Street Food : Bak-Kut-Teh (Part 1) - Y3K Recipes issue no.65 (3/4-2012)

Bak-Kut-Teh Trail in Klang

by Contributor - Irene Chua

Mr Richard Er and wife Catherine Chia visited me in Klang and our conversation centered on the most popular Bak-Kut-Teh eateries in Klang. It can be quite a task to unravel of who’s the best as each individual has his or her own discretion.

Of course we gave the challenge to our Feng Shui Master B. E. Loh who is a foodie at heart. He may not be a Klang resident but over the past 20 to 30 years, he has had been savouring this brew very, very often.

Gastronomically speaking, Klang is hugely famous for seafood and Bak-Kut-Teh. Klangites are generally Hokkiens so the soup is darker in colour and often served with an oily rice. But in Kuala Lumpur, Johor or Singapore, white rice goes well with a light soup and has a more Teochew flavour.

Many people embroiled in the issue of how Bak-Kut-Teh originated. The pioneer could be the old Lee Boon who served a traditional home-town pork soup with fried lard rice. Some coolies (labourers) brought in some herbs and in it went into the porky soup. The new recipe was born and underwent many changes later on to become the herbal soup of today. It has become very much a sought after food for many tourists.

Originally the different huge cuts of meat were served in big bowls individually with the herbal soup and rice separately. But slowly over the years, the claypot combination was introduced with vegetables, beancurd, offals and mushrooms being packed into a lighter version herbal stock. And recently the Dry Bak-Kut-Teh version was created thus a new specialty has been added on.

There may be well over 400 plus stalls selling this herbal soup all over Klang area. Isn’t that rather difficult to track down who serves a better herbal soup.

Well, Bak-Kut-Teh range can be divided into different sections of the town:

1. Taman Rashna and Taman Berkeley.

2. Jalan Besar ( under the bridge or next to the police station). There are two shops here wanting to be known as the Bak-Kut-Teh pioneer.

3. Jalan Teluk Pulai.

4. Pandamaran New Village.

If you want something good, follow Master Loh on his gastronomy Bak-Kut-Teh trail from the next Y3k issue onwards.

食尚玩家台湾小食自由行 Free & easy taiwan eatery tour

20/2/2011(星期日)
下午两点二十分，由吉隆坡国际机场乘搭中华航空（CI722班机）直飞台北。傍晚七点抵达目的地台北桃园机场，台湾旅行社代表在出境出接待我们，直奔台北市三星级“城美酒店”入宿。

21/2/2011(星期一)
在酒店用过简单早餐，早上八点旅行社代表到酒店接我们出发。今天的行程比较轻松，早上到位于台湾岛北端的“基隆港”，这里是台湾的海洋渔业基地。接着到“野柳地质公园”，这里的地质受海蚀风化形成柔感线条美，岩石的纹理更是特别。海蚀与风化等力量下，经千百万年的交互作用，千姿百态、鬼斧神工的海岸景观，是北台湾最富盛名的地形景观。

下午，我们继续往另一个游客最爱的景点--九份。这里早期因为盛产金矿而兴盛，矿坑挖掘殆尽後从而没落。1990年代後，因电影《悲情城市》一片於九份取景，九份的独特旧式建筑、坡地以及风情，透过此片而吸引国内外的注目，也为此小镇重新带来生机，目前已经成为一个很受欢迎的观光景点。

22/2/2011(星期二)：
台湾小食历史悠久，种类繁多，价格大众化。今天是这次行程的主要目的，早上九点踏着电视节目《食尚玩家》的足迹，到老旧却充满活力的“东门市场”寻小食。

短短几个小时品尝十家推荐小食，能够在此立足数十年，各有所长。下午一点离开东门市场，前往乌来看土族表演，晚上再到龙山寺、华西街及101大厦，充实又满足的一天。

23/2/2011 （星期三）
清晨五点由酒店出发，乘搭早上八点二十分起飞的航班CI721回吉隆坡，结束四天三夜的“食尚玩家台湾小食自由行”。感谢马来西亚亲善旅游有限公司精心策划，让这次的行程顺利完成。

1) 港点名店：兴记食品
这一家店经营3代50多年，林青霞的心头爱。不论是人气或规模都是数一数二，算得上是东门市场的指标名店。港式点心、水饺、包子馒头、叉烧酥、萝卜糕、烧卖等港式点心，口味和用料不输茶楼，价格大众化。

2) 罗妈妈米粉汤
台北市金山南路1段144号旁巷子进入
市场地址：台北市信义路二段81号
电话：02-2351-3352
营业时间是从早上7点到下午3点

罗妈妈的米粉汤采用细米粉，汤头以黑毛猪的大骨熬四五个小时，再混合煮猪内脏的汤，加上客家风味油葱，米粉汤已经煮软了而且入味；滋味鲜甜。吃米粉汤，少不了要来几盘土猪的内脏黑白切（黑管是猪肚，白管是猪心上面的大血管）。

