道并没想象中那么恐怖，炸蝎子香脆可口，炸蚕蛹味道像炸鸡，臭豆腐很有咬劲，而爆肚则骚得难以入口。接着到街头一间导游小林推荐的‘馄饨侯’馄饨专买店试了不同口味的馄饨及烧饼，味道一般。

2004年7月28日（星期三）
隔天一早，我们到藏在一个豪不起眼民宅的北京地下城参观。通道星罗棋布如蜘蛛网的地下城长度比地面上的万里长城还长，是以民工挖掘的防空洞，现在只开放一部分给旅客参观。过后到离北京两个小时车程的天津。我们到闻名的“南市狗不理饱铺”享用狗不理包子。一盘十个狗不理包子，分肉馅包及三鲜包，沾上醋及辣椒油，一口一个，味道奇佳，难怪大排长龙。买手信、玉器古董、旗袍、茶叶茶具、手工艺品，天津的文化街，货品多而价钱相宜，最值得买。

2004年7月29日（星期四）
最后一天，细雨纷飞下到北京女人街，做最后一场血拼买丝绸衣服。离开北京之前到靠近机场，一间获奖无数，得到当地高官显要垂青的“金三元扒猪脸”餐馆用午餐。侍者将半边以三十种草药焖五小时的猪头切片，取一片放在玉米面皮上，再加入青蒜及豆芽包起，吃时沾上特制酱料，这也是导游小林特别推荐的一道美食，果然很有特色。

时间太短，北京太大，八天七夜北京走马看花当充电，难得的是有缘与数位餐饮业行家同行，品尝美食后交流，让味蕊进一步提升。

KLCC Twin Towers Skybridge 吉隆坡双峰塔

Bird's eye-view of the city from the SKYBRIDGE

To get an aerial view of Kuala Lumpur, go up to the Skybridge on the 41st floor of the Petronas Twin Towers.

Number of storeys: 88

Overall height: 452 metres above street level

Location of the sky bridge: Levels 41 and 42

Length of the sky bridge 58.4 metres

Admission FREE to the public.

Open Tuesdays-Sundays 9:00am - 5:00pm
(except for Friday from 1:00 - 2:30pm) even on Public Holidays.
Mondays are closed except for Public Holidays and School Holidays (half day 9:00am - 12noon).

攀上国油双峰塔
楼层总数88层
高度:1,483尺 (452米)

塔桥位于第41及42层楼
塔桥长度:58.4米

免费开放于公众人士参观
星期二至星期日:上午九时至下午五时(星期五下午一时至二时三十分休息)

星期一休息(除了公共假期及学校假期开放时间上午九时至中午十二时)

Crab Roe Stock Pau 蟹黄灌汤包

Sipping Juicy Stock Filled In Paus

Bugis Junction in Victoria Street, Singapore, is a bustling shopping mall with a winning look. Our Singapore friend, Cindy brought us here to have a meal at a Shanghai outlet where authentic Shanghai-style dimsum is its hallmark. Well, it has to be good as the parent shop in Shanghai, China, has been established for 130 years. The place has an ambience of tastefully done wood-based decor. Once you are well-seated, you can catch the three chefs from China in combat action through glass window casings, churning out " glutinous rice siew mai". Call this a show kitchen as it allows you to watch the chefs working with nimble fingers and deft hands.

Cindy ordered the signature pleasers of Crab Roe Stock Pau, Elm Fungus Siew Loong Pau, Kwah Fah Kuih, Savoury Cashewnut Flakes, Pumpkin Biscuits, Yangchow Fried Rice, Chicken and Ribs Tureen.

Very piping – hot Shanghainese steamed dumplings came, each in a bamboo basket. Now, this siew loong pau is not a small serve but rather the size of a normal taipau. The edges of the paus were neatly pleated, leaving an opening in the center. A straw was provided for each diner to sip out the superior stock within the delicate skin. Isn’t this a rather novel treat in savouring a pau?

Cindy warned us to be careful as the stock is of a very hot degree. It proved a flavourful sip as the stock had shredded conpoy and crab roe but after the drink up, the pau was empty of other ingredients. A good question popped up. How did the stock filled the interior? Well, the superior stock were frozen into big cubes and placed onto dough circle before wrapping. As the paus got steamed, the frozen cubes melted away. How innovative chefs could be!

