Bercham, a village in Perak is home to a big Hakka enclave. When visiting Bercham, a meal at the legendary Shine Noodles stall located within the premises of T & V Restaurant is a must. This coffeeshop sits opposite the Public Bank and gets very busy at night. Many locals rave about the egg noodles and wantons sold at the only food stall here. It has created a wanton craze as people jostled for seats on the pavement or fringe of the street. Call this a Malaysian style of simple dining.
Initially, this 40 year-old business started from a trishaw cart and was peddled by senior Yap Kam Seng. He was helped by his spouse as son- Yap Kok King spoke of his father's overall experiences. They moved to this location about 10 years ago and business has flourished pretty well. Six brothers run the stall started by papa who still kneads the dough by hand. Most traders have turned to machinery help in churning out most food products but this group of Yap clan are true artisans of the trade. They are among the handful of skilled workmen we have left.
The wanton skins has been held in high regard as one of the best in town and more of a signature puller than the egg noodles. Apart from this, deep-fried prawn wantons, sui kow dumplings are equally good. Pastry skins are so thin and the actual appeal lies here.
Basically, the process of making noodles and wanton skins do not differ very much. Flour and whole eggs are combined into a dough which goes through the process of repeated folding and rolling. Of course there is some skill needed in the strength used in the kneading process and experience definitely counts. The Yaps were in the news radar when the Perak Tourism Board accorded their food a new status. It has found its way to the good food index list approved by the state.
Both wantons and sui kow dumplings are served in an ikan bilis simmered stock. As the skin is so thin, you can see the filling clearly. Every piece of morsel is freshly made and tastes wonderful. Other melt-in-the mouth crunchies are the deep-fried wantons, prawn wantons and sui kow dumplings. This taste of a somehow good crunch grows on you with each mouthful. Try them out if you come by the village.
Initially, this 40 year-old business started from a trishaw cart and was peddled by senior Yap Kam Seng. He was helped by his spouse as son- Yap Kok King spoke of his father's overall experiences. They moved to this location about 10 years ago and business has flourished pretty well. Six brothers run the stall started by papa who still kneads the dough by hand. Most traders have turned to machinery help in churning out most food products but this group of Yap clan are true artisans of the trade. They are among the handful of skilled workmen we have left.
The wanton skins has been held in high regard as one of the best in town and more of a signature puller than the egg noodles. Apart from this, deep-fried prawn wantons, sui kow dumplings are equally good. Pastry skins are so thin and the actual appeal lies here.
Basically, the process of making noodles and wanton skins do not differ very much. Flour and whole eggs are combined into a dough which goes through the process of repeated folding and rolling. Of course there is some skill needed in the strength used in the kneading process and experience definitely counts. The Yaps were in the news radar when the Perak Tourism Board accorded their food a new status. It has found its way to the good food index list approved by the state.
Both wantons and sui kow dumplings are served in an ikan bilis simmered stock. As the skin is so thin, you can see the filling clearly. Every piece of morsel is freshly made and tastes wonderful. Other melt-in-the mouth crunchies are the deep-fried wantons, prawn wantons and sui kow dumplings. This taste of a somehow good crunch grows on you with each mouthful. Try them out if you come by the village.
怡保巴占新村是一个以客家人为多的新村，每逢晚上，大众银行对面的东旺茶餐室灯火通明，餐桌摆到路上，这也是大马人喜欢坐在路边用餐的习惯使然。茶室只有一档售卖云吞面的小贩在营业，然而顾客却多得不得了，大家只为一尝“东昇全蛋面”的超薄馄饨。
叶镉铨向我们推荐：「面是师傅以手工做的全蛋面，口感爽脆又松心，四十年没改变。」
这个老师傅就是他的父亲，早期与老伴推着三轮车到处叫卖，十年前才搬入这间店内落地生根。今时今日，大多饮食业者已经舍弃讨好却吃力的手工制做面条，六个孩子却很珍惜老爸的手艺，一起合作经营将这硕果仅存的传统手艺保留下来，实在难得。
叶镉铨说：「最出名的不是全蛋面，而是馄饨、虾馄饨皇及水饺，秘诀就在馄饨皮的制做过程！」
馄饨皮和面一样，以面粉及全蛋搅和后，重复不断擀薄，需要很大的耐心及多年经验才有办法擀至半透明状而不破损。也因为这难得的手艺，曾经被该州旅游局选为代表霹雳州的美食之一。
一碗浸在江鱼仔上汤中的馄饨及水饺可以清楚看到里面的馅料，新鲜的食材配上鲜甜的汤头，令人难忘。
如果要感受这馄饨皮的薄度，来一碟炸馄饨、炸虾馄饨皇及炸水饺，只能以入口即化形容其薄及脆！
Shine Noodles (T & V Restaurant ) 353, Jalan Besar Bercham,
Taman Desa Kencana, 31400 Ipoh.
e-mail: kokking84@hotmail.com website:www://geocities.com/shine_noodles
Tel: 012-5025886 Business hours: 6.30pm - 12.00am
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