罗妈妈教大家一招，把桌上的蒜茸酱油、辣椒酱、客家醋和酱油膏调在一起，沾黑白切吃，美味程度又连升三级喔!另一种招牌小食是猪肺，罗妈妈说经常全市场肉摊的猪肺都被他拿光了，还不够卖呢！

3) 烧腊-东门鸭庄
在此屹立不摇28年，很多东门伯伯阿姨很自豪说这家是他们这辈子吃过最好吃的烧腊店。

老板说他们选的肉以及用料，质量都是用最高级的，加上细心的料理才会这么好吃，像招牌的烤鸭，要选90天大成熟的鸭子，用八九种香料腌过，吊起来风干一天再烤，所以吃起来是腊味足、皮酥脆。

4) 利隆饼店
营业时间是从
早上7点到下午1点半

老板娘从小就在西门町的中华商场学做饼，而中华商场走入历史后，搬来东门市场也经营了21年。虽然店面狭小、招牌老旧，地点又在市场最深处，大叔大婶大包小包的狂扫货，还有网友说，有时没打电话先预订就来现场买，还会空手而回呢！

5) 福州鱼丸汤-义芳鱼丸店
开了40多年的福州鱼丸名店，听说连烹饪大师傅培梅老师生前也是老主顾。每天老板娘在店门口现包、现煮、现卖。

福州鱼丸最经典的就是重口味的肉馅与Q弹的外皮，老板娘说这丸子里包的是猪后腿肉、虾仁、荸荠、葱花混合成的内馅，而皮是用海鳗鱼和番薯粉打成鱼浆做成，一咬开，淡淡的油气鲜香从丸子里蹦出来。

6) 荣昌油炸食品
营业时间：8AM-1PM（周一休息）
位于大路边，古早味的台湾炸料，种类繁多。有酸菜丸、菜炸、红糟肉、红糟鳗、炸排骨、炸旗鱼、芋头丸、鸡卷、甜不辣。

7) 传统小吃 赤肉羹+鲁肉饭
从早上8点开到晚上7点，三餐时段全都包中间不休息。

立足25年，凭的就是料多味美！

老板说他们的肉燥是用切碎的三层肉和猪皮下去熬，而且有撇掉多余的油，所以卤肉饭吃起来香而不腻。

肉羹汤用上好的胛心肉，沾裹用鲨鱼和旗鱼打制的鱼浆，加上笋丝、柴鱼片及香菇，老板亲手捏制，现煮现卖。

8) 老牌甘蔗汁
台湾盛产甘蔗，这家“老牌甘蔗汁”小摊已经在市场开了40多年，一个古早味的冰柜是生招牌，最特别的是甘蔗汁加柠檬汁。

9) 芝麻酱烧饼-清真马叔饼铺
营业时间是早上7点半到下午4点（周五休息）

来到东门市场绝对不能错过这家“清真马叔饼铺”。这家芝麻酱烧饼开了将近50年。

芝麻酱烧饼香味从旧旧的小屋子传出来。以手工制作的烧饼，咖啡色的外皮沾满白芝麻粒，馅料有香浓的芝麻酱和花椒粉。煎过后再放进烤箱烘烤，味道特别香。牛腱肉白白净净，酱香浓郁没有腥味，夹进烧饼一起吃最适宜。如果怕单吃烧饼会口干，可以点一杯桂花酸梅汤喝!

10) 东门豆花
营业时间是从早上7点半到下午两点半

午饭时间和假日也是常客满的豆花店。只卖冰豆浆、冰豆花和加了姜汁的热豆花，33年来从一碗3元卖到30元!老板凌晨起床亲自磨豆浆煮豆花，当天做当天卖绝不放隔夜，纯手工纯豆浆制作，没有掺豆浆粉、洋菜粉、香料、防腐剂，不会轻轻一搅就支离破碎。配上熬煮了3个多小时的花生及炒过的纯二砂糖熬煮的糖水，自然香甜。

有意参与者请联络：马来西亚亲善旅游有限公司
MALAYSIA HARMONY TOUR & TRAVEL SDN BHD
Tel: 03-2144 5186/ 2143 3970 Fax: 03-2142 6697
www.12fly.com.my & www.malaysianharmony.com.my

20-02-2011 (Sunday)
We left KLIA by China Airlines and arrived at Taoyuan Airport around
7p.m. The Taiwan tour coordinator greeted and guided us to hotel.

21-02-2011 (Monday)
It was a simple breakfast at the hotel before guide took us on morning tour to Keelung, known for its marine life. And next to Yehliu Geopark, famous for beautiful rock formation.

