到肯逸湖充电去！

去年十二月二日，我们一行八人由吉隆坡开车到位于登嘉楼的肯逸湖度假。季候风为东海岸带来大量雨水，渔船停止出海捕鱼，沿海甘榜屋浸在水中，泊油路被高涨的水破坏得千疮百孔。我们在风雨中前进，冒着抛锚的危险渡过被水淹至半个车胎高度的两段路，避过土崩，七个小时后到达瓜拉波浪(Kuala Berang)与另外两位由怡保来的朋友会合。

隔天早上九点抵达肯逸湖发电站，在此登上一艘改装的双层木船。船虽不大，却样样具备，楼下有驾驶舱、厨房、厕所、餐桌及钓鱼台，睡房设于楼上，可以容纳八个人，另外两人睡楼下。我们接下来四天三夜（3/12-6/12）不论是吃饭、睡觉、活动都局限于这小小的空间，相当难以想象。

天开始下起雨来，上午十点我们以时速五公里往湖心目的地出发，手提电话讯号越来越弱，不久后完全没线，与外界完全断绝音讯。下午两点抵达目的地，雨开始转小，周围不见人烟，空气非常清新。船夫将船靠在树林边绑好，我们有点担心，不仅问：这里有野兽吗？领队阿顺哈哈大笑说：有老虎，也有大象！看来我们是多虑了。

阿顺不但充当发起人、领队、钓鱼专家，同时整个行程的膳食都由他一手包办。在船往湖心开的当儿，他可没闲着，船一靠岸，我们的午餐“咖喱面”已准备妥当。不知是他的厨艺好还是我们肚子饿，一大锅咖喱被扫一空。

在这里度假必须有心理准备：将平时忙碌的生活调慢，在与外界完全脱离联系的环境下爱做什么就做什么。钓鱼发烧友餐后开始抛钓垂钓，有些团友到楼上小睡，我们坐在甲板上看书，将一切杂事抛开，心情慢慢放松下来。

钓鱼原来这么考耐性，不下十支钓竿，到晚餐后还没半条鱼上钓，大伙不仅有点失望。晚上八点，周围暗得伸手不见五指，除了虫声，就只有我们一船人在聊天。

突然一只钓竿抖一抖后猛然往下弯。阿顺喊：“有鱼上钓了！”等了大半天终于有收获了，大伙的心情即紧张又兴奋！一尾重达五公斤的关刀鱼被拉上船，流线型的的身躯活力十足，银色的鳞片在微弱灯光下显得特别耀眼。将鱼放入冰桶后，阿顺开了一瓶红酒庆祝。接下来几天钓到不少多曼鱼、水马骝、白须公、南邦鱼。

晚上睡觉时，雨点滴滴答答打在船顶的锌片上，凉风由没有遮挡的窗口吹入，在这天然环境下虽然没有舒服的床铺，只有简单的海绵睡垫，我们却睡得特别香甜。

没有工作压力，没有电话、电视、电脑，早上睡到自然醒，不必烹调，吃饱就做自己爱做的事，让身心放松，在肯逸湖四天行程让我们充分充电，回来后有更加足够的经精力面对生活。

Fish-head Braised Teochew-Style

Our friend - Master B E Loh is a Teochew by dialect and simply loves Teochew food. The essence of Teochew cooking lies in using fresh seafood and the simplest ingredients to retain the original integrity of the catch. As in China, their homeland had access to the sea and its produce, Teochews are aware of how fresh quality, texture, flavour should be.

Master Loh wanted to show us a place which serves authentic Teochew fish-head. An opportunity came and we visited this place known as Restoran Chiew Sang situated in a suburb of University Garden, Petaling Jaya.

It may lacked the sophiscation but the unassuming restaurant located centre place among a row of old shops was packed at lunchtime and can be a popular hangout for many regular customers. Master Loh's friend, William Lee, is another foodie who has given this place his stamp of approval. He told us that this young boss used to helped his father at the bak-kut-teh shop in SS2 several years back. He decided to venture out and started this eatery a couple of years ago. Regulars keep coming back for the no-frills unpretentiously good food. Repeat customers like his quality control of ingredients and consistently good food at reasonable pricing.

Master Loh stressed that Teochew Bak-Kut-Teh and Fish-Head Braised Teochew-Style are two signature points we must not missed out on. The little secret weapon used are those toasted brownish blackish garlic. This type of garlic has a strong smoky aroma but once scalded and sun-dried, it permeates meat, giving it a special perfumed fragrance.

Teochew Bak-Kut-Teh is less herbal compared to the Hokkien version. Our Teochew boss could really whip up a pot of tasty brew. Pig's trotter, pork ribs retained their natural flavour and the stock sweetened with the usage of the toasted garlic. The fish-head dish consisted of fresh garoupa head, braised with minced ginger, toasted garlic, taucheo, red chillies and a lot of other secret ingredients. This dish doesn't look pretty but it was flavourful. The gravy was not too savoury and you can even take it without white rice. And if you can still pack it in, try their Teochew-Steamed Fish, Teochew-Braised Pig's Trotter, Teochew Ham Choy, Lalal and others.

I am happy to note, my throat did not feel parched after the meal which is an indication, they did not use two handfuls of MSG.

罗木勇是潮州人，对潮州美食自然有一股情意结。潮州人对海鲜情有独钟，也很挑剔，不新鲜的别提，处理方式不对或味道太重的别介绍。他推荐一间八打灵再也招牌打着肉骨茶，食客却是为了焖鱼头而来的“新朝生肉骨茶”餐馆。

餐馆在一排老店的中间单位，这里并非旺区，没有过路客，然而中午到达时座无虚席，这些食客都是特地驱车来用餐。罗木勇的朋友李保兴是这里的常客，他说：「年轻的潮州老板以前协助父亲在SS2经营肉骨茶，数年前在SS3现址自立门户，亲自负责烹调工作，所以不论是材料选择、酱料配搭及火喉均拿捏的很准，保持一贯味道。」

罗木勇强调：「 潮州肉骨茶及潮州焖鱼头是这里的招牌菜。他们的秘密武器是火蒜，火蒜原本味道带涩，经热水烫过晒干，可以去涩提鲜，食物味道更加可口。」

肉骨茶原本是本地福建人的专长，在善于改变的老板手里成为该餐馆镇店招牌菜，以火蒜熬的汤底比一般肉骨茶来得清淡，猪脚及排骨都还保留原有的肉香，粉肠软硬适中。新鲜石斑鱼头、姜茸、火蒜茸、面豉、红辣椒等多种香料调味的潮州焖鱼头其貌不扬，看似很咸入口却咸淡适中，即使不配饭也能下肚。

其他选择有潮州蒸鱼、潮州卤猪脚、潮州咸菜、啦啦等。好吃的食物有时调味料下得太重，让人不断喝水，我们吃后不感口渴。


新朝生肉骨茶
Restoran Chiew Sang
15, Jalan SS 3/37,
University Garden, 47300 PJ
Tel: 012-234 1136

Business Hours:
Monday-Sunday 7.30am - 2pm
Saturday & Sunday 6pm - 9pm