Kwah Fah Kuih is worth a try as I enjoyed every bite of this springy textured snack. Bringing good taste sensations to the diner is a foremost issue in the competitive restaurant scene in Singapore. Old favourites and new innovations add interest to the dimsum scene. So the next time you are around this part of town, take the opportunity to enjoy Shanghainese dimsum as the food served here is impressive.

以吸水管吃包

新加坡维多利亚路的Bugis Junction设计新颖，采光设备良好，是一个赢得设计奖项的现代化购物商场。

我们随着当地的代理欣蒂到一间总店在上海，拥有130年历史背景的“南翔馒头店”享用下午茶。环境卫生是新加坡餐馆的共同点，这间餐馆也不例外。清一色板凳木桌，简单装潢看了舒服。玻璃橱窗内三名中国厨师以熟练手法在制做小巧玲珑的“糯米烧卖”，为这间小食店加分。

欣蒂点了这里的招牌点心“蟹黄灌汤包”、“松茸小笼包”及“桂花拉糕”，另外点了“椒盐腰果酥”、“南瓜饼”、“杨州炒饭”及“草鸡肉排盅”。

每个小竹笼只装一个外型像大包的“蟹黄灌汤包”，整齐的折纹中央留了一个小孔，还附上一根吸水管。原来这包是以吸的方式享用，够神奇吧？

欣蒂提醒：[小心烫！]

以吸水管插入包内，干贝丝及蟹黄夹杂在鲜甜的汤汁通过透明的吸水管进入口中，滚烫程度接近沸腾，这是我们首次以吸水管吸包。一面担心被烫着，一面充满好奇猜想里面还装着什馅料？汤汁吸干后将包皮撕开一看，里面空空如也。如何将汤包在包子内？做法是将上汤、蟹黄及干贝丝冷冻后以面团包成包子蒸熟即可。

味道清香的“桂花拉糕”黏盘不黏口，口感好像麻糍但更有弹性，令我们大为赞赏。到南翔不可不点这令国家首长也着迷的小点。

Y3K39 - Otak-Otak In Johor Bahru 新山乌达

The Real Mc Coy Of Otak-Otak
The Best Is Still In Johor Bahru

Otak-otak, a Nyonya snack is a favourite with many people. Available in many Nyonya restaurants, food stalls, food courts or sold by mobile food vendors, it is a delicious food find.
This snack is generally made with wolf herring fish (ikan parang) or Spanish mackerel (ikan tenggiri). The blended fish paste is mixed with diluted coconut milk, eggs, fragrant lime leaves shredded and seasoning. Spice paste is a combination of shallots, garlic, fresh turmeric, galangal, lemon grass, fresh red chillies and candlenuts. These ingredients are ground to a fine paste before being sautéed till aromatic. It is dished into the seasoned fish paste and mixed well. In the northern states, this spicy fish paste is normally heaped onto cut-out banana leaves. Each portion is topped with a piece of wild daun kadok and shaped into longish packages or pyramid shaped folds. All packages are steamed till fish paste is cooked through. As the portion can be fairly large, it is usually shared by two persons. But in the southern states, the fish paste is spread in the middle of a palm leaf, covered with another palm leaf and the ends fastened with toothpicks or staples. Grilling takes a couple of minutes and one can easily eat as many as 10 wraps. This has become an attraction food particularly in Muar.

But our real food find of this snack lies in Johor Bahru. We have been regulars to this place for the last 20 over years and the taste has remained consistent. Their otak-otak stall used to be along Jalan Tebrau but shifted to its present premises in Jalan Storey since 1986. Present boss Chung Wei Sun is the second generation descendant to run this family’s 30 year-old business. I remembered him as a young lad, always keen to give his papa a helping hand. But as the years drifted, this lad is now a middle-age man continuing the family’s trade. Prices of the snack is a steal as fish paste otak-otak is only 40 cents but fish head otak-otak costs 50 cents. Daily, they can sell a few thousand rolls as it is enjoyed by all races.