Afternoon was meant for a tour of Jiufen, a town built along a hilly range and noted for its gold mines. The industry has lost its lustre and shine and it was during 1990, that the beauty of this place was captured in a film. Attention was soon focused on it and there was no turning back in popularity.

22-02-2011 (Tuesday)
We tried many snacks at East Gate Market in Taipei.

Our stomachs heaved with food as we made our way to Longshansi temple, the Wah Si Market and Taipei 101.

23-02-2011 (Wednesday)
Left the hotel early morning at 5a.m. for an early flight back to Malaysia. Thank goodness there's a gym nearby home for all the foodie track we have sampled.

1) Hong Kong dimsum
Hong Kong dimsum at Hing Kee did offer authentic usual yum char fare.

2) Loh Mama Meehoon Soup
The bowl of fine meehoon had a soup base using black skin pig bones as an ingredient which was simmered for four to five hours, and next offals were added in. This must be a Hakka dish as it was accompanied with side dishes of pig's tripe and pig's heart slices.

The trick to this noodle dish was to mixed in the garlic sauce, chilli sauce, Hakka vinegar and soy sauce thickener together. This condiment went down well with us as it gave the dish an extra ooomph.

3) Roast ducks
This reputable 28 year-old roast meat shop offered us the best tasting roast ducks. Apart from roasted intestines, they served liver filling intestines, you can be assured of consistency and quality, an important hallmark ingredient here.

4) Spring onion pancake
A landmark highlight here was the spring onion pancake. You could taste the beautiful filling of lean meat, cabbage, spring onions and superior stock being very flavourful filling or try the other variety of carrot shreds, prawns or white radish shreds and chives, which could be just as delightful.

5) The Fookchow fishballs
The Fookchow fishballs are done daily so freshness can be assured. The skins are made form eel flesh coupled with sweet potato flour whilst filling comprised of lean pork, prawns, Chinese waterchestnuts, spring onions.

6) Deep-fried snacks
Many varieties of traditional Taiwanese deep-fried snacks sold here.

7) Meat broth & meaty braised rice
How could we missed out on traditional snack like truly impressive meat broth and meaty braised rice which were not oily but very flavourful. Braised duck eggs, pig's blood curd cake, oiled beancurd could have you hanging around asking for more.

8) Sugar-cane juice
This 40 years-old drink of sugar-cane juice with lemonade was worth a try.

9) Muslim flaky skin biscuits
Muslim snack of sesame seed paste baked flaky skin biscuit's with a version of minced beef as filling was best enjoyed with a sour plum drink mixed with gui hua flower.

10) Taufoo fah
Home-made taufoo fah was done with no preservatives and had a smooth taste drenched with syrup and softened nuts topping.

For more information, please contact:
MALAYSIA HARMONY TOUR & TRAVEL SDN BHD
Tel: 03-2144 5186/ 2143 3970 Fax: 03-2142 6697
www.12fly.com.my & www.malaysianharmony.com.my

Fish-head Braised Teochew-Style

Our friend - Master B E Loh is a Teochew by dialect and simply loves Teochew food. The essence of Teochew cooking lies in using fresh seafood and the simplest ingredients to retain the original integrity of the catch. As in China, their homeland had access to the sea and its produce, Teochews are aware of how fresh quality, texture, flavour should be.

Master Loh wanted to show us a place which serves authentic Teochew fish-head. An opportunity came and we visited this place known as Restoran Chiew Sang situated in a suburb of University Garden, Petaling Jaya.

It may lacked the sophiscation but the unassuming restaurant located centre place among a row of old shops was packed at lunchtime and can be a popular hangout for many regular customers. Master Loh's friend, William Lee, is another foodie who has given this place his stamp of approval. He told us that this young boss used to helped his father at the bak-kut-teh shop in SS2 several years back. He decided to venture out and started this eatery a couple of years ago. Regulars keep coming back for the no-frills unpretentiously good food. Repeat customers like his quality control of ingredients and consistently good food at reasonable pricing.

Master Loh stressed that Teochew Bak-Kut-Teh and Fish-Head Braised Teochew-Style are two signature points we must not missed out on. The little secret weapon used are those toasted brownish blackish garlic. This type of garlic has a strong smoky aroma but once scalded and sun-dried, it permeates meat, giving it a special perfumed fragrance.

Teochew Bak-Kut-Teh is less herbal compared to the Hokkien version. Our Teochew boss could really whip up a pot of tasty brew. Pig's trotter, pork ribs retained their natural flavour and the stock sweetened with the usage of the toasted garlic. The fish-head dish consisted of fresh garoupa head, braised with minced ginger, toasted garlic, taucheo, red chillies and a lot of other secret ingredients. This dish doesn't look pretty but it was flavourful. The gravy was not too savoury and you can even take it without white rice. And if you can still pack it in, try their Teochew-Steamed Fish, Teochew-Braised Pig's Trotter, Teochew Ham Choy, Lalal and others.

