2010/03/15

Fish-head Braised Teochew-Style






Our friend - Master B E Loh is a Teochew by dialect and simply loves Teochew food. The essence of Teochew cooking lies in using fresh seafood and the simplest ingredients to retain the original integrity of the catch. As in China, their homeland had access to the sea and its produce, Teochews are aware of how fresh quality, texture, flavour should be.

Master Loh wanted to show us a place which serves authentic Teochew fish-head. An opportunity came and we visited this place known as Restoran Chiew Sang situated in a suburb of University Garden, Petaling Jaya.

It may lacked the sophiscation but the unassuming restaurant located centre place among a row of old shops was packed at lunchtime and can be a popular hangout for many regular customers. Master Loh's friend, William Lee, is another foodie who has given this place his stamp of approval. He told us that this young boss used to helped his father at the bak-kut-teh shop in SS2 several years back. He decided to venture out and started this eatery a couple of years ago. Regulars keep coming back for the no-frills unpretentiously good food. Repeat customers like his quality control of ingredients and consistently good food at reasonable pricing.

Master Loh stressed that Teochew Bak-Kut-Teh and Fish-Head Braised Teochew-Style are two signature points we must not missed out on. The little secret weapon used are those toasted brownish blackish garlic. This type of garlic has a strong smoky aroma but once scalded and sun-dried, it permeates meat, giving it a special perfumed fragrance.

Teochew Bak-Kut-Teh is less herbal compared to the Hokkien version. Our Teochew boss could really whip up a pot of tasty brew. Pig's trotter, pork ribs retained their natural flavour and the stock sweetened with the usage of the toasted garlic. The fish-head dish consisted of fresh garoupa head, braised with minced ginger, toasted garlic, taucheo, red chillies and a lot of other secret ingredients. This dish doesn't look pretty but it was flavourful. The gravy was not too savoury and you can even take it without white rice. And if you can still pack it in, try their Teochew-Steamed Fish, Teochew-Braised Pig's Trotter, Teochew Ham Choy, Lalal and others.

I am happy to note, my throat did not feel parched after the meal which is an indication, they did not use two handfuls of MSG.

罗木勇是潮州人,对潮州美食自然有一股情意结。潮州人对海鲜情有独钟,也很挑剔,不新鲜的别提,处理方式不对或味道太重的别介绍。他推荐一间八打灵再也招牌打着肉骨茶,食客却是为了焖鱼头而来的“新朝生肉骨茶”餐馆。

餐馆在一排老店的中间单位,这里并非旺区,没有过路客,然而中午到达时座无虚席,这些食客都是特地驱车来用餐。罗木勇的朋友李保兴是这里的常客,他说:「年轻的潮州老板以前协助父亲在SS2经营肉骨茶,数年前在SS3现址自立门户,亲自负责烹调工作,所以不论是材料选择、酱料配搭及火喉均拿捏的很准,保持一贯味道。」

罗木勇强调:「 潮州肉骨茶及潮州焖鱼头是这里的招牌菜。他们的秘密武器是火蒜,火蒜原本味道带涩,经热水烫过晒干,可以去涩提鲜,食物味道更加可口。」

肉骨茶原本是本地福建人的专长,在善于改变的老板手里成为该餐馆镇店招牌菜,以火蒜熬的汤底比一般肉骨茶来得清淡,猪脚及排骨都还保留原有的肉香,粉肠软硬适中。新鲜石斑鱼头、姜茸、火蒜茸、面豉、红辣椒等多种香料调味的潮州焖鱼头其貌不扬,看似很咸入口却咸淡适中,即使不配饭也能下肚。

其他选择有潮州蒸鱼、潮州卤猪脚、潮州咸菜、啦啦等。好吃的食物有时调味料下得太重,让人不断喝水,我们吃后不感口渴。


新朝生肉骨茶
Restoran Chiew Sang
15, Jalan SS 3/37,
University Garden, 47300 PJ
Tel: 012-234 1136

Business Hours:
Monday-Sunday 7.30am - 2pm
Saturday & Sunday 6pm - 9pm

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