Each time I come home to Johor Bahru, this place has food charm. I would usually make my way here in the morning for a breakfast fix of otak-otak and mee Siam. As you unwrap the roll, the aroma can send you drooling. A lot of hawkers compromise quality and you get flat and dry grilled fish paste but here you can be rest assured of quality and quantity. Plump and luscious, each roll is as tasty as otak-otak can get. The otak-otak lends the mee Siam a spicy, moist flavour and the duo makes a rather interesting combination. Look around and you will see each table being laden with a mound of discarded palm leaves.

Business here starts early, from 6 a.m to 12 p.m and Tuesday is their day of rest. When you come here, there is no need for an inspection tour. You can order the same food as what I have recommended with your eyes closed and it will still be good. Trust me, have a nice eat.

Otak Shiduoli
No.78, Jalan Storey, 80300 Johor Bahru,

Johor. Tel: 019 - 7126886
07 - 2235340

新山乌达

乌达是娘惹小食之一，除了在娘惹餐厅可以享用到这道小食，本地某些大排档、美食中心（食物不一定美味）及路边摊也可看见售卖乌达的小贩。

一般上乌达是以西刀鱼或马鲛鱼作为主要材料，将鱼肉打烂后参入浓椰浆、鸡蛋、麻疯柑叶及调味料，再加入打烂炒香的香料如葱头、蒜头、黄姜、蓝姜、香茅、红辣椒及石古仔拌匀。北马乌达以香蕉叶包裹，里面置一片山佬叶后包成长方形或锥形后蒸熟，份量较大，可以供两人以上食用；而南马乌达则以少许乌达料置于两片椰叶之间包裹成荷包状后，放在火炭炉上烧烤至熟，一个人可以吃超过十枝以上，这种乌达在麻坡最为普遍。

在新山有一间我们光顾了超过二十年的乌达专卖店，三十年前在直不佬路交通警察局前开始营业，1986年搬迁到交通警察局后士多利路一间单层角落店屋至今。看着他由小孩子开始即在店内帮父亲捧茶烧乌达，目前已经超过三十岁的第二代老板荘伟山告诉我们：『鱼肉乌达卖40仙，鱼头乌达50仙，一天可以售卖数千枝，顾客三大民族都有。』

每次回到新山，早餐一定想起这里的乌达。喜欢这里的乌达是因为将现烧现卖，烤得有点焦的椰叶打开一刹那，看到涨鼓鼓的乌达冒起一阵淡淡的蒸气，一股带有椰叶的清香新鲜乌达味引得口水不听使唤往外直流。烤得熟度恰到好处的乌达与一般椰叶乌达不同之处是：一般上的乌达包得扁扁，烘烤时水份大多被蒸发；能够让我们念念不忘的乌达吸引力在于只有一般乌达长度的一半，然而厚度却有一倍，烤熟时还能保持其湿润度。乌达与炒米暹是早餐的最佳配搭，两口米暹配一枝乌达，吃完一盘米暹时桌上椰叶已堆成一座小山，每桌如是。

伟山提醒：『星期二休息，早上六点卖到中午十二点。』迟来者只好望门兴叹。

Restoran Loon Sing 隆盛佛跳墙大酒家

Spurred On By Challenges
The New Era Of Restoran Loon Sing

The Chinese have an expression phrase literally meaning, "The predecessor had a tough time building-up the family business but the successor does not have an easy time maintaining the inheritance."

This is an ingenious way of expressing how Chef Sia Boon Kong felt when he had to run the restaurant after his father’s demise (late Chef Sia Say Tee) some four years ago. Other restaurateurs sneered at this young man and most had no word of encouragement for him. He worked very energetically as he felt rather humiliated. No one had a thought that he could rise from ashes. He may not outshine his late father’s achievements but Boon Kong has the same trait. He is rather far-sighted and decided it is time to emerge from the kitchen. He bought six acres of land in Nilai and constructed a grand looking restaurant to cater for normal dining, wedding celebrations, huge conferences or a venue for big gatherings.

This spacious restaurant is elegant with seating capacity for 1,600 people (160 tables). As he is prepared to see it as a long-term investment and his passion for the food industry has given him the extra energy to withstand all the grind and grit. Other tradesmen now start to see him from a different angle.