I am happy to note, my throat did not feel parched after the meal which is an indication, they did not use two handfuls of MSG.

罗木勇是潮州人，对潮州美食自然有一股情意结。潮州人对海鲜情有独钟，也很挑剔，不新鲜的别提，处理方式不对或味道太重的别介绍。他推荐一间八打灵再也招牌打着肉骨茶，食客却是为了焖鱼头而来的“新朝生肉骨茶”餐馆。

餐馆在一排老店的中间单位，这里并非旺区，没有过路客，然而中午到达时座无虚席，这些食客都是特地驱车来用餐。罗木勇的朋友李保兴是这里的常客，他说：「年轻的潮州老板以前协助父亲在SS2经营肉骨茶，数年前在SS3现址自立门户，亲自负责烹调工作，所以不论是材料选择、酱料配搭及火喉均拿捏的很准，保持一贯味道。」

罗木勇强调：「 潮州肉骨茶及潮州焖鱼头是这里的招牌菜。他们的秘密武器是火蒜，火蒜原本味道带涩，经热水烫过晒干，可以去涩提鲜，食物味道更加可口。」

肉骨茶原本是本地福建人的专长，在善于改变的老板手里成为该餐馆镇店招牌菜，以火蒜熬的汤底比一般肉骨茶来得清淡，猪脚及排骨都还保留原有的肉香，粉肠软硬适中。新鲜石斑鱼头、姜茸、火蒜茸、面豉、红辣椒等多种香料调味的潮州焖鱼头其貌不扬，看似很咸入口却咸淡适中，即使不配饭也能下肚。

其他选择有潮州蒸鱼、潮州卤猪脚、潮州咸菜、啦啦等。好吃的食物有时调味料下得太重，让人不断喝水，我们吃后不感口渴。


新朝生肉骨茶
Restoran Chiew Sang
15, Jalan SS 3/37,
University Garden, 47300 PJ
Tel: 012-234 1136

Business Hours:
Monday-Sunday 7.30am - 2pm
Saturday & Sunday 6pm - 9pm

新寿活尝河鲜Freshwater Fish Above Par in Sauk

淡水西刀鱼/关刀鱼 Ikan Belida(Grey Feather Back)


新寿活尝河鲜

经风水大师罗木勇曾数次向我们提起霹雳州一个小镇“新寿活”，他说：「这里的淡水西刀鱼滑全国最好！」

早上九点半由吉隆坡出发，取道E1高速公路北上新寿活。十一点在美罗的“品珍”享用早餐后，续程到江沙（大约走了240公里路）。离开高速公路后转入通往宜力的76号公路，大约再走27公里即到达新寿活，刚好是午餐时间。

老街冷气海鲜饭店在这里营业已经十一年，罗木勇是这里的常客。老板娘珍姐热情接待，让人宾至如归。我们指定要一道“西刀鱼滑”，其他菜式由老板娘推荐。

不到五分钟时间，热腾腾的第一道菜“西刀鱼滑拌豆腐”即端上桌。西刀鱼滑以炸熟及烫熟两种方法处理，我们先试一口加上少许调味及蒜油，烫熟的鱼滑。咬下去没有一般鱼滑的弹口，感觉软软地没有弹性，口中充满清淡新鲜的鱼味，令我们少有的惊喜！炸熟的鱼滑沾辣椒酱吃，另有一种风味。这碟“西刀鱼滑拌豆腐”让我们有不虚此行的感觉。

罗先生进一步说：「新寿活靠近霹雳河，水产丰富。这里除了好吃的西刀鱼滑之外，还有野生河鱼。」只见白板上写着独木狸、加拉鱼、苏丹鱼、林哥鱼、水马骝、丁加兰、鲶鱼等，难怪吸引那么多喜欢吃野生河鱼的饕客不远千里而来。接下来的“酱蒸西刀鱼腩”取整只鱼最幼滑的肚子部分切块蒸熟后淋上自制冬炎酱，鲜甜的鱼腩肉与惹味的酱汁配搭，回味无穷。“酱蒸鲶鱼腩”将鲶鱼最幼滑的鱼肚部分淋上酱料，蒸熟后铺上嫩姜丝及小辣椒，这是最传统的河鱼处理法，可以感受到其鲜甜，一点脂肪都没有。“亚参鲶鱼头”则是将鲶鱼头蒸熟后淋上有点酸的亚参酱，鱼肉厚实弹口。它口中密密麻麻的利齿依然锋利，然而河中恶霸如今已成为盘中餐。

除了河鱼，“野生田鸡”也深受食客欢迎。活生生的田鸡即叫即处理，以瓦煲上桌，吱吱作响香味四溢。田鸡肉虽不多唯胜在鲜嫩清甜，一般人工饲养的牛蛙根本无法比较。这一餐所费RM200，物有所值。

如果你对对人工饲养的淡水鱼泥味反感？到新寿活这间“老街冷气海鲜饭店”一试野生河鱼，相信你会改观。


Freshwater Fish Above Par in Sauk
Freshwater Fish Above Par in Sauk. Our foodie friend - Master Loh was home from overseas taking a break from his working stint. As usual, it was another round of food experience. This time he chose Sauk, a village in the province of Kuala Kangsar which has gained a name for its quality Ikan Belida (Grey Feather Back) or nicknamed in Chinese as "Guan Dao Yee" as the shape of the fish bore a resemblance to the sword used by legendary figure "Guan Kung".

Journeying from Kuala Lumpur at 9.30 a.m that morning using the main approach to Perak via E1 Expressway, our plan was to reach Bidor for breakfast. We did it at 11 a.m. and continued our travel to the royal town of Kuala Kangsar (done 240km route). Out of the expressway, we travelled on a scenic route heading to Grik for 27km before reaching Sauk at lunchtime.

Master Loh is a regular at Lau Kai Air-Cond Restaurant. This 11 year old restaurant may not hold onto a specific menu. Hungry after a long drive, we left the ordering to friendly lady boss Law Lai Wah, but stressed on a dish of "Fishpaste Balls". What was really amazing was the speed the food arrived. Less than five minutes after our food order was made, the first dish of "Ikan Belida Fishpaste Balls With Beancurd" came. It may not have the type of bounce found in most commercialized fishpaste but the natural sweet fish taste complimented out tastebuds. According to Master Loh, the village of Sauk is located near the Perak River, giving the place an abundance of freshwater fish. The white board on the wall stated the restaurant do serve a good range of fish like Temoleh, Kelah, Sultan Fish, Bamboo Fish, Sebarau, Tenggalan, Ikan Tapah etc... This fishy reason has drawn locals as well as outstation patrons to dine here as the place has very fresh produce.

Next dish was a "Saucy Tomyam Steamed Fish Belly". The sauce was a home-made tomyam paste. It was certainly a brilliant idea to have asked for lady boss's recommendation as the next dish of "Steamed Ikan Tapah With Sauce & Cili Padi" was a hit. The waiter brought out another dish of "Ikan Tapah Fish-head In Assam". We thought this was superior. I never knew Ikan Tapah could taste so good as I stared at the carnivorous-looking fish-head and gawked at the rows of sharp teeth. Our roles were reversed as sank my teeth into the fish-head. Wild paddy frogs had such a succulent taste, a far cry from those bred for the table. Our lunch of several good dishes came up to RM200.00. Of course we don't mind the cost as good deals cannot get better than this!

If you need a break eating muddy tasting pond bred freshwater fish, come to Sauk to see the real Mc Coy. Exiting from the restaurant, we wanted to tell everyone, "Long live freshwater fish".


平静的“新寿活”新村有五家打着河鱼为号召的餐馆。
In Sauk's village, there are five restaurants selling freshwater fish.

热情的老板娘珍姐 Lady boss Law Lai Wah is a bubbly person.

西刀鱼滑拌豆腐 Freshwater fish - Ikan Belida - A dish of ikan belida fishpaste balls with beancurd.

酱蒸鲶鱼腩 Steamed Ikan Tapah With Sauce & Cili Padi.

酱蒸西刀鱼腩 Taucheo steamed fish belly.

野生田鸡 Wild paddy frogs taste good.

亚参鲶鱼头 Sourish Assam Ikan Tapah Fish-head.


老街冷气海鲜饭店 Lau Kai Air-Cond Restaurant
44-45, Jalan Besarm, 33500 Sauk, Kuala Kangsar. Tel: 05-7511615
Business Hours: 12pm - 9.00pm Close on alternate Thursdays.

到巴冬看候鸟吃亚参辣椒鱼 See Migratory Birds Try Parit Jawa's Ikan Assam Pedas

巴冬位于柔佛州麻坡市区以南约15公里The little town of Parit Jawa in Johor lies approximately 15 km south of Muar.