The classy Chinese restaurant has superb concocted creations. Apart from their signature dishes like "Monk Jumps Over The Wall" and "Wine Residue Dong Por Roh", Boon Kong has been dishing out "Pan-fried Lamb Ribs". The simple yet luscious dish of lamb was not well-received initially but now customers return for the same dish as they have learned to appreciate the taste.

We tasted the imported lamb ribs and liked the tender meat oozing with juice. The best point is the no gamy smell as it is a plus factor. Generally in Western dining, hot oil is being poured over the lamb chops or ribs to seal in the juices. The chef improvised on the marinade by using cumin and chilli powder before panfrying them till cooked. It had a burst of flavours with juice retained. We also liked the dish of "Red-braised Pork Knuckle" which had a crunch like sea cucumbers.

The delicious result was simply a display of the chef’s skill. Actually, it was a good gourmet meal!

RESTORAN LOON SING SDN. BHD.
PT 2484, Kws. Perindustrian Nilai 2,
Block D, 71800 Nilai, N.S.D.K.
Tel: 06-799 7787/ 7808/ 7818
Fax: 06-799 3369
Business Hours:
11am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm

新隆盛开张了

对生意的人，“创业难守业更难”这句话一点也不假。施文康四年前接手父亲留下来的隆盛佛跳墙大酒家，行内及行外人冷言冷语多于支持，压力只有自己知。当时面临守业或扩充两种抉择，文康毅然选择后者，将该酒家进一步扩充，在汝来买下六亩工业地，短短的四年内兴建一座富丽堂皇的宴会厅兼餐馆，令许多同行大跌眼镜之后对他另眼相看。

这间新餐馆环境优美不在话下，菜色推陈出新才是重点。除了延续该酒家招牌菜“福州佛跳墙”及“酒糟东坡肉”之外，文康在百忙之中不断出国观摩及研究新菜，再将这些新菜推荐给顾客。最近该餐馆推出的一道“南煎小羊排”倍受欢迎。文康强调：「开始介绍顾客这道新菜，大多数顾客会排斥，但是试过之后一再回来，你试过就知。」

纽西兰进口的小绵羊排肉质鲜甜多汁，最重要的是没有骚味。一般西式高级餐厅做法是先将羊排以滚油淋下封锁外层，这样一来烘烤时里面的汁不会流失，保持鲜嫩度。隆盛的中式羊排以少许小茴及辣椒粉腌一腌后煎熟，却一样能够保持羊排内的鲜汁，实在难得。另外一道新菜“红烧元蹄”卖象完美无缺，肉焖得软硬适中而不腻，最难得的是胶质十足，口感如海参。

在施文康领航之下的新隆盛环境优美、食物可口、价格公道，隆盛再次展翅高飞！

The British Club in Singapore 武吉知马山的不列癫俱乐部

Absolutely Tender Beef Steak
Melts In The Mouth Variety

Over the last few years, Singapore has been building up its reputation on the food scene. As palates get more adventurous and with easy access to high-end supplies, many restaurant chefs have emerged with new creative menu. When in Singapore, do as the Singaporeans do, as we met up with our former boss, Mr. Lee Min, who introduced our family to his favourite retreat, The British Club. This club has established itself for over 25 years, built along the Bukit Tinggi stretch. There is a commanding view as this hilltop is the second highest point above sea level after Bukit Timah.

Mr. Lee is a regular member here as he enjoys the club’s facilities. Being well-equipped for leisure activities, it also boasts of five different dining concepts. The club becomes an ideal venue for Mr. Lee to entertain friends and he invited us to a treat at the Western grill. Interior of the restaurant was decorated in a British setting.

We got to know the Executive Sous Chef - Kelvin Lee, a Muar boy. This restaurant had put together a creative menu using some special ingredients. It was apparent in the dishes of steaks presented. Though it looked simple yet it was exquisite as the main meat came from the cow’s cheeks. Only a small selection was made available to diners as cows do not have many cheeks to cater to the vast number of being the most-ordered steaks on the menu.

As we cannot face rare meat with blood drips, we had to settle for what most steak lovers would stay away from, well-done steaks. It came looking slightly singed at the edges accompanied with condiments like mashed potatoes, brown sauce, grilled tomato, big juicy spears of asparagus and fresh tarragon. I found my steak delicious and seared to tender perfection. This must be the most tender steak I have tasted and once again, do not forget I ordered it well-done. Of course I have raved about many Western restaurants capable of offering good steaks during my many food reviews but the fare served here deserved my unreserved recommendation.