巴冬海口渔村 Entrance to Parit Jawa Pantai Leka

渔村入口处 Welcome to this fishing place


村民捕鱼为生 Everyone seeks a living in fishing

年尾涨潮时，海水会淹上岸 Every year end, waters splash up ashore during high tide

小秃鹳(候鸟) Lesser Adjutant (migratory bird)

制做鱼笼的村民 Villagers making fish traps

谢宋美、黄美淋、刘绍荣及ALAN
Catherine with the restaurant bosses and Alan

亚参辣椒鱼Ikan Assam Pedas dish


传统潮州菜“旺鱼” Traditional Teochew "Wang He"

乌达乌达 Otak-otak, the famous snack

“蚝煎蛋”是传统潮州小食 Or-chien is a Teochew snack

煎龙舌Fried sole fish

苏冬虾臭豆 Sotong and Prawn Fried With Petai

到巴冬看候鸟吃亚参辣椒鱼

巴冬位于柔佛州麻坡市区以南约15公里，巴冬海口渔村离开巴冬市区约一公里。这渔村虽然很小，然而却因为这里是柔佛州三个候鸟栖息地之一，每年到这里过冬的候鸟吸引不少爱鸟一族到这里观赏及拍摄它们的生态，小秃鹳是他们的焦点，每逢海水退潮时，这些小秃鹳在沼泽中觅食，小螃蟹、小鱼、水蛇等都是它们的食物。

除了观赏候鸟，巴冬另一闻名之处在于“亚参辣椒鱼”，这里以“亚参辣椒鱼”作号召的餐馆不少于十间（不包括友族经营的餐馆及摊档）。

ALAN向我们推荐一家历史悠久（1980年开始），号称当时首创“亚参辣椒鱼”的“海景亚参鱼餐室”。目前由第二代传人刘绍荣负责。味道酸中带辣的“亚参辣椒鱼”大多以红鲷或马友鱼作为主料，以白饭配搭最适合，让嗜辣的食客欲罢不能。除了“亚参辣椒鱼”之外，喜欢辣的食客绝对不能错过乌达乌达这种麻坡最受欢迎的小食，以及令你回味的苏冬虾臭豆。不辣的食物有“蚝煎蛋”传统潮州小食，“煎龙舌”等。

老板特地拿出一道“不卖”的传统潮州菜“旺鱼”。他说：「处理这道菜需要三天。将鱼、三层肉、菜脯、辣椒干、小辣椒、亚参、蒜头及参末一起放入锅中再加水，开大火煮滚后转小火焖三至四个小时，熄火盖着焖两个小时，再重复步骤六次才完成。」

这道菜没有卖像，然而鱼肉口感好像罐头鲮鱼般，没有入口即化，独特的香味在口中爆开。三层肉入口即化，蒜头则吸收了鱼与肉的精华。这道特色准备时间长，老板一般只是煮了让自己解馋，有时则会拿出招待长客。如果到这里用餐，别忘了问看有“旺鱼”吗！


See Migratory Birds Try Parit Jawa's Ikan Assam Pedas
The little town of Parit Jawa in Johor lies approximately 15 km south of Muar. We explored the coastal part known as Parit Jawa Pantai Leka situated one km away from town. Well, the latest product in the tourism map here is the range of migratory birds making yearly homage as they escape the harsh cold winters of home. Each season sees many species of birds. Incidentally, three spots in Johor have become their environmental sanctuary and all being the ideal places for bird watchers.

You can't deny the beauty of the lesser adjutant as these birds clot the shallow waters during low tide, wading in to seek food. Baby crab, small fishes or even sea snakes make a fanciful meal for them. But regulars to this area claimed that another attraction should be the famous dish of "Ikan Assam Pedas".

All over, we counted nothing less tan 10 shops selling the same dish. The number excludes eating shops and stalls managed by Muslims. Alan Chong of Wonder Way recommended us to try this dish at certain restaurant nearby. Strait View Restoran which started its operation in 1980 must be the pioneer here serving this dish. Now this place is run by the second generation of the family by Lau Sio Yong.

Ikan Assam Pedas came with a real sourish and spicy taste. Main ingredient is a choice of either a red snapper or macke ral (kurau) and obviously the gravy goes well with white rice. Another snack unique to the community is the Johor "Otak-otak". Other simple dishes of "Sotong and Prawn Fried With Petai" or the non-spicy snack "Or-chien" were both tasty. Another simple snack plate of traditional Teochew food "Fried Sole Fish" made its way to our table.

Mr.Lau offered us his special dish cooked and reserved for family members, extras may be sold to regular patrons. It can be classified as a heritage Teochew food as this fare cannot be easily found anywhere. Cooking "Wang He" is a time-consuming process as the total preparation and cooking time needed three days. Let me take you through the process. Fish, belly pork, choy poh, dried chillies, cili padi, assam pulp and garlic were combined into a pot filled with water. Contents were cooked over high heat till it reached a boiling point. At this stage, the heat will be lowered and contents continued to be braised for another three to four hours. The heat will be turned off but the pot remained covered for another two hours. The whole tedious process will be repeated six times more.

While I tasted the dish, it cannot be called spectacular but rather as something unusual. Fish tasted similar to canned dace (leng yee), not very soft in texture but the aroma filled my mouth. Belly pork has come to a melting degree but it was the garlic that won my heart. It soaked up all the fish and meat flavours.

If you fancy something out of the ordinary, ask the Laus. We will try it again, next time perhaps...!


海景亚参鱼餐室 STRAITVIEW RESTORAN
PKA 52-A, Parit Jawa Pantai, 84150 Parit Jawa, Muar, Johor.
Tel: 06-987 5388
Close on Mondays (except public holidays)

直凉大吃会 Superfood Feast in Triang

李生（李韩发）与黄秋凤夫妇处理鲍鱼的功夫不赖。
Mr. & Mrs. Lee are quite deft at handling abalones cooking.



五小碟有人参鲜虫草、蜜汁火方、青椒皮蛋、龙湫蟠龙鳝及烤乳猪
An appetizer section of five Chinese starters.



“法海蒲团鱼翅盅”
Signature dish of Sharksfin In Tureen.



“清蒸巴丁河鱼皇”
Patin Munchong Plain-Steamed.

李生来电邮纠正: "现在才注意到当天大吃会里的巴丁鱼是Ikan Patin Buah（一公斤$85) 被误志为Ikan Patin Munchong(一公斤本钱$300-$320)".下图为我们2003年一月(Y3K第10期)在李生的餐馆所拍摄的正牌河鱼皇"巴丁文中".
Mr. Lee inform us: "The fish served on that day was Ikan Patin Buah, but mistaken as Ikan Patin Munchong." Following is the Ikan Patin Munchong shot in January 2003 "Y3K Recipes" issue no.10.





金银鲍脯秃参蹄筋盘
Unique Seafood With Dual Tendons.


龙袍加身鲍鱼饭
Pumpkin Rice Topped With Abalone.


麒麟星斑如意卷
Garoupa Fish Rolls.


姜汁鱼嘴冻花胶
Ginger Juice Sharks’ Lips Chilled Fish Maws.


大漠风沙香笋鹿肉
Ostrich Meat, Asparagus, Venison Fried With Garlic.


“芒汁白玉凉粿条”及“金砖银条黑珍珠”
Mango Sauce White Jelly and Black Glutinous Rice Paired With Pumpkin Taro Strips.



直凉李生广邀

行家聚集一堂

2009年4月6日晚上七时，位于彭亨州一个偏僻小镇--直凉突然间变得热闹起来，来自全马各地的名牌车将“李生海鲜酒家”前宽阔的停车场挤得水泄不通。餐馆老板、供应商、食家不远千里而来，为的是一尝李生夫妇特地为行家而设的宴会，每桌RM1,680。

李生说：「原本只打算宴请三五桌，怎知消息一传出，各地行家不断来电定位，结果超出预算许多，接到十八桌我们就停止接受定单了!」

晚宴以五小碟的开胃菜掀开序幕，计有“人参鲜虫草”、“蜜汁火方”、“青椒皮蛋”、“龙湫蟠龙鳝”及“烤乳猪”。接着推出该餐馆大受欢迎的招牌菜“法海蒲团鱼翅盅”，鲍翅、干贝等将小盅堆的满满的，炖至棉烂的冬瓜入口即化，令人回味无穷。彭亨河盛产巴丁鱼，而“巴丁文中”是巴丁鱼之中最名贵的一种，被誉为河鱼皇。第三道“清蒸巴丁河鱼皇”小则一公斤、大则将五六公斤重的巴丁鱼切片。汤汁清甜可口、肉质幼滑、鱼腩薄薄的脂肪肥而不腻，鱼皮富有弹性，我们给予极高评价！

“金银鲍脯秃参蹄筋盘”采用干螺头、鲍鱼丝、鹿筋、猪脚筋、秃参等红烧焖熟，最难得的是里面还有切丁的鲸鱼皮。李生强调：「这些鲸鱼皮是以前留下的，现在已经无法获得。」

宴会进行至这里，我们已经半饱。李生特地带我到厨房参观为他这次大吃会所准备的惊喜--“龙袍加身鲍鱼饭”。一盅盅金瓜焖饭上置一只大蚝干，猛火炖至绵烂后由蒸笼取出，李生夫妻俩将一个个斗大的鲍鱼放在饭上，再淋上少许鲍汁，单是这种排场已经令人赞叹！经过多年的磨练及改进，李生处理鲍鱼的功夫已经不可同日而语，不论是卖相、口感、味道皆达到大酒家的要求。大家将鲍鱼吃完，留下大半盅焖饭，非常满足。

然而，宴会还没来到尾声。接下来的“麒麟星斑如意卷”（麒麟蒸红星斑及麻鱼鳔）、“姜汁鱼嘴冻花胶”（鲨鱼嘴及花胶公）、“大漠风沙香笋鹿肉”（干香鸵鸟肉及蒜子香笋鹿肉），我们只能够夹一小片品尝味道。