Sourcing fresh produce alone for the restaurant’s kitchen is not enough as you need a good chef to incorporate elements of good cooking and fuse ingredients with techniques to become winning entries. I am much impressed with the optimum texture of good beef cuts and would not overlook this meat the next time but may splurge on it.

The British Club
73 Bukit Tinggi Singapore 289761.
Tel: 02-6467 4311 Fax: 02-6468 6161
E-mail: enquiries@britishclub.org.sg

特色牛脸扒

这次到新加坡，我们与住在新加坡武吉知马的前老板李明约好吃午餐。在他带路之下，我们到座落于武吉知马山的不列癫俱乐部。武吉知马山是新加坡海拔最高的山，而这个有25年历史的俱乐部建于该山的第二高峰山顶，设备一应俱全。

李明是这里的会员，经常与朋友到这里聚餐。俱乐部有五间餐馆，各有特色，其中温沙餐馆的设计带有浓厚的英国风味。出生于马来西亚柔佛州麻坡的厨师李凯文向我们推荐以牛脸颊鲜料理的牛扒。李明说：[由于一头牛只得两块脸颊，这种牛肉供应量很少，非常抢手，你们运气好才有机会品尝。]

我们不敢吃血淋淋的牛扒，要求凯文给我们准备全熟的牛扒。纯白色的餐盘里，拳头般大小的牛扒煎至外头有点焦，平稳地趟在细滑的马铃薯泥上，淋上自制黄褐酱后再佐以烤蕃茄、芦笋及俄力冈，散发出来的香味及卖相让人口水直流。切一小片肉，沾少许黄褐酱送入口中，外层够香内层多汁，牛扒的纤维非常细腻，简直可以用入口即化来形容。我们曾经在大酒店、高级餐厅及著名西餐厅吃牛扒次数不少，这可是我们有史以来品尝到最可口的牛扒。

好的材料还须有好的厨师以最恰当的方式料理才不会暴殄天物。这一餐让我们对牛扒的看法改观。

Wonder Way Cooking Contest 万特威烹饪比赛

Showcase-cum-competition



Wonder Way Marketing Sdn. Bhd. held a cooking competition on 4-11-2007(Sunday) near their Kuala Lumpur premises. Ten entries emerged and each entry had a display of two partners. The event drew 250 guests and had the hall packed to the brim.



Organising chairman Mr. Raymond Lee felt such competition can be healthy as it not only churn out good recipes but can bond family relations as well in the event of partnership.

A panel of three judges comprised of the Y3K team, namely Catherine Chia, Chef Sia Boon Kong and Alan Ooi. They had a good time all for a good cause. The highlight of the day was a showcase by Chef Sia. He had the crowd’s applauses as he displayed his culinary skills. Participants and guests went home happy with gift packs received from numerous sponsors.












别开生面烹饪比赛 促进家人关系

万特威市场有限公司吉隆坡区在4-11-2007（星期日）举办一场别开生面的烹饪比赛，吸引十组（每组两人）参赛队伍参与比赛，及两百五十多位观众到场支持。

筹委会主席李建成致开幕词时说：有见于社会压力越来越大，家人之间的沟通越来越少，这次烹饪比赛安排两人一组目的在于促进亲情之间的关系，当然不忘通过正确烹饪方法，以确保家人的健康获得保障。

这场烹饪比赛邀请Y3K饮食顾问施文康大师、执行编辑谢宋美导师及烘焙顾问ALAN OOI 导师担任评审。获得法国御厨、法国厨皇、北京食神等荣誉的施文康大师在大会盛情邀请之下表演厨艺，令到场的观众获益匪浅。这次盛会获得多间商家赞助礼品，个个参与者均满载而归。

Nutritious Food For Expectant Mothers 优孕优生的饮食

By C M Dr. Allen K.M. Pang (Doctor of Chinese Medicine)
Medical Advisor of Xiamen Ren De Hospital
Regional Representative of Nanjing TCM University
President of SEL & KL Association of China Graduated Chinese Physicians
Guest Lecturer of Hong Kong Wah Ha TCM College
Director Jiangxi TCM University Malaysia Tutoring Centre
Vice Chairman (Overseas) of Xiamen TCM & Medicine Promoting Association

Tel: 016-660 3603/ 012-332 0445

e-mail: ortcm@asiamail.com

It is important that a pregnant woman should eat a well-balanced diet that can benefit the foetus to have a wondrous growth. Unborn babies who are malnourished will suffer inadequate brain growth and poor development. Also it is neither wise for her to indulge in heavy alcoholic drinking or take certain drugs without the doctor’s advice as these could have damaging action on the growing baby. In today’s modern world, the nutritional needs of a pregnant woman have been considered in detail. There are many pre-natal diet plans, all with a scientific approach.

1. Early Pregnancy (beginning of pregnancy to 12 weeks)
During pregnancy, a woman may suffer from several discomforts like feeling nauseous, vomitting, cravings for certain foods, dislike oily foods, heartburn, fatigue setting-in. By the end of 12 we0eks, the major foetal organs and external genitials are formed. The average pregnant woman does not need excessive calories but should be more concern on nutrition. As the placenta is formed during the first three months, the mother should eat a diet with more protein and less oil. It is wise to relieve heartburn by eating small meals more frequently at intervals throughout the day rather than large infrequent meals. The food intake should be more on lean meat, fish, eggs, noodles, milk, soybean milk, fresh leafy vegetables, fresh fruits whichever she fancies. But she should steer clear off oily foods, deep-fried items or have spicy meals. Indigestion or constipation can occur as they are both the result of the effect of the hormone known as progesterone which relaxes the muscle fibres. An intake of vitamin B1, B6 can assist in working up an appetite or loosening discomforts but it is best to discuss the matter with your doctor.

2. Middle Stage Of Pregnancy (13 weeks to 27 weeks)
The foetus develops very quickly from this stage and its sex can be distinguished. The internal organs are becoming more mature as the brain, bones and teeth are developed. The mother must consume more phosphorus, calcium, iodine, zinc and vitamins. Protein is much needed for the uterus, placenta and the breasts as colostrum starts to buildup in preparation for feeding. It is quite obvious the mother puts on weight during her pregnancy term. She needs to increase her calorie intake and rice is a good choice. To improve vitality, she should focus on eating more fish, meat, eggs, dairy products, beans, fibrous food, vitamins, leafy vegetables and fruits as these may help to prevent the onset of hypertension or diabetes. Salt intake must be controlled. It is advisable not to take in excess of 15 grams of salt daily but towards the end of the pregnancy, the limit comes to only 10 grams daily. Cod liver oil is good as it builds body defences but do not take anything in excess form.

3. Advanced Stage Of Pregnancy (28 weeks to 40 weeks)
The foetus is soon coming to full term and the mother’s weight gain increases rapidly. The foetus takes oxygen and nutrients from the mother through the placenta cells. That is why the mother should eat food that will restore energy level. Apart from the foods listed above, she can add to her diet, the eating of offals, pig’s blood curd, seafood, bones simmered soup, radish. The new mother can experience some anaemic condition during the last two month of her pregnancy. Folic acid in the mother’s blood tends to fall but she can increase it through the intake of liver, kidneys, red dates, dried longans, dried apricots, dried peaches or por choy(Chinese spinach) for folic acid and iron buildup. She should receive adequate sunlight to buildup some vitamin D as it is an effective source for growth. Fluid intake should be increased to move her bowels frequently and prevents being constipated after childbirth. Foods like lettuce, mustard greens, apples, bananas, grapes, persimmons, brinjals are good as they help to keep the bowels from becoming sluggish.

A word of advice to all new mothers, do not consume green tea as it restricts the growth of new blood vessels in the pregnant woman. This is not good as the placenta needs to receive a large volume of blood from which nutrients are extracted as required by the baby. The increase in the volume of the mother’s blood and the rapid circulation through her blood vessels can be restricted when she drinks a lot of green tea during her pregnancy term.