最后的甜品“芒汁白玉凉粿条”及“金砖银条黑珍珠”，前者引起众行家的兴趣，争相向李生询问制做方法。李生大方地公开做法：「以一平汤匙粉加入1.5公升班兰叶煮的水、糖、及少许盐煮滚，熄火后再加入120毫升鲜奶调色，倒在方盘内以风扇吹冷至凝结，卷起成条状后切段，再淋上以新鲜芒果及白糖打烂的芒果浆即可。」相信不久的将来，各地餐馆将会推出这道别致的甜品。
晚上十一点，大家带着满足的笑容向李生告别，宾主尽欢。

最新消息:
另一场<直凉大吃会>将于10-8-2009(星期一)晚上七点举办,每席RM1,200(十个人).欢迎有兴趣参与者向李生报名或询问详情(014-5001599).

Superfood Feast in Triang
On 6-4-2009 towards dinner time, a big crowd filled Restoran Lee Keng Sang, Triang. This is a small town in Pahang and many chefs, food suppliers and foodies came to lend support to a food event jointly organised by Mr. & Mrs. Lee Hang Huat (owners of the restaurant). This nine-course menu came to RM1,680 per table.

Mr. Lee had initially started the idea of a food gathering amongst some chefs. What started as between three to five tables soon ended with a figure of 18 tables as word of mouth spreaded fast. Probably many top hats of this culinary industry have heard of Lee’s nature as he has an interest in preserving the authenticity and traditions of food, and his cooking is designed to bring out the best in many unusual ingredients used.

We were his guests and it was an evening of elegant food in a faraway town. The appetizer section comprised of five Chinese starters. A big platter had the spread of ginseng, fresh cordyceps, honey glazed ham, green capsicums century eggs, eel fantasy and roasted suckling pig pieces. Next round was sharksfin in individual soup tureen, highly recommended for divine taste as this is a signature dish of the restaurant. Of course the third dish was a fish – “Plain Steamed Ikan Patin Munchong”. As we know the nearby town of Temerloh in Pahang gained a nickname of “Bandar Ikan Patin”, so this pricey upriver fish must make its appearance at prestigious dinners. Small catch comes to one kilo but bigger ones are around five to six kilos. The fish tasted smooth with natural sweetness and had the right proportion of fats around the belly. I found the skin chewy and this dish certainly got the thumbs up.

Among the chef’s specialities came a dish of unique seafood with dual tendons. Dried topshells, abalone shreds, deer tendons, pigs’ tendons, processed sea cucumbers were braised together. Things got more exciting with the discovery of cubed whale’s skin. No, these are not new products but something kept away from old times. Being protected species, these rare finds are no longer available in the free market.

Actually by mid-course, I was feeling quite full. Mr. Lee took me to his restaurant’s kitchen. I watched the final preparation of the next dish – “Pumpkin Rice Topped With Abalone”. Tons of tureens filled with pumpkin rice were removed from a giant steamer. Every tureen of rice had a large-sized dried oyster buried in it. Then Lee and wife carefully topped in a piece of braised abalone on top of rice. Next, abalone braised sauce came spooned on surface. As I am always on the look out for new dining experiences, this rice dish has a sure hint of extravagance. The extra care taken in the preparation of the abalones was praiseworthy. His cooking skill has proven popular and gone from strength to strength.

Of course, no Chinese dinner would be complete without more seafood. A huge seven star garoupa fish came filleted and flesh done up in rolls. Another dish emerged - “Ginger Juice Sharks’ Lips And Chilled Fish Maws” did excite our palates. Final dish of the main course was a platter of “Ostrich Meat Fried With Garlic, Asparagus And Venison Slices”. It was yummy but I felt my seams could burst anytime, I took only a little.

Our meal came to a round end with dessert done on a high note, thanks to a new creation and it did caused a stir among other chefs. Mango sauce paired with white jelly tasted heavenly. A mound of black glutinous rice topped with strips of pumpkin and taro completed the picture. Done to perfection, the first part of the white jelly was a winner. Mr. Lee openly gave us the recipe’s concoction. You need one tablespoon of genuine konnyaku powder infused into 1.5 litres of pandan flavoured water. Bring this to a boil with a pinch of salt, some sugar and turn off heat when solution has really heated through. Stir in 120ml fresh milk. Pour the whole mixture into a square tray. Leave it to set with the aid of a fan blown directly over surface. Once it has turned firm, roll up and cut into pieces (like chee cheong fun). Pureed mango sauce mixed with white sugar will be poured as a topping. This dessert veers away from the usual Chinese influences. Such a delicious new creation may pave a way for a new dessert to bloom and I am quite certain that this dessert may be seen at many restaurants’ menus soon.

It was a delightful evening, a gathering of old friends, a firm handshake to new bond and of course our tastebuds tasted quality food.