优孕优生的饮食

孕期的饮食营养，不仅影响到胎儿的正常发育，也关系到出生后婴幼儿的体质和智力。因此，科学地调配妊娠各时期的饮食营养，对优孕、优生有着十分重要的意义。孕期的饮食营养应在多样化的前提下，根据妊娠不同时期胎儿与母体的营养需要，适时科学地调配饮食营养。

1．妊娠前期，即怀孕后1至12周，孕妇往往容易发生轻度的恶心、呕吐、食欲不振、择食、厌油、烧心、疲倦等妊娠反应。此期间由于胎儿的各器官、内脏正处于分化形成阶段。这时期由於胎儿在缓慢生长，需要的热量和营养物质相对较少。因此这个阶段的膳食要以重质量，高蛋白，富营养，少油腻，易消化吸收为其原则。一日可少食多餐，以瘦肉、鱼类、蛋类、面条、牛奶、豆浆、新鲜蔬菜和水果为佳。可选择孕妇平常喜好的食物，但不宜食用油腻、油炸、辛辣等不易消化和刺激性强的食物，以防消化不良或便秘而造成先兆充产。妊娠反应重的可适当加服维生素B1、B6，以帮助增进食欲，减少不适感。

2. 妊娠中期，即怀孕后13至27周，胎儿各系统器官组织迅速发育，体重、身长增长快，需要大量的蛋白质构成自己的肌肉和筋骨，尤其是长骨骼和大脑需要补充大量的磷、钙和一定量的碘、锌及各种维生素；母亲也需要蛋白质供给子宫、胎盘及乳房的发育。母体此时还因胎儿体重的增加体力消耗亦增大，基础代谢比平常人要增加10～20%，对各种营养物质的需求量也相对增多。

此期的饮食营养对母体、胎儿的健康发育非常重要。补充热量，全面营养，易于消化是此期的饮食原则。米是补充热量的主要来源,同时要摄入营养价值高、富含蛋白质的食物，如鱼、肉、蛋类、奶类、豆制品和富含纤维素、维生素的蔬菜水果等。还应多摄入植物性脂肪，这对促进胎儿发育与预防妊娠高血压综合症都有裨益。不要过多地摄入糖类甜食等，以免影响主食的摄入量。还要适当限制盐的摄入，一般每天摄入盐15克左右，在妊娠中、后期要控制在10克左右，减少盐的食入可在某种程度上预防妊娠高血压综合症。从妊娠中期起，可适当服食钙片、鱼肝油，但不可过量。

妊娠后期，即怀孕后28至40周，此期胎儿发育日趋成熟，体重增加很快，向母体索取的营养素更多，并要在体内储存一定量的营养，为出生后独立生活做好准备。而母体也是除供胎儿生长发育所需的营养外，自身还要储备营养，以供给分娩时消耗所需。因而在此阶段孕妇对各种营养物质的需求量更大。

这个时期的饮食原则是食物品种多样，营养更为丰富，饮食中应以蛋白质和碳水化合物为主，除食入主食米、面和含蛋白质丰富的奶类、蛋、肉、鱼类等食物外，还要注意多食入动物肝脏、猪血、海产品、骨头汤、豆制品、新鲜蔬菜、胡萝卜、水果等含钙、铁、磷等微量元素及维生素的食物。

在妊娠的最后两个月，胎儿对铁质的需求量相对较多。在此时若孕妇进食较少，则可出现贫血现象。因此，必然多吃富含铁的食物如肝、肾、红枣、桂圆、桃干、杏干、菠菜等。同时，要注意适当晒太阳，以促进维生素D的合成，利于钙、磷的吸收及胎儿骨骼的生长发育。妊娠后期，往往出现便秘，孕妇除了多吃些油菜、芹菜等含纤维多的蔬菜外，还要多吃些生津清热的水果、蔬菜，如苹果、香蕉、葡萄、西红柿、茄子等。纤维多的食物可增强肠蠕动，生津清热食物可去肠热，并以津液润肠道，利于大便的排出。

要特别一提的是，准妈妈不可喝绿茶。 绿茶在日常生活中是一种有益于身体健康的饮料。但对准妈妈而言，却是碰不得的。 因为绿茶含有会阻止新血管增生的成分。对准妈妈来说，此时正是身体进行新血管增生作用来孕育小宝宝的时候，如果在怀孕时喝绿茶，对胎儿的生长发育会产生不良影响。

彭國民中医师